RogerP
Established Member
............I still do but only in my workshops.Glynne":1xwfmd3n said:
Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls
- Thread starter Steve Maskery
- Start date
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Graham Orm
Established Member
RogerP":1efcycm2 said:
Tried it once, had a go with my dad's when mum and dad had gone out, I was about 14 and showing off to a mate. I had to run for the bathroom and made it to the top of the stairs before throwing up.
Wizard9999
Established Member
Glynne":db4vzxy1 said:
Having seen the resurgence of the proper manly beard it'll only take a couple of Hollywood types to be seen with one and everyone will be puffing on one again.
flying haggis
Established Member
Steve Maskery
Established Member
That looks like a good solution for the sort of collection you have there.
But I have my bits in various sets:
Metric jobber drills
Imperial jobber drills
Metric twin-lip & spur
Forstners
All are in sets, all in boxes or articulated cases. I don't want to ditch the containers because I often take them to the Community Workshop. So I suppose I want a set of drawers, so that the drills are close to Lulu, but easily put into my tool box when necessary.
I noticed in Aldi yesterday that they has some tool cabinets. Like the one I have only smaller. They were reduced from 130 to 100, give or take. But it still seems quite a lot to shell out. If they were half that I'd succumb.
But I have my bits in various sets:
Metric jobber drills
Imperial jobber drills
Metric twin-lip & spur
Forstners
All are in sets, all in boxes or articulated cases. I don't want to ditch the containers because I often take them to the Community Workshop. So I suppose I want a set of drawers, so that the drills are close to Lulu, but easily put into my tool box when necessary.
I noticed in Aldi yesterday that they has some tool cabinets. Like the one I have only smaller. They were reduced from 130 to 100, give or take. But it still seems quite a lot to shell out. If they were half that I'd succumb.
flying haggis
Established Member
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I think that would be perfect. Pity it's not a BIN at that price.
shipbadger
Established Member
Steve,
I've now bought three roll cabs with top boxes from this firm. If you want to keep down the cost you should be aware that they always advertise some of their product at BIN prices and some as an auction. Patience often pays off with the auction. They appear to get delivery in batches (presumably a container full) and when new supplies arrive the first few auctions reach the higher prices (sometimes more than the BIN!) but subsequent ones are often cheaper. They also have damaged boxes at times which sell for much lower prices, the damage is often repairable for those with common sense. I've no connection with the seller but have always found their descriptions accurate; for example pointing out that their cabinets may have smaller castors than others of the same brand sold by others.
And before anyone asks, ones in the garage, one has my model engineering tools and the others has the wetstone grinder on the base and the top sits at the end of the bench with chisels etc. in the drawers.
Tony Comber
I've now bought three roll cabs with top boxes from this firm. If you want to keep down the cost you should be aware that they always advertise some of their product at BIN prices and some as an auction. Patience often pays off with the auction. They appear to get delivery in batches (presumably a container full) and when new supplies arrive the first few auctions reach the higher prices (sometimes more than the BIN!) but subsequent ones are often cheaper. They also have damaged boxes at times which sell for much lower prices, the damage is often repairable for those with common sense. I've no connection with the seller but have always found their descriptions accurate; for example pointing out that their cabinets may have smaller castors than others of the same brand sold by others.
And before anyone asks, ones in the garage, one has my model engineering tools and the others has the wetstone grinder on the base and the top sits at the end of the bench with chisels etc. in the drawers.
Tony Comber
Steve Maskery
Established Member
That's really helpful, Tony, thank you. It could be an excellent solution, as, being portable, I wouldn't even have to re-pack them every time I went to the CW. I've put a couple on Watch to see what they actually end up selling for.
flying haggis
Established Member
get one of these steve and just wheel it round to the community workshop and back(if you could push it when it was full of tools!!!!!)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257-US-PRO-TO ... 5d588ffda8
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/257-US-PRO-TO ... 5d588ffda8
focusonwood
Established Member
I've just gone through this thread with interest. Loving the photos as you progress, and the workshop looks great.
I'm creating my own workshop at the moment, but as a small single garage you could probably fit it 10 times into yours!
I'm currently finishing off my workbench (I'm new to working with wood, so I'm learning as I go along). I might share a picture of my workshop and bench one day when it's presentable...it's not of the same scale, but I'm creating piles of shavings and sawdust all the same!
I'm creating my own workshop at the moment, but as a small single garage you could probably fit it 10 times into yours!
I'm currently finishing off my workbench (I'm new to working with wood, so I'm learning as I go along). I might share a picture of my workshop and bench one day when it's presentable...it's not of the same scale, but I'm creating piles of shavings and sawdust all the same!
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I have one of the original Festool 1010 routers. It's a very nice machine, as you might expect. At least, it is in many respects.
However.
The fence does not have a fine adjuster. You'd think that an expensive, top-of-the-range router like that would have one as standard. Actually, I believe that if you buy one today, the fence rods do have fine adjustment built in to them. And so they should. But mine doesn't.
Ever since I got it I have been thinking of making a fine adjuster for it, but I've never been able to locate my Round Tuit. Today I've routed a groove at exactly the wrong width and am livid with myself. So in a huff I searched high and low until I found my Round Tuit and made a fine adjuster.
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. Yeah, yeah, I know, it never happened.
But here is a pic of the finished item
It's very simple, just a piece of wood. The various holes have to be drilled accurately and if you look closely you can see that there is a strip glued over the top face. That's because there are a couple of embedded nut (nice, thin, locking nuts, actually) underneath it.
The supplied, fence, conveniently, has an M6 tapped hole in it, which, inconveniently, does not align with a similar hole in the router base casting itself. I've never actually found out what either part is for, I suppose I should find the manual and read it.
Anyway, the upshot is that I can now adjust the fence very precisely. One turn of the Bristol lever is 1mm.
Happy Bunny. I just wish I'd made it this morning rather than this afternoon.
PS I also got to use my new Aldi Angle Grinder stand for the first time. Love it. Sparks everywhere, repeatabilty, quick, real man-cave stuff. And already I've started thinking of ways in which I can improve the base. The vice is - basic.
However.
The fence does not have a fine adjuster. You'd think that an expensive, top-of-the-range router like that would have one as standard. Actually, I believe that if you buy one today, the fence rods do have fine adjustment built in to them. And so they should. But mine doesn't.
Ever since I got it I have been thinking of making a fine adjuster for it, but I've never been able to locate my Round Tuit. Today I've routed a groove at exactly the wrong width and am livid with myself. So in a huff I searched high and low until I found my Round Tuit and made a fine adjuster.
Unfortunately I didn't take any photos. Yeah, yeah, I know, it never happened.
But here is a pic of the finished item
It's very simple, just a piece of wood. The various holes have to be drilled accurately and if you look closely you can see that there is a strip glued over the top face. That's because there are a couple of embedded nut (nice, thin, locking nuts, actually) underneath it.
The supplied, fence, conveniently, has an M6 tapped hole in it, which, inconveniently, does not align with a similar hole in the router base casting itself. I've never actually found out what either part is for, I suppose I should find the manual and read it.
Anyway, the upshot is that I can now adjust the fence very precisely. One turn of the Bristol lever is 1mm.
Happy Bunny. I just wish I'd made it this morning rather than this afternoon.
PS I also got to use my new Aldi Angle Grinder stand for the first time. Love it. Sparks everywhere, repeatabilty, quick, real man-cave stuff. And already I've started thinking of ways in which I can improve the base. The vice is - basic.
Attachments
Steve Maskery
Established Member
I also forgot to mention that I've also ordered the cement panel boards for the rest of the outside, it's arriving on Wednesday.
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
I don't understand how the Bristol lever fine adjusts
Maybe a photo from the top would clear it up
I need something similar for my triton
Maybe a photo from the top would clear it up
I need something similar for my triton
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hi Jim
I've packed it away but I shall need to use it again tomorrow, so I'll take a pic for you then.
But basically the fine adjuster clamps on to the ends of the fence rods and doesn't move. The Bristol lever turns the M6 leadscrew, onto which is trapped the wooden block, between two washers and Nylox nuts. The nuts are adjusted so that there is no play but the leadscrew can still turn.
The original fence has an M6 hole in it, through which the leadscrew passes, so to adjust it, the FA stays clamped on the rods, the fence is slackened off, and as the leadscrew is turned, the fence moves up or down the fence rods, altering its distance from the cutter. Once adjusted, the fence is tightened up again.
Clear as mud on a dark foggy night?
I've packed it away but I shall need to use it again tomorrow, so I'll take a pic for you then.
But basically the fine adjuster clamps on to the ends of the fence rods and doesn't move. The Bristol lever turns the M6 leadscrew, onto which is trapped the wooden block, between two washers and Nylox nuts. The nuts are adjusted so that there is no play but the leadscrew can still turn.
The original fence has an M6 hole in it, through which the leadscrew passes, so to adjust it, the FA stays clamped on the rods, the fence is slackened off, and as the leadscrew is turned, the fence moves up or down the fence rods, altering its distance from the cutter. Once adjusted, the fence is tightened up again.
Clear as mud on a dark foggy night?
Steve Maskery
Established Member
lurker":1bfet4jr said:
You were also on about making a kick-stop for your TS. Like mine. Are you secretly cloning my workshop?
lurker
Le dullard de la commune
I did make one. Works great
I'll Nick any good ideas I see anywhere.
I'll Nick any good ideas I see anywhere.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
You tart, you.
