Would you believe I have got another lemon

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devonwoody

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I had an Axminster tablesaw delivered yesterday AW10bsb2 and the saw blade when wound up practically touches the table gullet.

I have had a Record, gone back.
I have had a Schappach, gone back.
I have had an Axminster who said they would take it back but they are going to give me an engineer call first in the hope that the holding blade mechanism can be put in the correct position(factory set)
I have still got to wait a week tho for an engineer to call.

I cannot even use my Triton (which I have had 5 years) because there is not enough space in the workshop to have both in a working position.
 
Well Waka it looks like it might come to that, look at these two pics.

2007_0911axminster0005w.jpg


2007_0911axminster0004w.jpg


I wonder what else I shall find.
 
Hi DW--it looks to me that they drilled the counter sinks on the wrong side of the throat insert.

If they do not get it sorted out, make an insert if need be if you want to keep the saw...I have made my own inserts for years in order to provide "zero" clearance on the sides of the saw blade.

Use the present one as a template--with corrections, of course.

Take care, Mike
 
Construction looks same as my SIP but the blade and riving knife should be central the motor and rise/ fall arm is held to the CI table at four points (you adjust here to get blade parallel to table slots )and i think this is where the problem could be .
'I wonder what else I shall find' well its all adjustable so you will have to adjust it, fence for square, height and position of rails it runs on, the plastic bits have to be sized to not catch on the wood or the fence rail The 90 and 45 stops also need adjusting and you have to line up the riving knife with the blade quite time consuming that one.
However once its all done it stays. I don't have the sliding table so no input there.
It needs 16amp feed, it will keep blowing 13amp fuses.
 
Hi DW,

I know nothing of your saw but is it possible that the saw blade mounting washers/flanges are on the motor shaft in reverse order?


Aldel
 
I can see what Mike means, if you turn it end over end it looks like there would be more clearence there for the front teeth.
Shouldn't the blade be more centered in the groove left to right though?
 
The blade is definately in the wrong position, If the tommy bar is used to undo the saw blade the bar holding slot on the ci table is too far away.

But what is so annoying is this is the third attempt at trying to buy a decent tablesaw.
 
DW, I got mine monday 10th, and set it up, following the manual....
with everything fastened bolted and fixed, making sure the rise/fall mechanism worked freely , I (as instructed) give the saw a quick on/off..
all seemed fine, so another longer on/off......still fine, repeated this several times getting longer in duration, until i was running it for a couple of minutes.....Perfick , at last a nice quiet saw........ :D :D

now reading your thread , my blade is in the same position as yours :shock: , why is it wrong??? (newbie to big toys, oops Tools).
is it supposed to be the other side, in the middle or what???
please advise, cos now I`m worried about using it.. :(
 
Neilo . With trhe blade in that position just the slightest deflection and the teeth will hit the gullet and teeth could fly off the blade anywhere, plus small bits of timber will fall down in the wide gap.

Neil you've got a lemon!
 
just tried my saw, the tilt goes right so doesnt it need that clearance to the right of the blade to operate correctly?
anymore clearance to the left would make the tilt possibly catch the insert when running

seems to run perfectly well...(i have a clearance of 2.5 mm insert to blade on the left, is that enough???)
 
Mine is the same - I made a zero clearance insert for it and changed the blade for a decent one and have no trouble with it. The riving knife is centered with the blade and the flanges are in the right order.

Maybe the aluminium insert is the lemon rather than the saw
 
NeilO":3cvjoi0n said:
just tried my saw, the tilt goes right so doesnt it need that clearance to the right of the blade to operate correctly?
anymore clearance to the left would make the tilt possibly catch the insert when running

seems to run perfectly well...(i have a clearance of 2.5 mm insert to blade on the left, is that enough???)

2.5mm might be enough clearance on the left Neil, but check with Axminster. My clearance on the left is less than 1mm.
 
Jhalfa":2vz0aiki said:
Mine is the same - I made a zero clearance insert for it and changed the blade for a decent one and have no trouble with it. The riving knife is centered with the blade and the flanges are in the right order.

Maybe the aluminium insert is the lemon rather than the saw

Possible but what about when you put the tommybar in to change the blade, the slot for holding the tommybar against the table is too far to the right to be correct IMHO on mine. So that makes the blade holder in the wrong position?
 
DW, mine wasnt 2.5 mm to start with, I undid the screws on the insert and refastened them left side first, which pulled the insert clearance to the 2.5mm I have now ( if thats any help )
like i said anymore clearance and the tilt would probably catch in operation....

PS.. did yours come with a plug??



other than that I think its a good saw, dont think its a lemon , just some fine tuning to be done, and a zero tolerance insert cant be a bad thing.....
 
Mines the same, regarding the slot for the tommy bar but I wouldnt rely on the "slot" holding the tommy bar , in any case DW...
you cant beat a good firm grip, when tightening any thing up...
 
Dw, just had one of the bolts out fro the motor/blade mechanism, and they are slotted, so some movement is available ( I know you shouldnt have to do it, but mass produced stuff (( poor factory workers are probably paid by the unit) so you can get more clearance to the left of the blade, probably 5 or 6 mm, cant see that well its dark under there...

HTH
other than that I think its good for the price..
 
No plug Neil.
Tony says his saw is OK on 13 amp. plug, but the gentleman above says his needs 16amp.

I know there must be movement of the trunion under the ci table but at the end of the day just shifting the trunion over can then mean that the mitre slots will not be true to the blade unless the engineer has some tooling spacers etc. to set the true spacing. The blade must be 100% square to those slots to satisfy me. Otherwise I dont want the saw.
 
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