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A box to hold medication for my cousin.

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Nothing fancy, made from oddments of quarter sawn oak, dovetailed together with a hand carved thumb pull left from the tool. The top was mitred to cover the small square holes that would otherwise need plugging. Finished with three coats of Peacock Oil, two of Osmo PolyX and a couple of applications of Alfie Shine - Rob
 

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Nice box. What's the advantage in mixing finishes like that Rob?
Genuine question obviously.
 
Bm101":12mdqsx9 said:
Nice box. What's the advantage in mixing finishes like that Rob?
Genuine question obviously.

I found that the Peacock Oil seemed to give an extra depth of finish to the Osmo. I'm not sure if it's my imagination, but it seemed to have some sort of additional 'lustre' that Osmo alone didn't provide - Rob
 
jimmy_s":1rq7v89w said:
It complies with the regs. - I deal with heating/ flues/ fire regs etc daily, it's how I make my living.

That's good Jimmy, I'm pretty sure fitting a woodburner requires building control approval in England.

If you want to get rid of the step just do it when she's out, I knocked down an internal wall in our first house while she was at work, she didn't want me to but agreed it was right afterwards. She's rarely questioned anything since. :wink:

On reflection I'm not so sure I'd do it now, can't afford a divorce! :shock:
 
Multi fuels and woodburners require approval if they are not fitted by a HETAS approved fitter. I was told when I had mine that it is better (and often more cost effective) to get a fitter, as they know the regs. better than the building inspectors, and the building inspector will often cover his back and over specify.
 
marcros":2kws4k48 said:
How are you finding the peacock oil Rob?
It's good stuff; I quite like it but as I said above it seems to improve the final effect of other finishes applied over it. To be fair, I haven't tried all the variants yet but thus far it seems to be OK. Unlike the Liberon Finishing Oil that I've used in the past, there's no 'build up' with multiple coats and Matt at WH recommends walloping on three or four goodly coats within an hour and then letting it thoroughly dry for a week or ten days before applying anything else - Rob
 
it will be interesting to hear your thoughts in a few more months- it isn't cheap so I guess it is a question of whether it improves the other finishes enough to warrant buying it.
 
Here are a few photos of a knife I recently rehandled. It's my first try at this and I know I made a bunch of mistakes. But I'm still pleased with the result.

The wood is Sapele, with a thin layer of black plastic for a contrast. The wood and plastic are resin bonded together and to the blade, and then brass pins inserted and peened to provide extra mechanical strength and visual appeal. Finished with a few coats of mineral oil and then bees wax.

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Finished constructing my workbench (Paul Sellers design). Just needs some oil to finish it off now. I enjoyed making it and learnt a lot. I’m looking forward to using it now.

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NickM":6ca9bkc7 said:
Finished constructing my workbench (Paul Sellers design). Just needs some oil to finish it off now. I enjoyed making it and learnt a lot. I’m looking forward to using it now.


very nice job =D>
 
For many years I've carved a stylized mark of my initials into many of my carvings and turnings and often thought of trying to make a hot branding iron so no golf today as it's persisting down, a couple of hours to spare some brass rod, threaded rod and scrap beech and this is what I came up with.

Attempt no 1, last pic..... anyone see the deliberate mistake.
Yep forgot to reverse the image. #-o dozy git! :oops:

So.... after a good cry and severe self kicking I cut off 2 hours of work and started again. Much better effort although it's really only me who recognises what it is I'm happy with it though will probably finesse it a bit especially where the L crosses the R to separate the letters a little. I didn't try too hard to keep the letter edges smooth as I quite like a rustic look, whether I'll actually use it is another thing.

Brass was cut using Dremel type and dental burrs but instead of the Dremel I used my Foredom flexi carver which is more controllable.
 

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phil.p":3minli0k said:
... I used my Foredom ...

Ooooh, get you ... (only jealous). :D

Was lucky to get it at a good price s/h about 6 years ago Phil, wasn't trying to show off. :oops:

It's an older model and came with a spare flexi shaft and standard collet type handset but I bought an extra handset with a keyed chuck which is handy. It is a great bit of kit though so I consider myself very fortunate.
 
Good but overpriced Phil, no way I'd have even considered a new one but when this came up for grabs from a mate I just couldn't turn it down.
 
She could have made use of a shoe box but I raided the offcut bin. Ash and sapele - as that was what I had seven inches wide... six compartments and the lid was not part of the initial spec. Once I realised that I'd omitted the mitres on the lid, I'd already cut the groove for the top panel... ho hum! Lots of learning points!
 

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I've just finished this mail box out of scrap bits of oak left over from some construction work being done on my house.

It's the first time I have tried hand cutting dovetails... maybe 14 was a bit ambitious! However I am pretty pleased with the result.

All the wood was cut down to 12mm from thicker bits, edge joined and put through a thicknesser, then finished off with a hand plane, something i would never have done before I joined this forum as with the dovetails, thanks for the inspiration. It's been finished with very many coats of wipe-on matt poly, hopefully it will survive in my covered porch

Criticism welcomed :shock:
 

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