super accurate bandsaws

[Matt@]

I use an old electra bandsaw bought new 12 yrs ago. Its never been that accurate at all for straight line cuts but this has never really bothered me.

I may now wish to replace my Kity 609 bench saw with just a bandsaw.

What Bandsaw models are out there now that cut superbly accurately and are small in size? Ideally I would wish to be able to use a bandsaw fence and saw as accurately as with a table saw. Not too bothered about the cost of the machine (but it must a nice and quiet running!)

 

[marcros]

sorry to hijac, but is the 609 the combined saw/spindle?

 

[Matt@]

sorry to hijac, but is the 609 the combined saw/spindle?

no just bench saw with extension table. I'm unsure about model number now, it maybe a 619? I'll check in the morning...

anyway just the straight forward saw with rise and fall, tilt and quite a big table size plus extensions to RH side.

 

[marcros]

I may be interested when you come to sell the kity. I sold my smaller 419, with the intention of having only a bandaw. I dont like cross cutting on it, however, despite it being set up well. It just never quite turns out as good as a table saw does. I do have a radial arm saw that needs setting up. You may wish to consider either that or a track saw along with the bandsaw.

I would suggest looking at either a Kity (413 or 613 IIRC) or an Inca. Bide your time and get a good one though, (and a complete one). Luthiers go wild for them. kity-413-the-hunt-for-a-precision-bandsaw-t60281.html is worth a read. The 413 isnt that common, but they do crop up from time to time.

 

[longinthetooth]

Noise: you need an induction motor, maybe that's a given? The other main source of noise is the guides, so rollers back & sides ..?

Linear accuracy is a variable. Narrow bandsaw blades especially often have a biased cut from new, that alters as they wear - thus a rip fence needs to be adjustable in its angle to the table. This is unlike a circular sawbench.

 

[RogerP]

Most bandsaws can be set up to perform well - given there's nothing inherently wrong or misaligned. It does take a little time to initially get things just right but well worth the effort.

May I suggest having a look at this Steve Maskery youtube video and perhaps later getting his DVD?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6v2udCG6HQw

 

[Steve Maskery]

Narrow bandsaw blades especially often have a biased cut from new, that alters as they wear - thus a rip fence needs to be adjustable in its angle to the table.

I'm afraid I have to disagree. Skewing the fence to match the drift of the blade is a very poor (although, I admit, very common) solution, and it renders the mitre fence for crosscutting useless. The tracking should be adjusted to eliminate drift, rather than just compensating for it. Then both ripping and crosscutting become a joy instead of a frustration.

Thank you Roger.

Steve

 

[condeesteso]

I agree with Steve above. I used to just tweak the fence to compensate, but a little more time going back to source of bias is time well spent. I found the quick way to get very close is to adjust the position the blade runs on the wheels (forward/back) a little, but also most tables can be adjusted around the blade a little (normally bolts on trunnion).
My absolute favourite smaller bandsaws are the Inca's (either size) and if you can find one, the Kity 413 (which has a lot in common with the Incas but is handed normally (Incas being a bit back-to-front).
The other vital thing is good blades - everyone recommends Tuff Saws and I agree. My favourite everyday for hardwoods is the 'Fastcut'. I also put lignum block guides into the Inca... takes minutes to cut them from scrap, and they are self-lubricating so can run well in contact with the blade, zero clearance.
If you want something a bit bigger may I recommend the older green Startrite 352 (noting that its footprint on the floor is really no more than a smaller saw on a stand anyway). My old 352 is staying with me now forever, and I have owned quite a few before it (some costing way more).
Hope that might help a bit. I cannot resist a vote for these 2 or 3 fine machines!

p.s. re the OP - I am convinced that not one high-end maker produces a smaller precision bandsaw now. I think that is a bad oversight personally, but a few of the discontinued ones do fill the gap fortunately.

 

[longinthetooth]

Skewing the fence to match the drift of the blade is a very poor (although, I admit, very common) solution, and it renders the mitre fence for crosscutting useless. The tracking should be adjusted to eliminate drift, rather than just compensating for it.

Funny, all these years & I never thought of that! I'll give it a whirl when I put the next blade on.
But it must be more of a fiddle (slacken all guides, adjust tracking, tighten guides, make test cut, repeat ...) and I hardly use the bandsaw for crosscutting ...
For anyone that doesn't know, with the fence method you scribe a line parallel to the edge of a straight piece of scrap, & saw down the line freehand, then holding the sawn piece in position turn off the saw & adjust the angle of the fence parallel to it - you do need an adjustable fence (I made one), but it's quick!

... but also most tables can be adjusted around the blade a little

I'm not going to attempt that every time I change a blade though!