pillar drill depth

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Just stick it in a cordless 18v drill from the start. It's rare I need a super accurate hole drilling. Making pellets is certainly easier and having the depth stop comes in handy sometimes.
Any old off cut with some 90 degree cuts will give a good enough level of accuracy
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Sometimes it's easier taking the drill to the workpiece instead of juggling a massive bit over to the pillar drill. It's one of my least used machines.

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Look how good it looks :lol:
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It's not advisable but you can have a little bit of fun engaging the clutch and pretending it's a gun- pow pow pow

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coley, my makita has been on three round bursts for as long as I've owned it (2 in the body, 1 in the head).

I like the slower speeds of the bench drill, much less fuss and noise, and even though I've had around 50 years of practice with hand held drills of all types, its a lot more accurate than I am.
Just one of lifes minor disappointments (I've had around 50 years practice of that as well).
 
Incidentally, on my annual trip to Axminster Haitch Q last week I saw this. Well actually you couldn't miss it. It's displayed right next to the front door like those sweets big supermarkets put next to the tills to torment weary mothers of small irate children after a gruelling weekly shop. Cynical Axminster, cynical. It's almost like they are trying to run a business selling tools.
Actually I did miss it on the way in because I was there for a two specific reasons. 1: buy a decent die stock. (Fail. Soba. Shame on you Axminster!) 2: To see how many of their Hobby Range Drills I could push over in a row because they are so light and flimsy. (All 4 btw! Aww Yisss, new record! Back of the net! ;) )

Now I'm not suggesting you go and buy this of course Bob (or anyone else), but it did look to be a well engineered bit of gear so posting because of topicality. I had a bit of a fiddle with it and I couldn't break it although the Manager did keep looking over at me when I'd dropped it for the fourth time. Especially because I'd climbed on the stand to maximise effective destructive testing efficiency the last time. It's also shiny. Nice.

Joking aside, without having actually used it, from general feel, looks and weight etc, if anyone is after a rather neat jig for drilling square and at dedicated angles off the shelf this might be worth a gander. Think of this as a mini non reviewed tool review. Presumably available elsewhere at Equally Competitive Prices.
Just a thought.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technolo ... to-st-pp-1

Cheers
Chris
 
Well yeah Andy, fully appreciate that, far too pricey for my needs certainly. I posted it because it looked a well made bit of kit and might come in useful to some at that price bracket who hadn't seen it.. Who am i to know? Just trying to help mate.
And to be fair.... ;)

'Presumably available elsewhere at Equally Competitive Prices.' :wink:

Best regards as always
Chris
 
Well, it's yet more evidence that any woodworking problem will have several solutions, all at different prices.
 
I'd guess it's aimed at either a more professional or a niche top end hobby market? I haven't a clue where the rain is in a thunderstorm, you know that Andy. Not trying for a second to give advice. Repetitive different angled accurate drilling? Then again, maybe as a professional you wouldn't need it and just get on with doing it by eye? Lotsa money hobbyist? Plenty of money to spare and want that one hole you drill each month to be at exactly 62 degrees?
God knows.
 
I shall have to think about a home made lift, but theres too many other projects waiting at the mo.
 
It's just a parameter of the drill; we'd all like larger houses, faster cars, lighter bicycles, wider planers, drills with more quill travel and so on.

But it all costs.

BugBear
 
I agree about the price, but the Axminster jig has several things that are missing from the drill jig (stand) I presently have:

1. The integral shaft and chuck mean it's as accurate for alignment as the tolerances in manufacture. My cheapo one has a clamp for the drill collar, so the centre point is pushed over when that is tightened (not good).

2. It's been designed with alignment marks. Mine has none :-(

3. It has an elliptical plate for angled drilling. Mine is 90deg. only.

Both my cheapy and the Axy. one can drill anywhere on a flat surface that arms can reach to. neither are limited by the pillar of a drill press. This is the reason I have mine. Both also have "V" blocks (sort-of), for circular items.

I find mine useful, but it's also a PITA if something requires it to be used, as it's sloppy and inaccurate and you have to fuss over it to get good results. And the depth stop slips occasionally :-(

If I could run to the Axy one I'd get one, but it would have to be for some specific task - way too pricey to buy on spec.

Just my twopence.

E.

PS: I would find that quadrant annoying for angled drilling. It's all very well, but the axis of tilt is NOT through the surface of the workpiece (unless I misunderstand from the pictures). That means the tip of the drill, and the centre point of entry to the work, moves away from the crosshairs as the drill is tilted. There may be a table in the manual for the thing, indicating how much correction to apply -- there needs to be: you certainly can't just pick it up and use it on a tilt with a 30mm Forstner bit, no matter how sharp it is, as you'd have no idea where the hole would be. Anyway it would make a horrid mess of the surface without a sacrificial piece of stock, so the whole process is doubly complex.
 
I've found this a useful thread.
Presumably the drill in question is one of the little far Eastern bench top models.
I'm aware of them and was a little bit tempted that you could get something apparently useful for so little. But like Bob, I have a nice old Wolfcraft drill stand which gives me 75mm of travel. I also have a nice old hand powered drill which gives about 80mm. They fill the available space. (Along with a little lightweight Miller's Falls model.)
So thanks for the warning, I shall continue to resist temptation.

And I reckon Coley's suggestion in post 3 is the simplest, least bother workaround.
 
It's a workaround of sorts, but...

Couldn't you drill the 3mm holes with a standard length bit - drill them all

Put a longer 3mm drill bit/ extension, adjust the table and then re-drill the holes.

I know it's a faff - but one change and reset and off you go.


+1 for the hand cranked drills Andy mentioned above - they are slower but can drill a very long way
 
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