Wooden 'Shaves with Blades Curved along the width?

[J_SAMa]

Should've posted this a long time ago...
I've got a wooden spokeshave that I have been trying to sharpen, *trying*. The "problem" is that the blade is slightly curved along its cutting edge, concave on the bevel side, convex on the non beveled bottom side. If I try to sharpen the concave bevel side on my flat stone, then, of course, only the two ends contact the stone and the rest of the blade doesn't.
Looking at a few pictures of old wooden spokeshaves online (this is the only woodie I have), I've noticed that this type of slightly curved blade (matched by a curved sole most of the time) is actually quite common? Please, if you own one of these, share your method of sharpening it. Only thing I can think of is using the narrow edge of a stone, but my diamond stone (nor any other diamond stone for that matter) doesn't have usable thin edges...
Or maybe a slipstone :?
Thanks,
Sam

 

[jimi43]

Should've posted this a long time ago...
I've got a wooden spokeshave that I have been trying to sharpen, *trying*. The "problem" is that the blade is slightly curved along its cutting edge, concave on the bevel side, convex on the non beveled bottom side. If I try to sharpen the concave bevel side on my flat stone, then, of course, only the two ends contact the stone and the rest of the blade doesn't.
Looking at a few pictures of old wooden spokeshaves online (this is the only woodie I have), I've noticed that this type of slightly curved blade (matched by a curved sole most of the time) is actually quite common? Please, if you own one of these, share your method of sharpening it. Only thing I can think of is using the narrow edge of a stone, but my diamond stone (nor any other diamond stone for that matter) doesn't have usable thin edges...
Or maybe a slipstone :?
Thanks,
Sam

Yes Sam...you hit the nail on the head...a slip stone is probably the easiest way.

Raise a burr and then "flatten" off the face on a flat stone but swing it along the curve. I use a small diamond plate for this.

This is also handy for moulding planes where you have to be a tad more careful. The face is the easiest side to sharpen in my opinion when you are just touching up as it brings the angles together at a sharp point just as easy as mucking around with the bevel.

This is just my experience but other's mileage may vary! :mrgreen:

Jimi

 

[AndyT]

Could you show us some pictures? I can't make out if it's a curved shape or just badly worn.
But if you need to hone a concave surface, the simple answer is that you either need a curved slipstone or else improvise one by wrapping fine abrasive paper round a bit of dowel or tubing.

 

[Jacob]

Narrow edge of a normal 2" stone on edge.

 

[bugbear]

Should've posted this a long time ago...
I've got a wooden spokeshave that I have been trying to sharpen, *trying*. The "problem" is that the blade is slightly curved along its cutting edge, concave on the bevel side, convex on the non beveled bottom side. If I try to sharpen the concave bevel side on my flat stone, then, of course, only the two ends contact the stone and the rest of the blade doesn't.
Looking at a few pictures of old wooden spokeshaves online (this is the only woodie I have), I've noticed that this type of slightly curved blade (matched by a curved sole most of the time) is actually quite common? Please, if you own one of these, share your method of sharpening it. Only thing I can think of is using the narrow edge of a stone, but my diamond stone (nor any other diamond stone for that matter) doesn't have usable thin edges...
Or maybe a slipstone :?
Thanks,
Sam

Obviously (!!) you need a narrow, ideally convex, abrasive. However, a flat abrasive can be used as long as it's under half the width of the blade length, so that you can work the whole blade backwards and forwards, sharpening every point. The stone will eventually wear to the required convexity, or you could help it along with some coarse SiC paper.

Since the spokeshave blade is deeply hollow ground, the bevel angle is set by simply resting the edge and heel on the abrasive - easy!

BugBear

BugBear

 

[J_SAMa]

Could you show us some pictures? I can't make out if it's a curved shape or just badly worn.
But if you need to hone a concave surface, the simple answer is that you either need a curved slipstone or else improvise one by wrapping fine abrasive paper round a bit of dowel or tubing.

Pretty sure it's intentionally shaped like that...
Guess i'll make do with sandpaper on dowel, 'til I get a slipstone...

 

[bugbear]

Nice photo!

=D> =D> =D>

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

It looks worn out to me. Passed it. If there's not enough blade you can't get a 30º bevel and it becomes more a scraper than a shaver.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I think that's a shallow travisher iron rather than a true spokeshave iron, which would be flat. Travishers, like gouges, were made in a range of curvatures from virtually flat (like the one in the photo) to aggressively curved, but all with the tangs straight up and parallel to each other.

I also think there's a bit of life left in it yet, and it could be sharpened by making a wooden block with a curved surface matching the blade, and faced with abrasive paper. A double-sided block (say 1" wide and about 4" to 6" long, maybe 3/4" thick or so - leave a bit on the end for a handle, too, if you fancy) with a medium abrasive on one side and fine on the other allows you to reshape and refine the edge. Finish with a leather strop if the work demands it, but as spokeshaves are more a shaping than a finishing tool I find they rarely need this degree of refinement. It's a bit of a pain having to make dedicated sharpening equipment for just one tool, but as most people have relatively few 'odd' tools, it's a problem that can be lived with. Do the bulk of the sharpening on the bevelled side, and back off on the side opposite the tangs on a normal flat stone, as you would with a chisel or plane iron.

 

[jimi43]

You might think this one is difficult...try doing one out of the Millars Falls Cigar MF1 shave!

 

[bugbear]

I think that's a shallow travisher iron rather than a true spokeshave iron, which would be flat.

Disagree - every wooden spokeshave I have (several) has a blade curved like that.

BugBear

 

[J_SAMa]

Nice photo!

=D> =D> =D>

BugBear

Just plate glass...

 

[DTR]

Disagree - every wooden spokeshave I have (several) has a blade curved like that.

BugBear

My one and only spokeshave also has a curved blade like the one posted above

 

[J_SAMa]

Does anyone have a flat spokeshave then?
I think I'm better off buying a new, completely straight spokeshave as i want something easier to sharpen.
Don't get me wrong, I'll still use this one, the curve is good for hogging off a lot of wood I suppose (like a scrub)?

 

[Cheshirechappie]

I think that's a shallow travisher iron rather than a true spokeshave iron, which would be flat.

Disagree - every wooden spokeshave I have (several) has a blade curved like that.

BugBear

Actually, BB, you're right! I've just checked my vintage ones, and they do have a the same very slight curve. My more modern wooden-bodied shave (Harris Tools) has a flat blade, though.

Sam - ignore my whitterings about curved blocks of wood. A rectangular slipstone does the job. If you don't yet have a slipstone, the abrasive paper stuck to wood will still work, but make the wood narrow - say 10mm or so.

 

[Jacob]

Does anyone have a flat spokeshave then?
I think I'm better off buying a new, completely straight spokeshave as i want something easier to sharpen.
Don't get me wrong, I'll still use this one, the curve is good for hogging off a lot of wood I suppose (like a scrub)?

If you actually want to use them you can't beat the Stanley 151 (or record similar). One flat, one rounded, is all you need for almost everything.