Wall tile adhesive thickness

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RogerS

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What sort of thickness do I need to plan for? Trying to work out the projection of the pipe for the shower controls but this is critical and so I need to factor in the depth of wall adhesive. Can't get hold of the guy doing the tiling to ask as he's away.

4mm OK ?
 
I'd leave the pipes over long, cap them (push in stops) and then only cut to size once the tiling is finished.
 
deema":25n393lf said:
I'd leave the pipes over long, cap them (push in stops) and then only cut to size once the tiling is finished.


My bad. It's one of these

78834.jpg


The pipes run vertically behind the tilebacker board, then one of these

end-feed-wall-plate-elbow-15mm-x-1-2-67164.jpg


and the Hans Grohe screws in. They specify a certain range for the elbow position. Thing is that I'm running up 22mm pipes and they are tight against the back of the tilebacker board and don't give me much room to manoeuvre.

If push comes to shove then I'll just have to run 15mm pipe up which gives me a bit more room to play with.
 
I fitted an identical shower last month and 15mm pipe gave plenty of water supply and pressure. I know what you mean about the spacing for the elbow mounting, I used wet wall and allowed 3mm for adhesive behind the board. Just enough and no more as it turned out. 4mm sounds about right for tile adhesive.
Good luck.
 
davem62":ljdfwmmq said:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bristan-bar-valve-wall-mount-11-fixing-kit-chrome-plated/58495

roger
i would get one of these a lot less hassle well worth the money if you can build out the wall or if is studded


Oh I LIKE that ! =D>
 
Those bristan valves are the Canine's testicles - makes the whole job a MASSIVE amount quicker and far more stable once all fitted.
You'll want to get a nice stud behind to fix to, (allowing for the pipes, of course).

They also make it easier to replace the actual valve if ever required due to silicon failure meaning tile removal and full refit, (DAMHIK!!!)

I agree regarding pipe size - unless the shower valve has 22mm connectors, 15mm is fine up behind the board
 
I estimated at 4mm, it was that give or take... Depends how much you back butter the tiles.

I also got the depth wrong, too shallow. So had to make a jig to cut the pipe covers down and then (as I was going to anywya) silicon them on to stop water getting in (left a small gap at the bottom to let water out).
 
Mmmm...just bought one and having read the instructions, I'm not so sure.

First off it talks about cutting a hole in the plasterboard? Plasterboard ? In a shower ? What planet are these guys on?

OK..maybe that was a typo. So now I have my nice tilebacker board designed to keep water out from behind it. And they tell me to cut a thumping great rectangular hole in it, insert their gizmo that has loads of holes through it. I can see it will work if you use a couple of tubes of silicon.
 
Ive got regular grade plasterboard in my recently rebuilt shower. Granted its then tanked, somewhat over the minimum thickness etc

BUT still had to belt two pretty big holes in it all for the shower fittings (same/similar to what you have) in there. They are full of silicon though :lol:
 
Update:

FAIL!

Shame. Nice idea. If you're not using a Hans Grohe shower control and using thin tiles, that is. There is simply not enough length of thread on the brass sleeve to accommodate A Hans Grohe and 11mm tiles.

Also their chrome sleeves are rather tacky plastic and where one slides into the other is a magnet for crud. The Hans Grohe one are rather smart metal.

So it's going back.

I made the mistake of using plasterboard the last time I did a shower. Never, ever again. Grout can develop fine cracks over time letting water in behind. Soggy plasterboard. Proper tilebacker boards for me everytime.
 
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