UKJ Mitre Fence Problem

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PlacidCasual

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Hi peeps

I took advantage of a recent Axminster offer to buy the UKJ mitre fence for £49 instead of normal £90+. It’s a nice bit of kit short fence with and end stop and the presets on the mitre angles are pretty tight when the mitre is untightened and solid when tightened.

I had planned to use it on my Axminster HB310 (if memory serves) bandsaw. Problem is the mitre bar doesn’t fit the mitre groove. I happen to have a length of UKJ mitre track that intend to add to my home build router table. The mitre in unsurprisingly fits nicely. The UKJ mitre bar is a few thou wider than the awful mitre that came with the band saw but over 8” that’s enough friction/interference to make it unusable.

So i’m Wondering if there is any relatively straightforward way to widen the mitre track on the bandsaw a few thou, ideally in situ without removing table to a workshop to mill. Mostly because the design of the table is an utter barsteward to build and thus strip down thanks to some non captive inaccessible fasteners.

Any help much appreciated.
 

sunnybob

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The UJK bar has small adjusting set screws in the sides of it.
have you adjusted these?

It fits my axminster 350 table very well (once adjusted)
 

PlacidCasual

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Sadly we’re not even getting that far. The first 5mm has lost the black coating trying to get it into the mitre slot. But even jamming it in isn’t a solution as the friction increases 5he further I push it. I’ll have to get the vernier out but I reckon at present I have a 1 thou interference slot to bar, without reaching the grub screws.
 

sunnybob

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Do you have any other jig that uses the slot on the table saw?

If not, I would cut a strip of wood just wide enough to allow you to put sandpaper along one edge and sand the slot wider.
The UJK is a standard fit, so your table slot must be too small. making it wider to the standard size will be a bonus to you.
 

Lons

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If it's as little as that, can you not route it out? Presumably it's a cast iron table and the material isn't too hard so a standard VS router and preferably carbide cutter should handle it.

Alternatively reduce the width on the bar then adjust for the other machines when required using the grub screws. Not the best solution though if swapping regularly.

edit
Just looked and there are a few videos on youtube
 

TFrench

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I had a similar issue with my Kity table saw. The existing mitre fence fitted well in the track so I used a transfer punch to transfer the holes and drilled and tapped the existing mitre bar to fit the ujk fence. Completely reversible should you wish to sell either part in future!
 

PlacidCasual

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Thx for the responses guys.

The sanding option appeals rather than routing, I’ve never been a machinist and worry about making a hash.

Any suggestions on type and grade of abrasive. Also would I need to hone/polish to finish? My gut feeling is for slot surface finish not crucial so long as flat.
 

sunnybob

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You dont want a polished surface. It sticks.
Thats why cast iron appears so coarse on the table tops, it allows wood to slide freely.

I would use 150 grit to start, 240, and then and 320 grit to finish.

Mark the whole edge with felt tip marker so you can check on metal removal.
the secret is making sure you have a long flat piece of wood to use as a sanding block. You MUST file the whole edge evenly.
And check often, too wide is almost as much faff as too narrow.
 
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