What connector is this?

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Mead Camans

George
Joined
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Hi all.

Anyone know what this type of electrical connector is called? And where to buy?

Closest I could find is a fork connector, but the ones I see online are a different shape and size.

It's off my Camvac unit. One of the little prongs broke off as I was taking the motor off.🤦‍♂️ (This is an intact one.)

Any help appreciated!

George
20240209_161004.jpg
 
They look to be something OEM specific as they appear to have location tabs to prevent rotation and both electrical and mechanical crimping, ie both the conductor and insulation are crimped. A picture of what they attach to might help .

You might have to settle for un-insulated fork connectors such as these

https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/uninsu...MI5Yb7-vughAMVa5KDBx3kfQiSEAMYASAAEgINlPD_BwE

which only crimp the conductor and use heatshrink to support the wire itself, adhesive lined heatshrink being the better option.
 
Back in the 70s and 80s when I fixed my own cars, fork connectors of that general type were pretty common, you might find some in a halfrauds or local car spares shop if any still exist.
 
I have just had exactly the same thing on my Karcher Vaccuum cleaner where the motor has burnt out! The connector did the same to me.
This is a non standard connector crimped on a special crimping machine. Best thing to do is to see if you can buy a new cable as a spare with the connector already crimped on.
 
I have just had exactly the same thing on my Karcher Vaccuum cleaner where the motor has burnt out! The connector did the same to me.
This is a non standard connector crimped on a special crimping machine. Best thing to do is to see if you can buy a new cable as a spare with the connector already crimped on.
I think that's probably what I'll do. Record Power are pretty good with spares and technical advice, so I'll ask them when I get the motor fixed.
 
They look to be something OEM specific as they appear to have location tabs to prevent rotation and both electrical and mechanical crimping, ie both the conductor and insulation are crimped. A picture of what they attach to might help .

You might have to settle for un-insulated fork connectors such as these

https://www.cablecraft.co.uk/uninsu...MI5Yb7-vughAMVa5KDBx3kfQiSEAMYASAAEgINlPD_BwE

which only crimp the conductor and use heatshrink to support the wire itself, adhesive lined heatshrink being the better option.
The crimp on both the conductor and insulator is standard fare, certainly on vehicle wiring. You can use the proper crimp tool, about ÂŁ40! Alternatively you can crimp them using small pliers, but fiddly. Or solder the conductor in.
The problem with the connector shown is the wide section immediately behind the fork. That is probably OEM. If you can get around that then use something like this, available in loads of different sizes.
1707645231456.png
 
If you really get stuck then if you have a bit of brass the right thickness it would be easy enough to make one, you could use a brass lock catch plate for example. Just do it with a long straight tang and solder into the original. Most of these connectors are brass, or at least the good quality ones are, they are tinned, hence the silver colour.
 
These connectors are very fiddly they are not a standard fork terminal size. They are made to lock in position bearing in mind they will be on a motor that vibrates. I guess they are meant to be used once only as one of mine broke when I pulled it out as well.
 
The crappy moulded 100mm down to 60mm or whatever it's supposed to be reducer is an absolute piece of junk(doesn't fit without heating it) record have come up with a new connector on the camvacs but won't supply it to existing camvac owners who want to upgrade (I can't see any reason why not as th original is only siliconed together!!) Record seems to have turned into a strange corporate entity. I recently bought a sabre 450 bandsaw and am well happy with it's performance. The camvac twin motor version I bought seems to have a lot more suck with smaller diameter hoses. I'll get back with info after i've set my 100mm ducting up in my 5x3m workshop.
Cheers.
Andrew
 
Im surprised to hear that a manufacturer would make somthing special like this,,I thought they used off the shelf componants unless it was somthing very unusual? Anyway, if your stuck what about using a regular spade connector and cutting a slot in it with the Dremel,,you can add a few anti vibration grooves whilst your at it?
 
Can you show is a pic of where it was connected in to?

It's hard to believe that a more commonly available type wouldn't suit perfectly well.
 

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