I've recently bought a japanese waterstone (6000 grade) to try out and it certainly produces a fine polished surface quicker than a comparable oilstone. But however I try I can't avoid nicking the stone when I start sharpening a micro bevel on a blade. Then it takes me a while to restore the stone with the nagura, so I'm not really saving any time overall. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong please? Many thanks Bill
using waterstone
- Thread starter bill d
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Johnboy
Established Member
Are you just pulling the blade acrross the stone or going back and forth and are you using a honing guide? I use the Veritas Mk11 and just pull the blade along the stone a few times to make the micro bevel.
John
John
David C
In Memorium
On polishing stones,
pull strokes,
and very light force/pressure.
Caress the stone!
david
pull strokes,
and very light force/pressure.
Caress the stone!
david
A
Anonymous
Guest
when I first used waterstones I had problems with trying to take off shavings off the top of the stone 8-[ 
This was due to very poor blade holding technique, I spent a lot of time flatting the stones on glass and emory paper :roll:
I sort of adopted Ian Kirbys way of moving your body weight back and forth while hiolding the blade solid. When folks see me sharpening like that they usually think its a bit odd but so what! I also sometimes use a batton of wood with a kerf in it to support the blade especially smallish ons such as spokeshaves or block plane blades so you can lock it into your wrist better so it doesnt rock or wobble.
Is micro bevel another word for secondary bevel? Never heard of it before
I find when you do a secondry bevel you can "feel" when the blade is at the right angle theres a sort of suction.
Best thing I like about waterstones is they are fast and clean
Cheers Mr Spanton
This was due to very poor blade holding technique, I spent a lot of time flatting the stones on glass and emory paper :roll:
I sort of adopted Ian Kirbys way of moving your body weight back and forth while hiolding the blade solid. When folks see me sharpening like that they usually think its a bit odd but so what! I also sometimes use a batton of wood with a kerf in it to support the blade especially smallish ons such as spokeshaves or block plane blades so you can lock it into your wrist better so it doesnt rock or wobble.
Is micro bevel another word for secondary bevel? Never heard of it before
I find when you do a secondry bevel you can "feel" when the blade is at the right angle theres a sort of suction.
Best thing I like about waterstones is they are fast and clean
Cheers Mr Spanton
Thanks, folks. I was using the same technique as for an oilstone: I've tried pulling the blade instead of pushing it and of course no nicks.
By a micro bevel I was thinking of both a secondary bevel and also a very small bevel on the back (flat) side of a plane blade, so as for example to increase the pitch angle. Thanks again Bill
By a micro bevel I was thinking of both a secondary bevel and also a very small bevel on the back (flat) side of a plane blade, so as for example to increase the pitch angle. Thanks again Bill
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi Bill
Amazing how fast them stones give you a mirror polish isnt it!
And Its also amazing when you have a board thats "smooth" then you go over it with a sharp polished fine set blade and it makes the wood glow and gleam like it was burnished, I like that! I might get a japanese plane one day. Only just got my first japanese blades!
cheers Mr Spanton
Amazing how fast them stones give you a mirror polish isnt it!
And Its also amazing when you have a board thats "smooth" then you go over it with a sharp polished fine set blade and it makes the wood glow and gleam like it was burnished, I like that! I might get a japanese plane one day. Only just got my first japanese blades!
cheers Mr Spanton
bugbear
Established Member
mr spanton":2c90mw88 said:when I first used waterstones I had problems with trying to take off shavings off the top of the stone 8-[
That's what jigs are for!
(BTW, where in North Suffolk are you - I'm in Diss)
BugBear
A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi bugbear
Well like I said I use a slotted batton to support small blades to get a good lock grip and stop them rocking. Thats a simple non gadget type of jig :wink: .
I decided to develop a good blade holding technique rather than rely on yet another woodworking industry gadget. those jig gadgets take time to set up and anyways I dont want a steel roller going up the middle of my stones they soft enough as it is. I reasoned that learning to remember an angle isnt rocket science its just a learned skill. Chairmakers remember what angles to drill the spindles and legs ect, coopers remeber what angles to plane the staves so they all fit. Eskimos can even rembmer which way is north without a compass :shock:?? So I decided to develop that angle memory skill and in actual fact it came in very useful when I laterwent on to sharpen saws. I can honestly say I dont now have a problem with shaving/nicking waterstones.
PS I live just up the road from diss at yaxley.
bugbear":1hllge5l said:
Well like I said I use a slotted batton to support small blades to get a good lock grip and stop them rocking. Thats a simple non gadget type of jig :wink: .
I decided to develop a good blade holding technique rather than rely on yet another woodworking industry gadget. those jig gadgets take time to set up and anyways I dont want a steel roller going up the middle of my stones they soft enough as it is. I reasoned that learning to remember an angle isnt rocket science its just a learned skill. Chairmakers remember what angles to drill the spindles and legs ect, coopers remeber what angles to plane the staves so they all fit. Eskimos can even rembmer which way is north without a compass :shock:?? So I decided to develop that angle memory skill and in actual fact it came in very useful when I laterwent on to sharpen saws. I can honestly say I dont now have a problem with shaving/nicking waterstones.
PS I live just up the road from diss at yaxley.
bugbear
Established Member
mr spanton":110ifq4f said:
Damn! I do have a local saw sharpener
I've probably bid against you at Gazes...
BugBear
A
Anonymous
Guest
Is that as in thomas gaze auctioneers? I havent been to one of their functions yet, But frankly I've no need of any more saws anyway I have a small stock of ecxellent xamples diston, old S&J etc enough to last me several lifetimes, some in greater need of restoration than others. You can only use one saw at a time!
bugbear
Established Member
mr spanton":1zfe9i2t said:
Oh, in that case, I definitely wouldn't start, if I were you. Horrible place :wink:
Yeah, but having a (ahem) wide range increases the probablity that the one saw you're using is juuust right for the job
BugBear
ByronBlack
Established Member
David is spot on (of course he is )
You need really light pressure! Also, the method of holding the chisel and your arms still and rocking your body back and forth is an excellent technique. I was taught this on the Bruce Luckhurst course, and it allows me to sharpen pretty much any angle bevel consistently without the need of a jig, I also have more control over the pressure applied.
After a couple of hours using this technique, should get more in-tune with the stone. I buggered my polish stone a few times when I first started, but now I have the hang of it, I get really good results.
)You need really light pressure! Also, the method of holding the chisel and your arms still and rocking your body back and forth is an excellent technique. I was taught this on the Bruce Luckhurst course, and it allows me to sharpen pretty much any angle bevel consistently without the need of a jig, I also have more control over the pressure applied.
After a couple of hours using this technique, should get more in-tune with the stone. I buggered my polish stone a few times when I first started, but now I have the hang of it, I get really good results.
bugbear
Established Member
ByronBlack":3utin8io said:
Yeah - I do it when forced.
It's very accurate, but insanely inefficient.
Moving your entire body mass around for the purpose of moving 2 Oz of metal across an abrasive is not desirable, if you can avoid it.
BugBear
A
Anonymous
Guest
No ones trying to force you to do anything are they bug?
I have never thought of my way of sharpening as insanely ineficient, but if it is so what, it works very well for me I get mega sharp edges that cut beautifully and thats what counts. What IS insanely ineficcient is having a bunch of clumsily sharpened blades that wont cut well and which doesnt let you work to the best of your abilty, to the point where you can get disiluusioned and think of giving up. So if one dued wants to use a norton, charneley wood, another uses scare sharp waterstone buffy wheel roofing slate or back door step or whatever, thats cool by me 8)
cheers Mr Spanton 8)
I have never thought of my way of sharpening as insanely ineficient, but if it is so what, it works very well for me I get mega sharp edges that cut beautifully and thats what counts. What IS insanely ineficcient is having a bunch of clumsily sharpened blades that wont cut well and which doesnt let you work to the best of your abilty, to the point where you can get disiluusioned and think of giving up. So if one dued wants to use a norton, charneley wood, another uses scare sharp waterstone buffy wheel roofing slate or back door step or whatever, thats cool by me 8)
cheers Mr Spanton 8)
bugbear
Established Member
mr spanton":1l9pa0rw said:
I meant forced as in no other option - some blades are just tricky. This technique (for me) is a fallback option.
I'm talking about energy efficiency - not "effectiveness", which is different.
What works - works. No argument there. BTW, for future archive searches, the green stone is "Charnley Forest"
BugBear
