WANTED-Book on Spindle Moulding

[Mark.R]

Hi there;

Before I get into Spindle moulding, I would very much like to have a good book that covers the various aspects of the subject.

Is there anyone who would be willing to sell me such a book (second hand of course), that they no longer require anymore. I would pay for postage obviously.

If anyone is able to respond, then please provide me with your landline telephone number for contact.

Many thanks

Mark.r

 

[wizer]

Here you go

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=36669

 

[ProShop]

IMHO Don't buy the Lonnie Bird book, if you want a book buy the Eric Stephenson, as it's written accentually for the European market, and much more up to date with the modern safety tooling cutter block types etc that prevail here in the UK. And includes some H & S rules & regs (look on their website for more info on this).

An even better way to learn to use these much maligned machines is to invest in some real training from an expert, some of them will come to your premises & teach you on your machines and show how to get the very best out of them in SAFETY. Something that's well worth considering imho as it's a skill with you for life.

Oh & by the way a top tip from someone who's spend far to many years in machine shops BUY A POWER FEEDER


Hope this helps

 

[Mark.R]

Thanks for the replies. Was hoping someone had such a book they no longer required.

I note the advice for a power feeder. I would like to have one, in that it would take away the need to get so close to the cutters. At the moment, I am currently scratch-building our kitchen, so due to budget restrictions, the power feeder has not been a priority!

Mark.r

 

[JoinerySolutions]

If you buy a spindle moulder, even the small Axminster one, then a power feed is really first on the list before the cutter block.
First reason is safety, especially for someone new to them, and then there is the quality of finish you will get. The consistant speed and pressure applied to the timber will give smooth mouldings etc that will require minimal time in cleaning up. I often go straight to 240 grit, where hand feeding will require coarser grits first.(though mostly when ring fencing by hand) Another tip is to never rush a job, a sensible and ordered routine will greatly help progression of work.
Another way to look at it cost wise is... how much would a stay in hospital cost you in lost earnings. The last guy I know who ran his thumb through the groover lost 12 weeks work due to complications.
Used properly spindle moulders save time and money, lots of both, so don't be scared away by horror stories; just use them to your advantage.
The DVD "Basic Spindle Moulding" by Roy Sutton may be of use to you. (Axminster do it) I have not seen it but have heard good reviews, he was a very helpful and knowledgeable chap.
Rob.

 

[juatrhiw]

Interesting subject, this.

If you want to just get to grips with the machine, I can strongly recommend the Roy Sutton DVD. All my spindle work has been based on this, with some adaptation for a different machine, and things have gone OK so far.

However, what I cannot find is a book or DVD with instructions covering the machining of window frames and doors, given that with modern insulation and security requirements, the profiles for the frames have become quite complex to plan and machine. I'm talking specifically about solutions that would be appropriate for the individual maker, not the factory with a hundred grand to spend on tooling.

I'm currently in the situation of contemplating the purchase of suitable tenoning/moulding/scribing tools, but I need to assess the most appropriate level of expenditure. I might be able to save on tooling by being content to work with more passes, but without someone's else's experience to kick off from, I feel a bit lost.

I think I will have to go with the advice of ProTools and talk to a knowledgeable maker, but if anyone knows of any better literature, please shout.

 

[ProShop]

How much money have you got

It really depends on how many windows etc your planning on making as to costs. The more efficient you want to be the more the costs go up and I mean up :shock: .

But if you have the time, or making for your own home for example you can get by with spending just a few hundred (low hundreds). But you have to make more passes & change blocks & cutters a few times.

TBH it can be complex if your new to this type of manufacture & it can be very costly if you purchase the wrong tooling due to inexperience.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Interesting. I have the Stephenson book and I think it is very poor. Maybe there is more up-to-date edition, but the one I have is not good.

BTW I have a virtually unused SM for sale, if anyone is interested, free Stephenson book included!

S

 

[ProShop]

It had an update recently, I believe in 2007.
its certainly better than Lonnie's offering

 

[Steve Maskery]

Fair enough. Mine is much older than that.
S

 

[Mark.R]

Well due to your advice, I ordered a power feed for my Spindle moulder yesterday. They said it should be with me early next week.

Am glad I have decided to fork out a little for something that will add to my safety and keep my paws away from the cutters.

Mark.r

 

[FatFreddysCat]

Interesting. I have the Stephenson book and I think it is very poor. Maybe there is more up-to-date edition, but the one I have is not good.

I think the older book was good as far as it went, for example where else can you find any reference on saddle or double saddle work (i.e curved in one or two planes)? Main problem with it is that it is really dated, pre-dating even the 1974 woodworking regs, so a lot of the tooling information is out of date (and with it the stuff about developing cutter profiles). The new book is more up to date, but you probably wouldn't be happy with it as it covers a lot on topics such as grinding which might not interest you, but makes interesting and informative reading for the pro.