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katellwood

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Near Dartford, Kent
As can possibly be seen from the following photo’s I am in desperate need of a new bench but other projects (more to follow) have prevented me from starting and continuing with a make do philosophy.

I’ve got the timber (Beech) but apart from a collection of record vices no other ironmongery or fittings

With the upsurge in Roubo styles benches hitting the market and ironmongery for the same being supplied for self builds by Benchcrafted, Maguire, Barron et al I thought I would have a go at producing some of my own.

Starting with two 12” x ¾ x 2 ½ pieces of mild steel (which I forgot to photograph) the following pics should be self-explanatory and comments or suggestions on how to improve will be greatly received











Turned down to 2 ½” dia then :-






Then the first try in a scrap of oak


And the external thread cut on the same lathe with a router mounted on the vertical slide




The first test with the internal thread cut in a scrap piece of English Cherry (after the thread hole was soaked with linseed oil overnight as suggested by Richard Maguire) and the external thread cut in a scrap piece of believed sepele (just what was kicking around the workshop)








I now intend to finish the tap off a little and create some sort of wrench to give me enough torque to create the holes easily
I also intend to case harden the tap so it lasts longer (but couldn’t resist in trying it out prior to hardening)
Thoughts, comments and suggestions welcomed.
 
Woodmonkey":e1e5pv8r said:
Nice. What advantage is there in using a wooden vise screw over a metal one?

Larger thread means less turns from full open to full close - a metal thread takes many many turns, also a wooden thread can still work even with a chunks taken off, whereas a metal one, once chewed becomes almost unworkable.
 
How are you going to harden the mild steel? case hardening is the only thing I can think of.

Pete
 
Any particular reason for choosing to make a (rather magnificent) tap, instead of using a bar with a point cutter, and traversing the nut on the tool post, which would seem easier?

Given your target diameter, your boring bar could be thick enough to really minimise flexing, as well as making the cutter fixing problem simpler.

http://toolingaround.ca/bb.html

BugBear
 
Pete Maddex":10ofu76e said:
How are you going to harden the mild steel? case hardening is the only thing I can think of.

Pete

Yes case hardening, don't know whether to purchase the powder or make my own, do you have a recipe?

bugbear":10ofu76e said:
Any particular reason for choosing to make a (rather magnificent) tap, instead of using a bar with a point cutter, and traversing the nut on the tool post, which would seem easier?

Given your target diameter, your boring bar could be thick enough to really minimise flexing, as well as making the cutter fixing problem simpler.

http://toolingaround.ca/bb.html

BugBear

I appreciate I could make the nuts on the lathe however for bench legs I wanted to put the thread directly into the leg as opposed to fixing the nut to the back of the leg

phil.p":10ofu76e said:
Little Bosch with a 43mm collar? Good, aren't they? :D

Mines a cheap Ferm from screwfix when it finally packs up intend to replace it with a trend

nathandavies":10ofu76e said:
Lovely job. Are you making to order?

not currently as it took a lot of making especially cutting the thread, also lots of other work on (this was done in a 'playing' session in the evening and to see if it could be done)

Thanks all
 
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