What's your Jack?

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jelly

Established Member
Joined
20 Sep 2012
Messages
1,366
Reaction score
340
Location
Sheffield
There's a general consensus that everyone has a slightly different idea of what planes to use for what, based largely around the work they do, and what feels comfortable... so I'm curious to know what other people are using as their jack planes, and any factors they think have influenced their choice.

I use a wooden plane which is roughly equivalent to a No.6 as my jack plane, mainly working on furniture, and occasionally bits of large joinery (windows and doors), and I'm about 6'3" with a positive ape index, less than delicately proportioned hands and very little natural motor co-ordination; that latter most point being the important one, I find it much easier to accurately handle larger objects in general.
 
I generally reach for this Emir 2" razee-style wooden Jack

image_zps9cf3fdaa.jpg


which is exactly the same as I used in school when I was 12 years old, or else a perfectly ordinary Stanley 5½

image_zps6b24b3a5.jpg
 
A 35 yr old Stanley no5 with a fettled body & a razored jap blade. And a little home-made shim to reduce backlash in the blade-depth adjustment.
 
LN 62 1/2, Record 5 1/2 and Record No8

But some times a Record 5 or 4 1/2

Pete
 
Wooden Preston Jack plane, 16" body, 2" blade, just under 1/16" camber on the blade.

As a consequence my #5 and #6 planes have very-nearly-straight edges on their irons, and are tuned to take fine shavings, more like "panel planes".

BugBear
 
Footprint no. 5. Used most days, 1980s vintage and still going strong. Nimble, portable and versatile; set coarse with a heavy camber on the blade. Often precedes the no. 6, which I also use a lot and is set a bit more finely.
 
An old wooden jointer with a narrow blade, cut down to about 19". Cambered blade.
When I need to remove a lot of wood, a German wooden scrub, very narrow and short, the blade is more like a gouge, with a very tight radius in the cambered blade.
And sometimes a Record #5.

For me it needs to be narrow, otherwise I can't push it through a thick shaving in hard wood.
 
Record number 5, I can't manage anything much heavier with ease, and the Record I can use one-handed if I have to.

longinthetooth":2u5a40zd said:
A 35 yr old Stanley no5 with a fettled body & a razored jap blade. And a little home-made shim to reduce backlash in the blade-depth adjustment.

Interesting mindset, Mine's 25 years old but as far as I'm concerned it's new because I bought it new myself. Old tools are ones that I inherit or buy second-hand.
 
For fast waste removal ..

Shop made Mesquite razee 15" long with a 2" wide 5/16" thick D2 blade ...

BuildingaJackPlane_html_ma7dc66e.jpg


For traversing or shooting ..

LV LA Jack (now sporting a PM-V11 blade) ...

A9_zpsb2d0e238.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Derek, that plane Iron is a beast! Would I be right in assuming that you chose to use such a thick section because of the somewhat awkward working properties of many of Australia's native hardwoods?
 
Hi Jelly

The D2 blade was one offered on the Australian forum a few years ago. I thought it might be a good choice for a jack, so grabbed one. It is a monster, and it just powers through the hardest wood ..

BuildingaJackPlane_html_m1d47a67f.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Hi Jelly

The D2 blade was one offered on the Australian forum a few years ago. I thought it might be a good choice for a jack, so grabbed one. It is a monster, and it just powers through the hardest wood ..

Regards from Perth

Derek

Typical Aussie! Can't even tell the difference between a "plane blade" and "D2 house brick" ! :lol: :lol: :lol:

BugBear
 
Back
Top