Startrite 275 table saw question - Newbie

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onemanonelaptop

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Hi All,

I'm new here and relatively new to woodworking in general.

I have picked myself a startrite table saw which i love and i chose over a new dewalt 7485 josbite saw.
Ive attached a photo of the saw and wondered if anyone with a simliar saw could let me know what the elongated bars are for that ive hilghlighted in red..... in every pciture of this saw i can find those bars stop level with the end of the fnece rails, however on mine the stick out a lot further. I assume there must be a reason for this and its just evading me at this time.

Right now their only purpose seems to be to cause me injury when i walk past/around the saw... :)

Thankyou to anyone if they can shed some light here!
 

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I have one like that, it looks almost exactly the same but the part that's extended on yours finishes where it bolts to the round bar.
I guess it was optional. I think you could cut it off and file the end nicely.

As an owner of one of these, I highly recommend you get an overhead crown guard. It improves dust collection a lot and the riving knife mounted guard is incredibly annoying.
You still get a pile of shavings underneath but it stops a lot of the airborne fine stuff.


Ollie
 
Ah thankyou!! that makes sense.... although now i really want those rollers :)
Got one of these saws too! Which I've yet to bring into service. I was just about to suggest they might be for extentending the top surface for cutting large panels when I scrolled down and saw the alan sent you. I had no Idea this roller system existed. I aggree with looking to see if you can get some rollers before cutting them off. Failing that I'd use them as support to extend the surface area of your table top.
 
If you can’t get or make the rollers, I’d suggest trying to find a home for the extended bar; I’ve often come across orphaned bits for these (and other) saws, and I’ve come across people searching for the bits! Indeed, I might have the standard bars for that saw, somewhere.
 
I don't get the impression that bar is in anyway structural,
though I'd be interested in reading others opinions.
Here's a shot I have of the shorter fence rail, though worth noting there are two designs
of fence rails I've seen on this particular 275, which is known as the 275 DS on this manual

https://www.sharkbandsawblades.co.u...aw_handbooks/TA 275 275DS Handbook 16E WM.pdf
I can only guess the change was made to accommodate the rollers or something else, and no point in having two designs.
Would like to find that out if someone knows why.

Getting eager to have another round on this saw.
Have some fence issues, likely needs thread replaced, as it looses grip occasionally.
Need to sort out getting the fence parallel with blade when tilted at 45 mine skews (@deema mentioned before that there is adjustment for this)
Wanting to weld up a really solid floating crown guard. and make additional fence sleeves to suit the use of the crown guard.
Weld up some kit for making Shaw guards for trench cuts ala Roy Sutton safe wood machining on YT
Making some sort of outfeed, which I'm still thinking about...
It'd be nice to make up one of those Harbor Freight lifting tables for all jobs about the house,
but seems easier to make a flip up system. (space being the issue of not knocking up something,
and usually the case of clamping a long plank to the bench ATM)

That would be a lot easier if the base wasn't made of biscuit tin, or the fence rail wasn't present
at the back, but likely easily do-able at the same time.


SAM_4033.JPG


Tom
 
The bar is a precision drilled / reamed and the two bolts are machines to be a slide fit. The bar ensures that the fence remains orientated to the blade and is a safety device. It really comes into its own when the bars have the extensions added.
 
There are two variants of the bars, the difference is to accommodate the two variants of sliding table. The older variant has a slider that uses the cast iron machined to clip onto the rail, as shown in @Ttrees photo. These could wear and became slack on the rail and needed bushing which at one time was easy to get done……when there was a general machinist at the end of every road. The second design uses two sets of three ball bearing rollers to slide on the rail. Easy to replace the bearings, which is a good job! If you drop the table down in the wrong place the slider bar supports destroy the ball bearings! When I and and used this variant of saw I always had spare ball bearings on hand!
 
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