spanner48
Established Member
Thanks dalboy; those are two useful leads. The cordless one in particular looks suitable. Just a pity it's from China . . . .
Power file for saw sharpening
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Corset
Established Member
Hi i have two complete foley resharpening machines, filers, retoothers and carriages and one setters. Might condider parting with one if someone wants to pm me. I have the all
Important rack and pinion guides and the manuals.
Important rack and pinion guides and the manuals.
Tweedy
Established Member
I do a bit of saw restoration myself. When I come across a saw with broken teeth, I have a jig using an angle grinder, slitting disc and a couple of reference surfaces/points to get consistent depth of cut and tooth spacing.
Once I have run the saw through that, I file away any remaining material. Still a lot of filing but less than otherwise and faster to depth.
It's not pretty, in time I would like to build a better machine, using either a press to recut teeth or a circular cutter like on a yale key duplicate machine.
Once I have run the saw through that, I file away any remaining material. Still a lot of filing but less than otherwise and faster to depth.
It's not pretty, in time I would like to build a better machine, using either a press to recut teeth or a circular cutter like on a yale key duplicate machine.
The drawback of the one I looked at it it seems to only have a stroke of 4mm! Maybe I am mis reading the description, seems very short.
Old.bodger
Established Member
For handheld, there is the diprofil hand filing machine. Runs off a flexshaft drive, relatively common on ebay. They have a lot of different attachments for polishing and filing odd shapes. Static die filers are harder to come by and can command a pretty good price. I have had and sold a couple of the benchtop ones. In my own collection I've got an elliott No.2 (smaller brother of the one on ebay posted previously) that I restored a couple of years ago - I think I posted it on here, I'll try to find the thread to bump it up. Personally I think its not the right fit for what you're doing - cutting them all of with a grinder in a jig then recutting with a flypress sounds a much faster and repeatable method if you do it a lot...
spanner48
Established Member
I think maybe I mis-described the issue. Often, it's not a matter of complete jointing and starting with a new set of teeth; rather that of evening out "Cow & Calf" unevenness BETWEEN adjacent teeth - normally caused by previous poor sharpening practice. Then each gullet has to be filed individually, pushing sideways against the 'Cow' and away from the 'Calf' until the gullets and the tooth spacing is even.
Yes, a complete jointing and recut would be quicker and more thorough. But the saws I get are aften already partly "sharpened-out", with limited blade depth remaining. So best is to be as conservative as possible: only removing metal where absolutely necessary – to acheive a straight, even toothline based on the deepest [uneven] gullet.
So it really has to be handheld.
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