Tenon saw is not sawing coplanarly

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Hey, this is looking pretty good!

Refering to that split - after the cutting and when you start fitting the parts together, develop a sense of the friction between the parts and where it might be too much and needs easing before you tap things fully home. The more practice you get at cutting, the more confidence you will have, and the less trimming will be needed.
Thanks, I just need to get there. Too much hammering, and the joint will crack. Too much pairing and it will be loose. I hope the sawing technique will get better and less trimming will be required.
 
Thanks, I just need to get there. Too much hammering, and the joint will crack. Too much pairing and it will be loose. I hope the sawing technique will get better and less trimming will be required.
I've no shame or pride that I wouldn't give a transfer a go, even though I've never seen anyone doing it, but then there isn't much I've read/watched where someone cut such large joinery apart from softwoods or house framing, some do chalk or water which is similar principal to graphite.

In my opinion its a sure way of getting one out of a rock and a hard place,
and might highlight further any minute tweaks/adjustments one might wish to make to their sawing technique.
 
Trouble is, you're trying for a perfect fit to a joint which originally wasn't designed to form a perfect fit, but just be strong enough for the job in hand.

If you want a perfect interference fit on all faces, each time, on such a large joint, it's a case of sawing and paring to fit. But then you need to live in hope that the timber won't shrink in the long run.

Hope that helps.
 
I find it quite interesting to see someone seeing how good one can get straight off the saw, the same as with thinner stock.
Not that it might be of any use for Tibi, but just for kicks I may as well mention,
On one of Cosman's youtubes, he demonstrated how off one can be, on such thin stock for drawers or the likes, with a square butted against the work, and lamp shining on the work and the kerf just about established/marked with the saw, interesting to see what might seem 100%
might not quite be so over 10" !
so it possibly might be worth seeing if one can gain and extra 1 or 2% here doing such a job.
 
Just a passing thought: maybe the reason that freehand sawing DTs is so easy and successful is that you are not trying to align the cut by eye against a short pencil line, but against the whole workpiece and/or the bench itself if using the vice.
Also you are not going to forcibly correct a cut and drive it off line even more.
Still have to take marks from the pinholes to the pins so no freehand there.
The angle may be off a touch but could be a neater fit. Definitely much quicker.
 
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