pillar drill depth

[sunnybob]

Anyone know of a way of making the drill movement greater?
The drill works really quite well, but I am constantly frustrated at the 50 mm maximum drop on the quill.

I'm having to lift the table up enough so that the drill is half inside the hole and then drill again to get through the wood.

 

[Bod]

Silly question.
You have got any depth restriction at it's maximum, and not set at 50mm?

Bod

 

[ColeyS1]

How about a couple of 25mm pieces of wood to slip under the workpiece instead of winding the table up ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[sunnybob]

The drill only moves 50 mm.

If I want to drill through 75 mm (or more) of wood I have to keep lifting the table. Its really irritating.
My old wolf drill stand with power drill had over 100 mm of travel.

 

[kirso]

Doubt if you will be able to increase the length of drop on the drill. It will be restricted by the length of the rack on the drill shaft.
I have the same issue with a used red devil drill I bought. I just use the pillar to ensure the hole is vertical and then continue with battery drill to finish.

 

[sunnybob]

very irritating.

 

[ColeyS1]

How about start off with the drill bit fully inserted in the chuck. Go as deep as you can, then slacken the chuck and pull the bit out as much as you dare and have another go. Might be easier than winding up the table ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[rafezetter]

Anyone know of a way of making the drill movement greater?
The drill works really quite well, but I am constantly frustrated at the 50 mm maximum drop on the quill.

I'm having to lift the table up enough so that the drill is half inside the hole and then drill again to get through the wood.

Pretty normal from what I understand, this is what I have to do all the time. I think there are versions with a longer throw, but most of those are floorstanding bigger machines iirc.

 

[sunnybob]

How about start off with the drill bit fully inserted in the chuck. Go as deep as you can, then slacken the chuck and pull the bit out as much as you dare and have another go. Might be easier than winding up the table ?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Doesnt work.
Yesterday I was drilling screw pilot holes through 55 mm timber. Using a 3mm drill, only 45 mm is protruding from the chuck even with the drill almost falling out. And even then I have to lift and lower the table just to get the drill in and out of the hole. It doesnt have a rack, which makes it even more time consuming.

Its a really annoying design flaw as far as I'm concerned. I think I need to come back next time as a design engineer.

 

[sunnybob]

working in the garage I just realised I didnt explain that at all well.

I'm fitting 55 mm fence posts to larger wooden posts, so am using big screws. I'm counterboring the first 15 mm for the screw head to disappear into. But then I have to get the 3 mm drill into the hole to get all the way through the wood.
But if I start with the drill above the wood, 50 mm depth doesnt do it. So I have to lift the table up to get the drill inside the larger hole and lock the table just so I can finish off the holes.

Yes I can do it with the battery drill after the large hole has been drilled, but its annoying, all for the sake of another 25 mm throw on the coloumn.

 

[Racers]

Self drilling screws and an impact driver.

Cheap drills only have a limited depth it's part of what makes them cheap.

Finding the limits of what something can do is part of life, none of us on here haven't had to replace a tool after discovering its limitations.


Pete

 

[dynax]

Hi Bob, i know this doesn't help much, but pillar drills were and still are built for metalworkers, it is a shame that these manufacturers haven't considered the mere mortal woodworker, it wouldn't take much engineering to manufacture a pillar drill for woodwork, and in some respects it would be simpler, i can't remember who did it, but on youtube someone made a pillar drill type holder for a dremel, and was operated by a lever similar to a morticer,

 

[Bm101]

Get yourself a Meddings Bob. 5 minute restoration time, dirt cheap shipping costs to Cyprus, every single one on ebay is easy to find and none of 'em are in bad condition mechanically and just require a light oiling. Jobsagoodun. It's a nobrainer mate...


Sorry mate. Could. Not. Resist. :roll:

 

[sunnybob]

That meddings is an "in" joke, so I'll take it as the compliment it was meant to be (lol).
But although me and the pillar drill didnt get off to a good start, Its a really useful tool in all other respects than the fact I have to keep lifting the table, rather than just lowering the chuck. I dont see why a 6" drop would be so hard to do.
Got no room for a free standing, whatever the make.

Even metal workers use thick material sometimes times.

 

[RossJarvis]

Even metal workers use thick material sometimes times.

Yep, it's called their head, for occasional use only!

 

[sunnybob]

Chris, pm sent, yet another of those common meddings.

 

[Rorschach]

No matter what drill depth is available, it is never enough for all jobs. I have 80mm on my drill and I still often have to workaround those limits.

 

[CHJ]

very irritating.

Even if you had a foreseen this requirement Before you purchased your Pillar Drill and bought a model with 80mm stroke you would still not have been able to do what you are trying to do without longer reach series drills.

And no doubt found that the electrically interlocked chuck guard can be a real pain in the butt for DIY use.

 

[sunnybob]

hmmm, one of those "I dont know what I need untill I need it" moments.
Never having had a small bench drill before, I was blissfully unaware of its limits in this respect.

For another 100 i might well have chosen that drill if I had been aware of the differences. And that interlocked face guard wouldnt have lasted the day out.

 

[Fitzroy]

One you have 30mm of hole have a hand drill with the same bit to finish the depth? The initial 30mm should keep it all straight.

F.