Tool Sharpener Advice

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cjp

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Chagford, Devon
Hi all,

I'm looking to sharpen up my chisels and irons. While I have perfected the art of sharpening some old chisels I have using just an oilstone - the better set I have are just too damn tough and take forever to do by hand. And I don't fancy to the plane irons by hand either.

As such I'm looking at a bench grinder. So far I'm torn between going the cheaper route - £66 for the Axminster AWDWSG Wetstone Grinder (http://bit.ly/92BUu8) - but on top of that I'd need a couple of jigs.

Or going the more expensive route and getting a Worksharp system (Rutlands have one for £199 http://bit.ly/bF64no + free leather honing kit).

Though I only woodwork in evenings and weekends, I plan on doing a lot of it and so the last thing I really want to do is spend too long sharpening tools. I also plan on using a lot of hand tools before moving onto power tools.

As such I'm leaning towards the Worksharp as it requires no water, so less mess and has all the preset angles I'll need.

So perhaps I've answered my own question. But any thoughts anyone? I'm well aware I may just be getting the newbie draw towards shiny expensive systems which perhaps are more than I need. But it does seem like a good deal!

Cheers,

Charlie
 
MickCheese":2lhmt29o said:
If you do a search for sharpening you will be inundated with replies. Everyone seems to have an opinion and none are the same.

Have a look here

Workshop Heaven

lot of shiny things

Mick

I've got the Veritas Mk II (IIRC) and some of Workshop Heaven's scary sharp papers. Works a treat!

HIH

Dibs
 
Your question prompted me to look in more details at the Work Sharp and it does get good reviews. But it's £200, that's quite expensive.

I'm sure someone who has one will be along soon as I would like to know what it is like in the real world.

Mick
 
I think Olly (OPJ) recommends the Worksharp system and I know it's had good reviews in the press. Matthew has some good stuff at Workshop Heaven for honing (I also use the 3M papers which are great) but for primary bevel grinding there's little to beat a Tormek...but it costs a lot more than £200 - Rob
 
Yes, as Rob says, I am an advocate of the Work Sharp 3000. Personally, I wouldn't bother looking at the smaller 2000 model though as, after realising what it could do, you'd probably wish you'd bought the more versatile 3000 model! :wink:

It's an excellent piece of kit for getting a super sharp, accurate edge on your tools. So simple to setup and use. It's also very safe and, provided you use the abrasive discs supplied with the machine, you'll find it's very difficult to overheat the steel or even create a single spark. 8)

My only disappoint is that it isn't ideal for heavy re-grinding (along with the cost of new abrasives, bought directly from Rutlands... :p). For that, I'd recommend keeping a cheap 6in bench grinder near by although, you have to apply a lot of care with those in order to keep the steel cool.

Saying that, I (still!) haven't yet tried using any very coarse-grade abrasives (60g or even 40g). Okay, I've used aluminium oxide but, it doesn't last very long. Silicon carbide discs only seem to be available in a minimum quantity of 25 per pack. Even still, they they may not be as effective as a high-speed grinder - one day, I'll find out for myself! :)

There are plenty of videos on YouTube demonstrating just what this model can do. I agree that £200 is a steep initial outlay but, if you're likely to need accurate and repeatable results on a regular basis then, it would be worth the investment, in my opinion. When it comes down to it, it's no more than what you might spend on a brand-new planer, thicknesser or bandsaw... :)

Whatever system you decide to go with, you're going to have to spend some money. At the very least, I'd recommend a 6in bench grinder for the initial grinding work (£20-30?). But, if you don't get on with the standard wheels then, you may want to invest in a Norton 3X wheel, which should help to keep the steel from bluing. You'll probably want some kind of tool rest as well, for repeatable results. Cheaper ones tend to start at around £20 or, you could make your own from wood offcuts.

I don't think those types of grinders are ideal for honing though; for which you may want either a small set of sharpening stones or you could try the 3M papers, as suggested above.

Hope this helps! :)
 
Second what Olly says. I've tried them all. This is the best...for me.

You'll need the adapter to do plane blades or make one from MDF if you already have a sharpening guide such as the veritas.
 
+1 for olly's statement I have had my worksharp for about 3 or 4 months now going on recommendation from here when i asked a similar question.

The reason i wanted a sharpener was because I could n't sharpen for toffee & someone else always sharpened my tools for me by hand I thought the person who did this did an excellent job, then I changed jobs & I needed to sharpen my tools myself.
The staff had a collection before I left & I bought the worksharp 3000 with the money I then spent an afternoon doing the tools that had been sharpened before & boy what a differnce the 3000 made!

Honestly the £200 is worth everypenny I can't wait to rehone the tools already sharpened or to sharpen any future purchases
 
I use mine throughout the day just to flatten the back when the edge is starting to go which brings the edge up a treat. I'm thinking of getting a second platter that will be the 'platter-in-residence' and have the same grit on both sides..so I can tweak up the bevel and back very easily.
 
RogerS":1ccde62g said:
I use mine throughout the day just to flatten the back when the edge is starting to go which brings the edge up a treat. I'm thinking of getting a second platter that will be the 'platter-in-residence' and have the same grit on both sides..so I can tweak up the bevel and back very easily.

And Just To confirm I did enquiry from a glass firm off the web for a quote for the glass platters they wanted £15 +V.A.T + £11 Delivery so at the moment rutlands are still cheaper by a couple of quid.
 
Or, you could make your own from 12mm MDF - wax it on both sides so the PSA doesn't stick. 8) :wink:
 
The Worksharp is discs of abrasives powered by a motor, right? So it's Scary Sharp but with a power cord. Apply elbow grease instead of electricity and even with a fancy honing guide (lots of bells, whistles and shiny things) and a wider range of abrasives than Norton's warehouse, I reckon you could save yourself at least 100 quid. Plus, when the lights go out 'cos the gas pipeline's been cut, you'll at least be able to get on with sharpening your tools... :wink: No brainer as far as I can see.
 
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