TheTiddles
Established Member
Just added the shelves to this piece:
Made from teak veneered ply with solid door frames, finish is just a heavy coat of teak oil. It still needs some handles/knobs added. The stainless ones I had were too large and I think it needs something shiny in the centre instead of wooded ones.
It's the first time I've used teak and it's probably going to be the last, it's eye-wateringly expensive, the material that only just covered the door frames was £35 and as you can see, I still ended up using a slightly scabby bit on one stile. It blunts tools after a few swipes and leaves nasty splinters in your hands to go hunting for later on in the day with a pair of tweezers. However, it finishes fantastically, sand and oil to leave a defect free finish in minutes.
I used commercial cabinet hangers from Hafele, it does mean you need to leave a large (20mm) gap behind the back panel, but together with nice strong metal wall hangers you can just drop the cabinet onto the wall, level it off and tighten it onto the wall in a matter of a minute or two. The holes to allow access to the adjustment screws have been plugged with mushroom-head plugs friction fitted into the holes.
I think the knbs are going to have to be turned from aluminium, that'll be a nice messy job!
Aidan
Made from teak veneered ply with solid door frames, finish is just a heavy coat of teak oil. It still needs some handles/knobs added. The stainless ones I had were too large and I think it needs something shiny in the centre instead of wooded ones.
It's the first time I've used teak and it's probably going to be the last, it's eye-wateringly expensive, the material that only just covered the door frames was £35 and as you can see, I still ended up using a slightly scabby bit on one stile. It blunts tools after a few swipes and leaves nasty splinters in your hands to go hunting for later on in the day with a pair of tweezers. However, it finishes fantastically, sand and oil to leave a defect free finish in minutes.
I used commercial cabinet hangers from Hafele, it does mean you need to leave a large (20mm) gap behind the back panel, but together with nice strong metal wall hangers you can just drop the cabinet onto the wall, level it off and tighten it onto the wall in a matter of a minute or two. The holes to allow access to the adjustment screws have been plugged with mushroom-head plugs friction fitted into the holes.
I think the knbs are going to have to be turned from aluminium, that'll be a nice messy job!
Aidan
