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table saw blades for Startrite 275

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duncs

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just wondering the people who have the startrite 275 table saw which blades are you using and where were they purchased
any help would be great thank you.
 

Trevanion

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What are you planning on doing with it? Mainly crosscutting or ripping or a mix of both? In an ideal world, you'd want a blade for ripping with would be around 24 teeth in a positive rake configuration and a second blade to swap in for crosscutting which could be up to 90 teeth in a very slight positive or a neutral/negative rake configuration. If you want to do both and just not bother swapping out blades too often you can get combination blades which are a bit of a compromise but perform adequately at both tasks.

There's a variety of good brands to be had but the ones I always opt for are CMT, Other good quality blades manufacturers are OMAS, Swedex and Freud.

CMT ripping blade: https://www.scosarg.com/cmt-293-industrial-rip-sawblade-d-300-d-30-z-24

CMT crosscutting blade: https://www.scosarg.com/cmt-285-saw-blade-d-300-d-30-z-96-b-3-2

OMAS general purpose blade:https://www.scosarg.com/omas-324-general-purpose-tct-saw-blades
 

Trevanion

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Distinterior":17v9xh1g said:
Trevanion,......I believe the Startrite 275 requires a saw blade with a 5/8" bore....?
The variety of blades in 5/8" bore is very lacklustre and usually more pricey, far better off getting a 30mm bore blade and getting a few 30mm to 5/8" bore reducers.
 

Distinterior

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Trevanion":3p0gphs8 said:
Distinterior":3p0gphs8 said:
Trevanion,......I believe the Startrite 275 requires a saw blade with a 5/8" bore....?
The variety of blades in 5/8" bore is very lacklustre, far better off getting a 30mm bore blade and getting a few 30mm to 5/8" bore reducers.
I have a couple of Startrite table saws and they both have 5/8" arbors. As you say, the 5/8" bore blades are not widely available, so I have tried a few blades with the bore reducing bushes.......I have to say, I have not been impressed with the tightness of the fit and have had discernable blade wobble....!
 

duncs

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ive already bought 30mm to 5/8







ive already purchased a 30mm reducer already as theres plenty of choice to be had
 

powertools

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Distinterior":3ax2oou8 said:
Trevanion":3ax2oou8 said:
Distinterior":3ax2oou8 said:
Trevanion,......I believe the Startrite 275 requires a saw blade with a 5/8" bore....?
The variety of blades in 5/8" bore is very lacklustre, far better off getting a 30mm bore blade and getting a few 30mm to 5/8" bore reducers.
I have a couple of Startrite table saws and they both have 5/8" arbors. As you say, the 5/8" bore blades are not widely available, so I have tried a few blades with the bore reducing bushes.......I have to say, I have not been impressed with the tightness of the fit and have had discernable blade wobble....!

I think that your bushes may be thicker than your blade.
 

Trevanion

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Distinterior":1650s61d said:
I have to say, I have not been impressed with the tightness of the fit and have had discernable blade wobble....!
I've had the same problem with cheap reducers for my hand circular saw and the old radial arm saw, ended up making my own which were a bit thicker than the cheap ones and far more accurate. I think the cheap ones are basically made the same as standard washers, stamped out of a sheet rather than accurately turned which greatly reduces the accuracy in my opinion. Some people pein their washers captive into the saw plate with a spot punch but I personally don't want to risk damaging the tension of the saw plate.

If you want some good reducers let me know and I'll knock up a batch :D
 

Fitzroy

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I use Freud blade for ripping and cross cut. Used same blade with 30 mm to 5/8 bush from Axminster in prior saw with no issues.

Fitz.
 

Distinterior

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I have seen reducing bushes with a serrated edge on them......I imagine these would need to be "helped" into position...?

I would also assume that this type of reducing bush should be left permanently in the saw blade as opposed to removing them each time the blade is sharpened, for example..?
 

Trevanion

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Distinterior":2ib6mnec said:
I have seen reducing bushes with a serrated edge on them......I imagine these would need to be "helped" into position...?

I would also assume that this type of reducing bush should be left permanently in the saw blade as opposed to removing them each time the blade is sharpened, for example..?
I think I remember fitting one of those in years ago, light tap in with a hammer if I remember correctly, not a total press fit but snug. I suppose one advantage of leaving the reducer in the blade is when it does go for sharpening it will be sharpened exactly concentric with the bore of the reducer rather than the actual bore.
 

Distinterior

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Trevanion":tzvumljn said:
Distinterior":tzvumljn said:
I have to say, I have not been impressed with the tightness of the fit and have had discernable blade wobble....!
......If you want some good reducers let me know and I'll knock up a batch :D
Sorry Trevanion,....Only just spotted this! That is a very kind offer and when I get round to restoring the 2 saws, I will definitely be in touch with you......Thanks again.
 

bruler0111

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Sorry to dig up an old thread but anyone have a source for reducers?

Axminster sold out, all the stuff on eBay etc are too thin (1.2mm).

Is it a case of getting a local engineers to make them up?

If so presume getting made to thickness of the blade is optimal(?)
 

cutting solutions

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I didnt used to come here very often in recent times but now we have the thread update info I can see where I may be able to advise.

Any reducing bush should be thinner than the plate thickness of the blade.
So a blade described as: 250x2.8/1.8x30 Z=20; has a tooth thickness of 2.8 mm and a plate thickness of 1.8 mm. therefore your reducing bush should be thinner than 1.8 mm.
If its thicker than the plate the lock nut will be clamping on the bush rather than the plate....which WILL make the blade wobble and is really quite dangerous.
 

MusicMan

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Any reducing bush should be thinner than the plate thickness of the blade.
So a blade described as: 250x2.8/1.8x30 Z=20; has a tooth thickness of 2.8 mm and a plate thickness of 1.8 mm. therefore your reducing bush should be thinner than 1.8 mm.
If its thicker than the plate the lock nut will be clamping on the bush rather than the plate....which WILL make the blade wobble and is really quite dangerous.
This does depend on the design of the blade clamping flanges. On my old Wadkin they clamp around the edge region and the middle is slightly recessed. Thus the thickness of the reducer is not important (within limits). Of course, this should be checked on any individual saw.
 

Distinterior

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This does depend on the design of the blade clamping flanges. On my old Wadkin they clamp around the edge region and the middle is slightly recessed. Thus the thickness of the reducer is not important (within limits). Of course, this should be checked on any individual saw.
As MM said,.....This is indeed the case on the older models of Startrite saws such as the 145, 165, 175 and 275. Below are a pair of flanges from a Startrite saw. You can clearly see the recess in each flange.
15984306414543012160429150556225.jpg
 
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