dc_ni
Established Member
Or a nice jig to be used making some nice furniture (hammer) (hammer)
Steve's workshop - Painting the outside walls
- Thread starter Steve Maskery
- Start date
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Steve Maskery
Established Member
I didn't sleep well last night, so when Ray arrived, a bit early, I wasn't dressed. Fortunately I had already been down to the workshop and put the drill and nailer on charge, so I wasn't in too bad books.
It had taken so long yesterday, just to get one board up, that we had a think about how best to speed things up.
The first thing was to set up some trestles so that we were not bent double, and then we figured that we could drill several at once.
So we put them up, but kept back the bottom one. We leant that up against the gate, put another three on the trestles, then replaced the gate one to use as a template. The only thing we had to change on each one was the placement of the holes for the centre areas, as they had to line up with the existing laths, which got progressively out of sync.
The last one was cut a tad over-width, offered up and scribed to the back edge of the wall.
We also managed one board on the LH wall before we quit, but the day was marred by us finding my camera lying on the ground. I'd parked it out of the way and neither Ray not I have any recollection of bumping it, but it has been a bit breezy today so I assume it was a gust of wind. I don't have another explanation. My heart sank when I saw the crack across the front, but on closer examination it was just the UV filter. That had taken the brunt of the fall was cracked and the edge a bit bent. I couldn't screw it, so I made a panic call to Eric the Viking Who Knows Everything, who suggested and elastic band. Well I found an EB but it didn't shift it. I gave it to Ray, who simply said I wasn't trying hard enough. I must have loosened it for him.
Anyway, despite the damage
there appears to be only the slightest graze to the camera itself, and it appears to work normally. I've fitted a UV filter only quite recently, on the advice of Dave Richards, so I'm just relieved that it wasn't worse. You bet I'll replace that filter ASAP. (You bet - Minnesotan - see what I did there?)
And on the subject of cameras, I've started to look again at what my options are for a new camcorder. I have a couple of things I want to make YT shorts for, and my old camera is only SD, when everything in the world now is HD. I was always very happy with my Panasonic, so I am inclined to go for the X920, but my main gripe is that it does not have a trad IR remote control. Filming myself, a zapper is very useful. Yes I know the camera can be controlled with an app, but I don't have a tablet and don't really want to have to buy one. OTOH, a tablet would allow me to monitor the output without having another cable about the place, so that bit is quite appealing.
The alternative is the Canon Legria 25, which does not enjoy quite such a high reputation, but a perfectly decent one nonetheless, and does come with a zapper.
Decisions, decisions.
It had taken so long yesterday, just to get one board up, that we had a think about how best to speed things up.
The first thing was to set up some trestles so that we were not bent double, and then we figured that we could drill several at once.
So we put them up, but kept back the bottom one. We leant that up against the gate, put another three on the trestles, then replaced the gate one to use as a template. The only thing we had to change on each one was the placement of the holes for the centre areas, as they had to line up with the existing laths, which got progressively out of sync.
The last one was cut a tad over-width, offered up and scribed to the back edge of the wall.
We also managed one board on the LH wall before we quit, but the day was marred by us finding my camera lying on the ground. I'd parked it out of the way and neither Ray not I have any recollection of bumping it, but it has been a bit breezy today so I assume it was a gust of wind. I don't have another explanation. My heart sank when I saw the crack across the front, but on closer examination it was just the UV filter. That had taken the brunt of the fall was cracked and the edge a bit bent. I couldn't screw it, so I made a panic call to Eric the Viking Who Knows Everything, who suggested and elastic band. Well I found an EB but it didn't shift it. I gave it to Ray, who simply said I wasn't trying hard enough. I must have loosened it for him.
Anyway, despite the damage
there appears to be only the slightest graze to the camera itself, and it appears to work normally. I've fitted a UV filter only quite recently, on the advice of Dave Richards, so I'm just relieved that it wasn't worse. You bet I'll replace that filter ASAP. (You bet - Minnesotan - see what I did there?)
And on the subject of cameras, I've started to look again at what my options are for a new camcorder. I have a couple of things I want to make YT shorts for, and my old camera is only SD, when everything in the world now is HD. I was always very happy with my Panasonic, so I am inclined to go for the X920, but my main gripe is that it does not have a trad IR remote control. Filming myself, a zapper is very useful. Yes I know the camera can be controlled with an app, but I don't have a tablet and don't really want to have to buy one. OTOH, a tablet would allow me to monitor the output without having another cable about the place, so that bit is quite appealing.
The alternative is the Canon Legria 25, which does not enjoy quite such a high reputation, but a perfectly decent one nonetheless, and does come with a zapper.
Decisions, decisions.
Attachments
mindthatwhatouch
Established Member
Hi steve, glad you enjoyed your break.
What's the plan with the cempanel joints? Is there a cover strip or something else that goes over the top?
What's the plan with the cempanel joints? Is there a cover strip or something else that goes over the top?
Brentingby
Established Member
Steve Maskery":19jwjgdv said:You bet I'll replace that filter ASAP. (You bet - Minnesotan - see what I did there?)
Steve Maskery
Established Member
mindthatwhatouch":krzd7gau said:
Good q. I think I have a lot of caulking to do. The surface is very smooth but horribly patchy and generally ugly. I've asked for clarification from Kevin the BCO that I can actually paint this stuff with Sandtex or something similar. I got an auto OOO reply, so we'll see what he says on his return. If TWCTTW, I can always go back to my original idea of Snowcem, as that is cement based.
sploo
Somewhat extinguished member
Steve Maskery":ymxxmczm said:
Moderately priced Canon DSLR with a Rode shotgun mic, and running Magic Lantern?
Wizard9999
Established Member
Thank god it was only the camera, when I read the title I thought I was about to read of the whole stack of cempanels smashed to pieces!
Terry.
Terry.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Ray wanted me to get some help with the Cempanels this weekend, but it was a bit short notice to ask all the usual suspects, really.
Instead, I decided to tackle the shutters.
I'm making them really, not so much for security or insulation, but to make filming and photography easier. Some of my photographs have come out funny-coloured, and it's because I have a mixture of natural daylight from the windows and fluorescent lights. The camera can compensate for one or the other, but struggles with both. I could put up all sorts of filters, over the window or over the tubes, but it's easier just to block out the sunlight
So this morning I went and bought some 6x1 and set to.
There was some ripping
some crosscutting
and some dominoing. My spell-checker thinks that that is not a real word.
I'd chosen what size I wanted using my waggleometer. That is definitely a word, because I invented it. I can see at a glance what the mortice will look like WRT my workpiece, as well as how two adjacent mortices would relate if I used the pins
I decided to use 8mm dominoes, set up my machine and proceeded to cut thirty-two 6mm mortices. silly person. So I did them all again at 8mm. At least it wasn't the other way around.
I ripped some timber, thicknessed it, then used my new Rockler roundover bit to round the edges to make a couple of lengths of domino stock
I glued up the frames and checked for both square and wind
I have a load of shiplap left over, so I ripped off the field and re-machined a tongue and chamfer, to make a T&G board. I used to have a stackable grooving set, which would have halved the time, but instead I had to make do with a standard rebate cutter and V-bit in three stages. The end result was good, though
I've made the frames as rectangles, but now I rather wish I'd made them as double-H, or like a ladder, as I am going to have to faff about with backing strips to take the strap-hinge screws.
Still, no other major cock-ups, I must be getting better.
Instead, I decided to tackle the shutters.
I'm making them really, not so much for security or insulation, but to make filming and photography easier. Some of my photographs have come out funny-coloured, and it's because I have a mixture of natural daylight from the windows and fluorescent lights. The camera can compensate for one or the other, but struggles with both. I could put up all sorts of filters, over the window or over the tubes, but it's easier just to block out the sunlight
So this morning I went and bought some 6x1 and set to.
There was some ripping
some crosscutting
and some dominoing. My spell-checker thinks that that is not a real word.
I'd chosen what size I wanted using my waggleometer. That is definitely a word, because I invented it. I can see at a glance what the mortice will look like WRT my workpiece, as well as how two adjacent mortices would relate if I used the pins
I decided to use 8mm dominoes, set up my machine and proceeded to cut thirty-two 6mm mortices. silly person. So I did them all again at 8mm. At least it wasn't the other way around.
I ripped some timber, thicknessed it, then used my new Rockler roundover bit to round the edges to make a couple of lengths of domino stock
I glued up the frames and checked for both square and wind
I have a load of shiplap left over, so I ripped off the field and re-machined a tongue and chamfer, to make a T&G board. I used to have a stackable grooving set, which would have halved the time, but instead I had to make do with a standard rebate cutter and V-bit in three stages. The end result was good, though
I've made the frames as rectangles, but now I rather wish I'd made them as double-H, or like a ladder, as I am going to have to faff about with backing strips to take the strap-hinge screws.
Still, no other major cock-ups, I must be getting better.
Attachments
Steve Maskery
Established Member
This morning I started to attach the boards to the frames.
I painted the tongue as each board went in, so that if and when the boards shrink, I don't get a white line appear when fresh wood is exposed.
I would have preferred it if 7 boards covered the required width, because an odd number looks better than an even one, but 7 came about 10mm too shy. So there are eight boards per shutter. The two outside ones will be ripped down to fit.
I attached them with my Rapesco nailer.
I don't use it very often, and every time I do I remember why I don't use it. It is, by a country mile, the single most awfully useless tool I have ever had the poor judgement to spend my money on. It is a dreadful piece of junk. It should be easy, shouldn't it? Press the head, pull the trigger, job done. We know how to make tools that do that. So why are a few perfect and others, the vast majority, like this:
The nails are not fully home, yet the firing pin mars the wood. Some nails are bent. Sometimes it doesn't fire a nail, just the firing pin, even though there are nails in the magazine. What's the point of having an automatic nailer if you have to spend ages going round setting the nails and making good with caulk? It is an abomination. I think they rebranded as Tacwise.
Anyway they have had a coat of paint on the front. I was hoping to do the backs as well this evening, but it already 7.40 and I haven't eaten yet - moules marinière calls.
I painted the tongue as each board went in, so that if and when the boards shrink, I don't get a white line appear when fresh wood is exposed.
I would have preferred it if 7 boards covered the required width, because an odd number looks better than an even one, but 7 came about 10mm too shy. So there are eight boards per shutter. The two outside ones will be ripped down to fit.
I attached them with my Rapesco nailer.
I don't use it very often, and every time I do I remember why I don't use it. It is, by a country mile, the single most awfully useless tool I have ever had the poor judgement to spend my money on. It is a dreadful piece of junk. It should be easy, shouldn't it? Press the head, pull the trigger, job done. We know how to make tools that do that. So why are a few perfect and others, the vast majority, like this:
The nails are not fully home, yet the firing pin mars the wood. Some nails are bent. Sometimes it doesn't fire a nail, just the firing pin, even though there are nails in the magazine. What's the point of having an automatic nailer if you have to spend ages going round setting the nails and making good with caulk? It is an abomination. I think they rebranded as Tacwise.
Anyway they have had a coat of paint on the front. I was hoping to do the backs as well this evening, but it already 7.40 and I haven't eaten yet - moules marinière calls.
Attachments
Steve Maskery":1cxv4e57 said:
FWIW: I have a Tacwise electric nailer (it was cheap and I only need one for attaching the backs of cabinet boxes, so I could afford the risk) and it can do both of the things you describe if you're not careful with it... but once you get used to it, it's quite possible to make it push nails right the way in without marring the surface as well.
I've never used an air-driven gun or an expensive electric one, but the Tacwise model nailer/stapler at least is just a matter of practice.
Sporky McGuffin
Light entertainer
I have one of those Rapesco ones; my experience and exasperation with it are similar!
AES
Established Member
I too have had similar experiences with this type of tool as Steve describes. I wanted somewhat lighter stuff (staples mainly) and 1st off bought a cheapo hand stapler (a bit like a big office unit). It was useless - or put it this way, I could never get it to drive more than about 1 staple in 100 to full depth and without mangling the staple. So I bought a much better-looking n more expensive tool, also a hand unit. Exactly the same result as above.
So I bought a B&D electric unit which should drive small nails too. Not exactly cheap, but clearly not top of the line. Slightly better than the above 2, but pretty much the same results as the above in the main.
In frustration I then bought a Lidl or Aldi air driven unit a while back. Works fine without any of the above problems. The only problem is the compressor, which makes so much noise in the cellar it's like standing beside the runway when Concord is taking off, so I use it only very occasionally.
AES
So I bought a B&D electric unit which should drive small nails too. Not exactly cheap, but clearly not top of the line. Slightly better than the above 2, but pretty much the same results as the above in the main.
In frustration I then bought a Lidl or Aldi air driven unit a while back. Works fine without any of the above problems. The only problem is the compressor, which makes so much noise in the cellar it's like standing beside the runway when Concord is taking off, so I use it only very occasionally.
AES
Graham Orm
Established Member
I had 2 tried Tacwise nailers in close succession. The first was so poor, that the supplier and I agreed it must be faulty. I got a full refund in the end as they quite simply weren't good for purpose. The same problems that you describe Steve. Infuriating. I now have a Senco which is faultless. I've used and abused it for about 3 years on site and it never misses a beat. I've also recently replaced my workshop compressor after a long period without one, and have been using the air nailer again for the first time in a couple of years. I'd forgotten just how good it was.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Measuring from the centre, I trimmed the shutters to size including cutting a 30° bevel across the bottom, to prevent any water wicking up.They are not all exactly the same width, it varies 8mm or so, but the apertures are not too bad for square. Pete, this is your № 7 being put to good use. It is a beauty to use and a very worthy successor to my Dad's № 8. Thank you.
The screws I have for this are bright, but I want black, so I poked them through a piece of cardboard and sprayed them
I then used them to attach the strap hinges, 6" up from the bottom, 4.5" down from the top
So the first one went up no problem
and a cabin hook fitted to keep it open. Screwfix had 1, one, in stock. I have to go back tomorrow for the others.
I've painted all four, but I can't fit the other three because some silly person has stacked a load of wood below the windows.
The screws I have for this are bright, but I want black, so I poked them through a piece of cardboard and sprayed them
I then used them to attach the strap hinges, 6" up from the bottom, 4.5" down from the top
So the first one went up no problem
and a cabin hook fitted to keep it open. Screwfix had 1, one, in stock. I have to go back tomorrow for the others.
I've painted all four, but I can't fit the other three because some silly person has stacked a load of wood below the windows.
Attachments
Shultzy
Established Member
How are you locking these shut as a security precaution? I used coach bolts and wing nuts (Page 5, workshop thread) as they are on the inside and are tamper-proof.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Hi Steve
I'm not. I was going to use some star bolts, and Lurker was kind enough to give me some, but there is a rebate which makes that very difficult to fit. So I shall just make some large turnbuttons to keep them closed. These are not really for security, they are for light control.
I am considering drilling a hole in them. Why? Well a couple of times I've forgotten to turn the lights out, and it's not obvious until it gets dark. Then it is obvious because the windows shine. So a small porthole would alert me to that.
I'm not. I was going to use some star bolts, and Lurker was kind enough to give me some, but there is a rebate which makes that very difficult to fit. So I shall just make some large turnbuttons to keep them closed. These are not really for security, they are for light control.
I am considering drilling a hole in them. Why? Well a couple of times I've forgotten to turn the lights out, and it's not obvious until it gets dark. Then it is obvious because the windows shine. So a small porthole would alert me to that.
Graham Orm
Established Member
Steve don't you think, as you've gone to all the trouble of making them it would be worthwhile to make them locking as well? If you didn't and some scrote got in through the windows you'd be kicking yourself.
The peep hole is a good idea, I considered connecting a small outside light to my internal lights for the same reason, but haven't yet got round to it.
The peep hole is a good idea, I considered connecting a small outside light to my internal lights for the same reason, but haven't yet got round to it.
Steve Maskery
Established Member
The windows don't open, it's security glass, there are sensors. By the time they get in the place will be screaming anyway, both in the workshop and in my house.
Graham Orm
Established Member
Fair comment Steve. But there's always the deterrent value.
Shultzy
Established Member
Steve, I can't remember if you put an emergency light in your system. I have and am I glad as last week the lights fused while I was using the CS and the emergency light came on, Phew!!
