Wiring cost?

[pike]

I've been getting quotes of around £800-1400 for wiring my shed up with a consumer unit, several double sockets, 3 or 4 lights and connecting up the SWA (already in place) plus running t&e outside the house back in to the main board. Nothing special, no 16 amp dedicated supplies for example. Just surfaced mounted cabling.

Does that sound about right these days? Half wondering if they don't want to do it as it's a smallish job. To be fair I have no idea what the going rate is.

Cheers!

 

[RobinBHM]

That's about the range I pay these days for electrics for a conservatory or orangery (probably a bit more for an orangery as led lights add up to quite a bit).

I guess 2 days work + testing + materials + VAT could be around £1000

Electrics these days involves quite a bit of testing and sometimes additional upgrades to earthing or circuits. For example extending a ring into a conservatory will mean that whole circuit will have to be RCD protected and tested, with the results needing to be within a set range. Any faults shown up during this process will need correcting.

Your job is notifiable so there is also the NICEIC or equivalent form to submit.

Im sure the pricing is not because its considered a small job. (or perhaps the Ferrari parked on the drive is putting up the price!)

This is just my thoughts, Im sure an electrician will be along soon to give you more precise details.

 

[MikeJhn]

To make the whole thing less expensive you could do all the internals yourself, then for piece of mind get the final connection and tests done by a qualified electrician.

Mike

 

[pike]

Cheers Mike. That's very tempting but I have zero experience so it might be a mistake. I bet once I've seen it in place, I'll realise I could easily have done the basics.

 

[MikeJhn]

Without any doubt, the mechanics of wiring a shed is not as complicated as a dovetail joint IMO.

Mike

 

[pike]

A dovewhatnow? :roll:

 

[bugbear]

Cheers Mike. That's very tempting but I have zero experience so it might be a mistake. I bet once I've seen it in place, I'll realise I could easily have done the basics.

Maybe;

http://greyaliengames.com/blog/knowing-where-to-tap/

Edit; I've found a version of that story from 1922 !!

BugBear

 

[pike]

Brilliant

I'm getting the impression these quotes aren't over the top. Have found someone who has given me a reasonable price at the bottom end of the above and he comes recommended. So am going to get it done and pay attention in case I can ever save a bit with some prep work if I ever get similar done again.

Cheers.

 

[MikeJhn]

Not only if you ever get something similar done again, you will inevitably find that after using your shop for a while you will need another couple of sockets somewhere it always happens. #-o

Mike

 

[Neil S]

I think many electricians are reluctant to put their name on someone elses work. They have to sign off that the installation is OK. The best way to get the cost down in my opinion is to do all the donkey work in advance for them. Offer to fit all the trunking and back boxes in advance but let them pull the cables and wire up. If you could get it down to one day of cableing and testing then it would likely be cheaper.

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[slemishwoodcrafts]

I ran all the conduit and cables in my workshop, mounted the plugs and switches and connected all the wires apart from the lights and everything going into the consumer unit and the mains coming in.
Got a spark in for the rest and he said it saved him a lot of hassle and was happy enough with my work


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[HappyHacker]

Apart from the testing there is the certificate (Electrical Installation Certificate), that usually takes at least an hour to do properly, which shows the results of the testing, make sure they are producing one for you. The quotes sound in the right ball park to me, if you can someone recommended all the better.

Kevin

 

[Paul200]

I ran all the conduit and cables in my workshop, mounted the plugs and switches and connected all the wires apart from the lights and everything going into the consumer unit and the mains coming in.
Got a spark in for the rest and he said it saved him a lot of hassle and was happy enough with my work


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I'll be doing this when I build my workshop. Since moving here 2 years ago we've built good working relationships with local tradesmen. I've checked with our electrician that he would be OK to make the final connection and sign off my work. Everyone's happy.

 

[MikeJhn]

First pic shows the original consumer unit with five new RCBO's in place, this was prior to finding out that they are not allowed in France, we had to put up with constant trip outs from the main, due to exceeding our power limit, the French trip you out if you do that, second pic shows how I split the power over the three phase's, no more trip outs, just because the water heater has come on, the only thing I would say to anyone contemplating this is to get a correct terminal screwdriver for the RCD screws, I was very very surprised how much more I could turn the terminal after using a normal PZK driver using the correct driver: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/15168131 ... 931&crdt=0






Mike

 

[Neil S]

If it's not a pz pozi drive screwdriver is it just a PH Philips instead. Or is it something else again?


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[No skills]

It's a pozi plus minus screwdriver.

 

[AES]

I have no idea of UK costs, but I'm doing something very similar right now. Because we have 3 phase as standard here (Switzerland) I'm now splitting the sockets (and adding some, plus a new CU, etc) between all 3 phases. Apart from the fact that "fiddling"with 3 phase yourself is "strictly verboten" here, I'm not entirely convinced I'd know what I'm doing anyway.

So I've done a deal with a local 1 man leccy firm. I told him exactly what and where I want everything, he's supplied all the materials, and explained to me EXACTLY what he wants done (even to the extent that "I don't allow my conduits to wander all over the place, they run parallel to the walls"! "Got it?"). I'm doing all the drilling and mounting conduits (WITH pull strings), junction boxes, sockets, CU, etc and he's doing all the wiring up. It's costing me just under 1,000 Swiss Francs, which for here, is cheap I believe.

For the OP, I suggest you watch your bloke very carefully, ask loads of questions, then apart from the actual wiring up, you'll be well placed to do 90% of any future additions yourself.

P.S. Cellars here are made of reinforced concrete (including a nuclear fall out shelter - YES!) and drilling all those holes, many overhead, even with a Bosch hammer drill and SDS+, is breaking my neck!!!

Nearly finished now through.

 

[MikeJhn]

No Skills is right, I have never heard it called that before, just a RCD screwdriver.

Mike

Here's the link again: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/15168131 ... 931&crdt=0

 

[Boatman]

I have no idea of UK costs, but I'm doing something very similar right now. Because we have 3 phase as standard here (Switzerland) I'm now splitting the sockets (and adding some, plus a new CU, etc) between all 3 phases. Apart from the fact that "fiddling"with 3 phase yourself is "strictly verboten" here, I'm not entirely convinced I'd know what I'm doing anyway.

So I've done a deal with a local 1 man leccy firm. I told him exactly what and where I want everything, he's supplied all the materials, and explained to me EXACTLY what he wants done (even to the extent that "I don't allow my conduits to wander all over the place, they run parallel to the walls"! "Got it?"). I'm doing all the drilling and mounting conduits (WITH pull strings), junction boxes, sockets, CU, etc and he's doing all the wiring up. It's costing me just under 1,000 Swiss Francs, which for here, is cheap I believe.

For the OP, I suggest you watch your bloke very carefully, ask loads of questions, then apart from the actual wiring up, you'll be well placed to do 90% of any future additions yourself.

P.S. Cellars here are made of reinforced concrete (including a nuclear fall out shelter - YES!) and drilling all those holes, many overhead, even with a Bosch hammer drill and SDS+, is breaking my neck!!!

Nearly finished now through.

I lived in Switzerland for 20+ years and sfr 1000 is Cheap. Yes bunkers may come in handy.. what with the US. Conduit should always be parallel. Pull strings forever as that new supply is ever so easy to pull the cable in.

 

[MikeJhn]

Buying conduit in any of the French Brico sheds will have either pull wires already installed or they will be pre-wired 3x1.5 in 16mm or 3x2.5 in 20mm, if you do get conduit without any pull wires installed, I have found these do the job: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index ... index.html or this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CODT.html

The rods are useful to pull conduit through a ceiling void or similar, the tape for pulling through the cable's

Mike