Absolutely agree on the principles - and when you do upgrade/replace if the kit has been looked after it'll sell on ebay or Gumtree et al so there is a contribution to the new expenditure. My £100 Macallister track saw does the job that I need for the moment (with replaced blade from Saxon)I understand your points, but it would mean any beginner/hobbyist/DIYer or even some professional joiners/carpenters/makers would literally need several thousands of pounds worth of stuff before they even glued two pieces of wood together.
The reality is, everyone starts with what they can afford, and builds up from there. The experience, enjoyment and progress along the way is what counts.
The person who can't afford a £350 tripod when starting out can still enjoy their craft/hobby, AND possibly produce better art than someone with all the gear and no idea.
Back to track saws, I am very happy with my £70 Parkside saw, it works and is safe (as far as I can see, unless someone can tell me otherwise, very happy to learn that).
Have I upgraded? yes.
Was it the wrong decision to buy it, as a first time user not sure if I want to make things? Absolutely not. And, eventually, all tools will bite the dust.
If you are saying that someone who has the money to spend chooses not to buy something good in the face of good advice, that's another issue...
Sorry but the above is not correct. The Mafell track saw (MT55) scoring cut is 0.1 mm to the left of the line used for the actual cut. It actually confirms this in the marketing blurb.I first saw a mafell demo with the earlier plunge-on rods-like-a-router track saw, where the scoring cut was done backwards (climb cut) about 2mm deep followed by a normal cut at full depth. A very convincing result! I Later upgraded to the latest pivot plunge model because the scoring function was built in. There is no sideways movement involved. The saw is set to the desired depth; for a scoring cut Mafell reccomends engaging the scoring function which just limits the plunge, and making a normal cut of 3mm depth. The saw is returned and a full depth pass made. The shallow cut does reduce chipping quite well, but it's much better to score with a climb cut, drawing the saw toward yourself. This is potentially dangerous if you forget to engage the plunge limit.
I believe the mafell automatic saw which has a powered traverse along the track and back again, does have a miniscule side shift for the scoring cut, but this costs several thousand. Presumably reviews which assumed the plunge saw had the same feature, were not vigorously denied by the manufacturer, and the idea still circulates.
If you're not shure about shelling out, look out for a Lidl plunge saw, 3yr g'tee, costs about £69 with 2 short pieces of track. Buy some festool track (I use this with the mafell as it is more rigid over a full sheet) which will be useful later if you upgrade. I bought one for rough work - some site work at my parents' house. It works well, is quite sturdy, but presumably will wear out qute quickly. Incidentally their 12v drill bought for the same work (£14 with 2Ah battery and charger in a Lidl sale) is amazing at the price, and extra L-ion batteries are still just over a tenner.
Couldn't agree more. Budget does have a huge factor in all of this but having been the impatient one on many occasions i have bought and regretted many a tool, whereas if i had waited and saved it would have saved me more. Its taken me far too long to realise and put into practise but, buy it once and buy it right is definitely the best piece of advice i have ever been given and the bonus is use the tool and the good stuff always has a decent resale value.Here is a journey of learning I made many years ago, twenty plus when I was into photography. I was looking at buying a tripod, now given all my years of experience in engineering and was given expert advice from experienced photographers I thought that a tripod was just a three legged item to sit the camera on so ignored it all and brought a £60 job. Soon having issues with the leg clamps and all I got from the guys in the know was "told you so". Went out and brought a better one for about £115 and less issues with the leg clamps but still not happy as it was not solid enough and some images were just not sharp. Last resort went a looked at the advice given and types of tripod recomended, went out and purchased a Gitzo 2220 tripod and ball head for about £350 and never looked back, easy to setup, rigid with no noticable resonance and could get so low. Sold the other two at a loss but gained a valuable lesson.
@beech1948 Would love to see some pics I've been thinking of similar things after seeing Peter's video's and Matt Elsa's, although my additional new bench won't be as big as yoursI bought a Bosch track saw and 4 pieces of track inc a very long one. I have found it to be at least as good as Festool with a few added extras. eg The individual tracks are longer so better loading and unloading. Superb track joiner is much better than Festool.
I was late to getting a track saw and thought it was the dog's whatsits. That feeling was mirrored when I made myself a second bench 8x4 with 2x3/4 inch birch ply top with holes all over them to give me a massive MFT style top. Drawers and cupboards underneath on both sides and mounted on industrial castors/legs. An absolute game changer when matched to the track saw and a dozen bench dogs from company of the same name.
Now adding in along one long side two 4ft pieces with T track across the top edge and about 150 mm deep. When installed I will match this to a modified Bosch track to give me an MFT style hinged length of track. This bench makes a great assembly table as well.
Have you tried the dust extraction? Any good? I’m not expecting perfect, but removing enough dust to keep the blade happy and my nose from running.. I’m happy to clean up a bit afterwards.After seeing all of Peters tracksaw videos and having just built a garage that needed shelving, cabinets and a bench making I bought the Erbauer saw. My heart wanted the Festool, but I just couldn't justify the extra £300 or so, plus any extra rails I may need. Using some of what I've saved I bought the 3m Makita rail. I've only made some shelves so far out of cheap hardwood ply and from someone who's only ever done 'functional' wood wood before now with a hand me down circular saw that's older than me, I was amazed. My brother has also been borrowing it (as well as my garage, it incredible how people suddenly had jobs to do when you've got a big garage!) to cut laminated ply panels for his campervan and the cuts, at least to our eyes, are damn near perfect. I'm not suggesting it's as good as the Festool, but for occasional use I'm really impressed with it.
I have yes, albeit only with an old Henry hoover. Like many seem to do, I taped over the hole for the blade retaining bolt and whilst it probably won't score that highly in Peter Millard's black bag dust test, the extraction does seem to work well. My biggest problem is usually remembering to turn the hoiver on, which if I don't usually means suddenly being surrounded by sawdust. I have used it with just the dust bag on the back, and whilst it is better than nothing, it's obviously not as good as an extractor and if used for more than a few cuts at a time can block the port. But overall I'm pleased with it. I'm sure the likes of the Festool etal would all be a marked improvement, but after only using a 30yr old black and decker circular saw with no extraction it's a vast improvement. Although the last few jobs I've been doing in the garage, mostly shelves, I've also been using a router for dado slots and roundovers, any dust extraction gained when using the track saw and extractor is soon negated, routers are just plain messy no matter what I do. I'm hoping to make a router flattening jig sometime this year and that will bring a new level of mess!Have you tried the dust extraction? Any good? I’m not expecting perfect, but removing enough dust to keep the blade happy and my nose from running.. I’m happy to clean up a bit afterwards.
How many accidents did you have with your cheaper tripods?Here is a journey of learning I made many years ago, twenty plus when I was into photography. I was looking at buying a tripod, now given all my years of experience in engineering and was given expert advice from experienced photographers I thought that a tripod was just a three legged item to sit the camera on so ignored it all and brought a £60 job. Soon having issues with the leg clamps and all I got from the guys in the know was "told you so". Went out and brought a better one for about £115 and less issues with the leg clamps but still not happy as it was not solid enough and some images were just not sharp. Last resort went a looked at the advice given and types of tripod recomended, went out and purchased a Gitzo 2220 tripod and ball head for about £350 and never looked back, easy to setup, rigid with no noticable resonance and could get so low. Sold the other two at a loss but gained a valuable lesson.
I was using my Festool a while ago and a local builder was watching me. He started picking my brains on track saws as he said he was thinking of getting one. I like to think of myself as quite knowledgeable on the subject so I gave him a good rundown on the pros and cons of all the different models from Lidl up to Festool and jokingly said but if you want the best get a Mafell. I saw him a couple of weeks later and thrown in the back of his pickup among the sand and breeze blocks was a Mafell saw and a couple of rails I had expected him to just nip along to Screwfix and pick up an Erbauer or something, when I asked why he got the Mafell he just said "Well you said it was the best?"!I've decided to go for the Mafell, just purchased and waiting on delivery in a few days. I'll let you know my thoughts, and as I've mentioned above, I have the cheaper Erbauer to compare with.
For me the positive reviews and YouTube videos from the likes to Robin Clevett, and the apparently superior rails were the reasons for the purchase over the Festool.
BHwoodworking, why do you say "avoid Dewalt"?avoid dewalt. arbour rpm is slower. = chip out par exelance.
makita isnt bad, but it still doesnt have the festool feel. festool invented the things.
get festool. thats the only really nice TS i have used
cant comment on maffel and bisch basch bosch