Removing tiles attached to plasterboard - Shower room renovation

[Dibs-h]

+1 for Marmox boards, but remember to get the washers you need for them and the correct screws. You also need to tape\seal all the joints. For a belts and braces approach - I'd cover the lot in a membrane.

And above all use the "correct" adhesive (I prefer Ardex) and "comb" both the back of the tile and what it's going onto, with the correct size "combed" (or notched) trowel depending on the size of the tiles.

Schluter do some nice internal "beading" profiles - means no silconed internal corners. And depending on the floor substrate etc - perhaps a decoupling mat\membrane. Again a belts & braces approach.

For a wet-room that is.

 

[Sideways]

I don't like plastic piping much either. My preference is copper but I use pegler push fit fittings to join them. I find they make a high quality and long lasting joint. Make a point of using the premium brass push fittings though. There is a cheaper range in copper and those are atrocious !

 

[caitrionahoran]

What happens when plasterboard is used and water gets behind the tiles! It's very easy to remove though, it fell off! Regards tray size, I though the tray sat with the tiles overhanging it, so the thickness of the board and tiles should not impact it, just the opening size?

I plan to redo both my bathrooms later in the year and I am going to go for hardiebacker boards, or the foam type Jackobord/Marmox board, with acrylic panels over the top. Looks less work than tiling and far less grout to clean at a later date.

View attachment 152295

Thanks
I am considering using acrylic sheet also but will have to look up how to work with it. Assuming it's not practical to simply fix it to the battens/studs, are the tiling board options mentioned the best backing for this also?

 

[Fitzroy]

Thanks
I am considering using acrylic sheet also but will have to look up how to work with it. Assuming it's not practical to simply fix it to the battens/studs, are the tiling board options mentioned the best backing for this also?

My understanding is that the same backing used for tiles is suitable. People online show installation over plasterboard but I would be worried about this just like for tiles.

 

[MikeJhn]

I used Bushboard Nuance for the inside of my shower, easy fixing with their gap filling adhesive and matching mastic guaranteed waterproof.

 

[caitrionahoran]

I've just done our bathroom. Used uPVC wall panels over existing plasterboard but you can fix these straight to the timber battens, quite easy to fit and a lot quicker and cheaper than tiles. Just don't use the crappy plastic corner and end trims the suppliers try to sell you, I used wood mouldings to cover the interior and exterior corners. Used plastic coving from Screwfix around the ceiling and threw the plastic trim in the bin.

For plumbing I used Hep2o plastic. Yes I had a few leaks first time round, then I got used to it and it works brilliantly, would recommend 100%. Never done much in the way of plumbing before but plastic made it very simple and quick. As said by others, get a proper plastic pipe cutter and don't forget to fit the pipe inserts (a source of many of my leaks). I'd advise practising a bit and taking your time to plan the routing of the plumbing.

Also make sure to insert the pipe into the fitting all the way, the pipe has marks on it to help you make sure it is inserted correctly, goes in about an inch. And you can twist the pipe and feel a rumble to confirm it is in correctly. If you use Hep2o you'll also need to buy a demounting tool, I ended up getting the plastic set and the thin metal one for tight spaces. Doesn't work brilliantly, I did end up chucking a couple of fittings because I could not disconnect them, but that's about the only downside I have come across.

+ another 1 for double sealing the tray. On our bath I used (very expensive) CT1 between the bath rim and the wall battens, then good quality silicone sealant around the top edge. No leaks!

Good luck
Steve

Thanks, Steve
I’ve used speedfit piping before and have been happy with the result so will stick to that. Do you have a link for the UPVC sheeting? Have used UPVC cladding on the outside of the building and very happy with that so far but was not very impressed with the corner fittings I bought for that either. Had to glue the two-part outer corner edging in the end.

 

[caitrionahoran]

I used Bushboard Nuance for the inside of my shower, easy fixing with their gap filling adhesive and matching mastic guaranteed waterproof.View attachment 152897

That looks good. Was thinking of doing the whole room in something similar - just not sure how confident I would be sawing it or handling large sheets on my own.

 

[MikeJhn]

I cut on a track saw and hung/placed/stuck all of the panels by myself, I'm seventy five with Arthritis, not much of a problem, Oh and the shower room is upstairs.

Cut from the finished side with as many teeth saw blade as you can get for your plunge tracksaw.

 

[caitrionahoran]

I cut on a track saw and hung/placed/stuck all of the panels by myself, I'm seventy five with Arthritis, not much of a problem, Oh and the shower room is upstairs.

Cut from the finished side with as many teeth saw blade as you can get for your plunge tracksaw.

Thank you
That’s encouraging. My son mentioned a track saw too. Will look them up. Currently I only have sliding mitre saw, reciprocator, jigsaw and of course handsaws but none of those are ideal. I’m in my 60s and also have some arthritis

 

[MikeJhn]

A plunge track saw is almost essential for cutting the boards accurately to length and width, you will need a track that is long enough for the height of the boards, unfortunately they normally only come with two short tracks you may have to buy additional ones to cope with the length, I bought an Excel with two additional 1200mm long tracks and a 60tooth blade.