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Table saw Blades - seeking advice & information

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Tezza1

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Hi all

I've briefly searched the forums past threads on table saw blades but have been unable to find the information I'm seeking. Not saying it isn't there... just that I didn't happen upon it - there are 50+ pages and could be there but spread throughout different postings. All depends on the search term used.

I'm after some advice, information and guidance as to what blades I should be considering adding to use with the table saw I purchased - a cheap (Screwfix purchased) TITAN 1500W table saw (TTB763TAS) purchased just over a year ago.

It came with a 40 T, 250mm, 30mm bore blade and I purchased an 80 T blade (after watching a YT video) for fine work/sled cutting... which I've not used yet as I've done very little cross cutting - only ripping; mainly softwoods and, recently, some figured maple. I found the maple dulled the blade and I purchased another set of (cheap?) blades from Toolstation round the corner from me - I needed a sharp/er 40 T quickly and couldn't wait delivery times for dearer, better (?) quality one. The Toolstation set was a 40 & 60 T at £21.53 the pair. Having ripped the maple and some more softwood I've found the blade to be dulled again and a covering of wood resins/sap (?) on the teeth. So... some questions I am asking;

1/ is there something that can be sprayed on or applied to the blade/s before or during use that will cut down the residues sticking to the blade/s to save some time cleaning etc? If not;

2/ Is a 40 T blade what I should be using for 'general' sawing/ripping of timbers or should I be using a coarser blade - 35 T or less even? As the 40 T came with the saw I've considered it as for all "general" work.

3/ What blades should I have - have others got - to use with a table saw... and for what types of wood and sawing be be efficient? (Ripping, crosscutting... etc.) As I've now got a 60 & 80 plus the 2 x 40 teeth should I have a coarser (24/35) blade...

4/ Any recommended sources/names of manufacturers/suppliers... without breaking the bank financially as it's a "hobby" and not full time employment - pensions don't go far enough 😉😊

Thanks in advance
Morning,
I have previously mentioned on another query that I highly recommend Trend saw blades. I have interrogated the Trend website for the particular blade sizes available and also e mailed their technical department for additional information. I did not purchase direct from Trend, instead I sourced from Abbey Power Tools on ebay.
I have a Bosch table saw - 216mm blade diameter with 24 teeth. The finish is very good on all wood types.
Hope this helps.
 

chris.gid

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+1 for CMT Orange blades.
Bought an Axminister contractor 24t blade as i was in the shop a few weeks ago and was the same price as getting my original DeWalt blade sharpened......meh for the blade, its OK but CMT is noticeably better quality.
 

Pete Hughes

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Good morning Frank,
I use Screwfix Erbauer blades in my Scheppache site saw which is used for hobby use. I buy the 300mm the largest my saw can take. Before that I was ready to sell the saw and invest in a cast iron one. Absolutely no need now, I’m made up with the working/cutting of the saw.
Regards, Pete
 

sawdustandwax

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+1 for the erbauer blades. Use a 250mm 24T blades to rip hardwoods and they cut and last very well. With different woods the finish cut varies, but it's always good. I read somewhere that the harder the material being cut the softer the tct needs to be and vice-versa. Explains why these do not last cutting ply with all that hard glue. For cross-cutting work freud blades are used, but will look at that Sheffield company.
 

yorkshirepudding

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I recently bought a blade from SWEDEX. I hadn’t heard of them before but the cut is amazingly good, better than my Festool. They are expensive at £90 but should re-sharpen several times. I highly recommend them.
 

recipio

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If you are changing blades a riving knife can be a nuisance as it can jam the wood especially using narrow kerf blades.I have a DeWalt with no knife and never had a problem. Just heed the warning signs of the wood beginning to bind and burning.You will get away with a combination blade ripping up to about 40mm but anything over that should have a rip blade.
 

Sideways

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If you are changing blades a riving knife can be a nuisance as it can jam the wood especially using narrow kerf blades.I have a DeWalt with no knife and never had a problem. Just heed the warning signs of the wood beginning to bind and burning.You will get away with a combination blade ripping up to about 40mm but anything over that should have a rip blade.
OK - I'll be the one to say it.
STUPID ADVICE. LAZY. IGNORE.
Do you jump red traffic lights too ?

You can't sue the internet when it all goes wrong ....
 

accipiter

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If you are changing blades a riving knife can be a nuisance as it can jam the wood especially using narrow kerf blades.I have a DeWalt with no knife and never had a problem. Just heed the warning signs of the wood beginning to bind and burning.You will get away with a combination blade ripping up to about 40mm but anything over that should have a rip blade.
Thanks about the 40mm depth. I've been doing 50mm and upwards to 125mm - having to flip the wood over for stuff over 75mm... the table saw does up to 80mm.

Not had issues with the riving knife when changing the blades I presently have. The only time I've felt the riving knife a nuisance is when I've wanted to cut timber over 75/80mm or to cut some rebates down a length of timber - because the knife for the table I have is taller than the blade and the saw guard is attached to the knife - - - easy to remove the guard but...

When I have had to cut the rebates etc., I've then removed the knife BUT I've then clamped a piece of wood over the blade with blocks either side so the wood will pass under that. *Should the blade bind/grip the wood and lift it up - which has happened - it's been stopped coming back over at me because of the home made timber guard*. It's worked but not something I recommend. A thin wedge of wood pushed in at the bind overcomes it but... a pain in the rear. Hence a shorter riving knife being made otherwise I'd have to resort to cutting the one that came with the table saw.[/QUOTE]
 

accipiter

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I really appreciate everyone's comments, input and information and reference guides given.

I've now committed myself to the twin pack of Freud blades mentioned earlier from Byaparcel so will see how things progress.

With the prices mentioned by some of you it's been a bit eyewatering... I think the blades would feel let down by being attavhed to the Tritan TS 😂😁😂 I'd probably be embarrased to put them to such quality as the price for the table saw last year was £99 and I managed to get £25 refund after some issues over bolts & washers 😂.

I'm now also weighing up price of blades and re-sharpening costs - as well as if anyone locally does such a service. 30 years ago it wouldn't have been any problem as I worked at a local timber yard/gates/fencing/craft business and they offered such along with lots of other goodies. I need to call in at their sawmill/timber store to see what they do now. I don't see any mention of such services now on their website.

Thanks everyone 👍💯👌
 

Peri

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No one mentioned Doug at Cutting Solutions ?

People here suggested him to me years ago, a bit pricier but brilliant stuff.

The pic is one of their blades compared to a Freud - both blades are the same size and the same amount of teeth.
 

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accipiter

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👍- came across that price after completing the purchase at £31.99 and going back to look for other 24T ones... Well spotted.
 

WillM

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Hi all

4/ Any recommended sources/names of manufacturers/suppliers... without breaking the bank financially as it's a "hobby" and not full time employment - pensions don't go far enough 😉😊

Thanks in advance
I ripped about 4 tons of untreated tropical hardwood sleepers using a variety of blades. The Makita 24T type worked better than anything else I tried. They would have to be sharpened every 12 metres or so - I used a file and rotated a few of them. Very cheap blades. That said, cutting the dense African hardwoods was a struggle - probably a 4 metre sharpen. Australian ironbark was probably a 8 metre. One very dense African wood was a 1 metre.

Freud, I found does excellent cross cuts, but was average at ripping.

This type of blade:
 

accipiter

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@Will M thanks for the input. Sounds like you had a fair bit of sharpening to do - that's some very hard hardwoods to be ripping through. Out of interest, which file or files did you find best to use to do the sharpening? I should probably invest in such...

I'll keep the information and link in mind when looking again 👍
 

ivan

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Just checked the Sauter Shop delivery page. This states imports to non EU countries will not be charged German VAT of 19%, but you the purchaser, will be responsible as an importer, for paying your own country's VAT, which is usually collected by the carrier.

You are likely to be charged both 20% VAT and a collection fee of somewhere between 20 and 50 quid by the carrier. The "less than £135" clause applies to those EU businesses that have signed up to HMRC, charge the UK rate of VAT and forward it to HMRC in a cross border VAT return. If Sauter have done this, they do not say so on their website.

It seems to me that carriage charges EU to UK have gone up lately, presumably another benefit of Brexit.
 

WillM

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@Will M thanks for the input. Sounds like you had a fair bit of sharpening to do - that's some very hard hardwoods to be ripping through. Out of interest, which file or files did you find best to use to do the sharpening? I should probably invest in such...

I'll keep the information and link in mind when looking again 👍
I used a Magnusson with one face rounded. The rounded angle to replicate the scalloping of the blade tooth. Nothing special. I sharpen chainsaw chains whenever I use them, so sharpening the saw blades didn’t seem too much of a chore.
 

Stevekane

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Whilst there are lots of knowledgable saw blade people around could anyone tell me what this TCT blade is for, it came with a used Bosch skilsaw and is 190mm dia. Its had a non stick coating which is the black residue. No matter how I turn it there is no trace of any printing, make or anything left to see and looking idly around the net I cannot find anything similar that might give me a clue. As a guess I think maybe soft construction blocks?
Steve.
 

accipiter

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Whilst there are lots of knowledgable saw blade people around could anyone tell me what this TCT blade is for, it came with a used Bosch skilsaw and is 190mm dia. Its had a non stick coating which is the black residue. No matter how I turn it there is no trace of any printing, make or anything left to see and looking idly around the net I cannot find anything similar that might give me a clue. As a guess I think maybe soft construction blocks?
Steve.
May be better to post a couple of photos of the blade in question in a new thread? Just thinking your question may get lost here 👍
 

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