Tulipwood for internal doors

[trumpetmonkey]

I have a commission to make custom size internal double doors, with a full height glazing panel in each, to be painted white. I proposed using Sapele; 35 x 94mm finished sizes for stiles and top rail, 35 x 144 for bottom rails.

My contact at Arnold Lavers has proposed using Tulipwood as a cheaper alternative.

Any experience of using Tulipwood, and any advice comparative to Sapele? Just want something straight grained and stable that will take paint well.

 

[Dibs-h]

I have a commission to make custom size internal double doors, with a full height glazing panel in each, to be painted white. I proposed using Sapele; 35 x 94mm finished sizes for stiles and top rail, 35 x 144 for bottom rails.

My contact at Arnold Lavers has proposed using Tulipwood as a cheaper alternative.

Any experience of using Tulipwood, and any advice comparative to Sapele? Just want something straight grained and stable that will take paint well.

Tulipwood takes paint very well - folk on have used it here for the doors, etc. of painted kitchens.

HIH

Dibs

 

[jasonB]

It does all the things you want but can be a little soft so can dent easily, OK for bedroom furniture but I wouldn't go for it in a kitchen. So if the doors are in say a well used hallway then go with sapele, if they won't get much use then tulip will be fine.

If they are full floor to ceiling then I'd think about going to 44mm. I have recently done a pair 2600 tall and went for 3 layers of 15mm MR MDF and hardwood lipped on the long edges.

J

 

[tomatwark]

I use Tulipwood (Poplar) all the time for painted kitchens and furniture and have also made painted internal doors with no problems at all.

It is widely used for kitchens that are painted as it takes a great paint finish and is easy to work and mould.

I would agree with Jason that if the doors are full room height make them 44mm thick.

Tom

 

[trumpetmonkey]

They are tall, and main access route from main door through into kitchen. Is it as soft as pine (eg redwood)?
Price from Lavers is very good, better than Sapele. And am I right in thinking Sapele would paint less well due to pores?

Yes, I think I will take your advice and go to 44mm, so it'll be 50mm rough boards. Otherwise the 38mm boards would have probably ended up at 32mm.

I've never heard of making doors in MDF as you said. I guess you could create lapped joints, like bridle joints, as you glue up with the 3 layers, is that what you did?

 

[trumpetmonkey]

I use Tulipwood (Poplar)

It is the same as poplar?? Is it likely to be local UK grown stuff then?

 

[tomatwark]

I use Tulipwood (Poplar)

It is the same as poplar?? Is it likely to be local UK grown stuff then?

No it is just sometimes known as Poplar.

Have a look at this, which will help explain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tulipwood

Tom

 

[jasonB]

I usually have the mid layer a sa solid board, just cut out for glazed openings and then glue styles & rails to this. If you make them wider on one side than the other you get an instant rebate. Provided you make them up on a flat surface they don't move like solid wood can.

Have not got a pic of the ones I mentioned above, waiting for clients painter to paint them but these, this slider and this all use the same basic method, thicknesses vary a bit and the last one has an ultralite MDF core.

Tulip (north American Poplar) is a bit harder than cedar and a little softer than unsorted redwood

J

 

[trumpetmonkey]

The range of different names for any given timber is quite bewildering. How do you guys get a hold on it, just experience?

jasonB you are onto a winner with your MDF doors method, I will be using the idea I hope thats ok. Such a simple and obvious idea, like all the best ones! Is one of those doors external? Do you have full confidence in it for weather and damage resistance? I have an innate suspicion of MDF, but I have not used the moisture resistant stuff.

Tulip (north American Poplar) is a bit harder than cedar and a little softer than unsorted redwood

Sounds pretty soft for a hardwood, wondering if I might regret it for these doors...?

 

[Anonymous]

just use sapeli. or us redwood? no point in trying to cut costs!

 

[twothumbs]

Be careful when using mdf for door leafs and make sure, as I am sure you will, to insert fixings carefully. Bore holes and use small countersinks as in metal working. Good as mdf frames can be, I will not use them on larger jobs when workmanship may not be perfect, as the initial advantages can in time be overtaken when doors drop and fixings are pulled from the frames. For you doing the leafs personally that will not be a problem. Leafs may be heavy at about 60kgs (if my maths is correct) so possible 11/2 pairs of hinges (2 at top) per leaf, with advantages of stable, straight, non twisting and good lengths of mdf for glueing. Everyone of course has their own experiences. Good work to you.

 

[jasonB]

No I'm not a fan of MDF frames/linings either

All those doors are internal, wouldn't want to do it with MDF even Exterior. The MR can swell by about 40% if you get it wet enough.

On the subject of fixings on those heavy sliders I cut a dovetail shaped slot for each bracket about 150x75 out of the middle layer and glue in a suitably shaped bit of hardwood to take the fixings. And on the hinged doors a good full depth pilot hole is needed to avoid the risk of the MDF splitting

Weight wise the middle layer if its a panel door I will use either ultralite MDF or Medite premier as its quite a bit less weight than MR and as there are no exposed edges you don't have to worry about them fluffing up.

J