Hi, I need some advice, I am trying to find out what is wrong with this bandsaw I am using. I wonder if it is to with the blade support guides as when the bandsaw is being use the blade suddenly comes off. I am use to using a industrial bandsaw with a proper thrust wheel, this bandsaw got a small rod instead. The bandsaw was donated but there was no manual with it. It has a tension indicator and tracking which I set correctly but it doesn't seen to make a difference as the blade keeps coming off during a cut. One thing I did notice was a little play in the upper wheel when I putting the blade on, as I would have thought this would be unusual compared to the bandsaw I have been use to working with.
Startrite 352 bandsaw
- Thread starter Oaky
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Newbie_Neil
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Hi Oaky
Welcome to the forum.
I'm sure that someone will be along soon to help.
Cheers
Neil
Welcome to the forum.
I'm sure that someone will be along soon to help.
Cheers
Neil
Hi Oaky and welcome!
When you say "play", what do you mean? The upper wheel cants for tracking but unlike larger bandsaws the wheel is light enough that it can be "tilted" slightly rearwards at the top by hand when there is no blade mounted on the saw.
The only thing which goes wrong with the thrust rods is that they wear out and need to be replaced, so despite their simple design they normally aren't a problem. Check that they aren't scored (they should have a relatively flat face). Similarly the side thrusts blocks are made from meehanite and being hard last a long time, but if the saw has been used a loit for curve cutting these can become a bit manky and chewed up. An engineering machine shop should be able to face them off for you relatively inexpensively.
As you are an industrial bandsaw user I think we can safely assume that your blade is sharp and that you're not overfeeding. So if the guides are OK, I'd start looking elsewhere. First off, what state are the tyres in? Take the blade off and examine the tyres for grooves and flats as they can both cause blade "derailments" and tracking problems. Also take the tension gauge with a pinch of salt - I've checked mine using a Starrett blade tension gauge (used to set-up my big bandsaw) and it's pretty optimistic, so I normally give the blade another half to one turn of the bent knob (i.e. over tension it according to the guide on the saw). For setting-up I'd also get yourself a decent quality new blade and set the machine up with that, then you'll remove another variable from the set-up. If it isn't any of the above then the next step is going to be to check if the wheels are coplanar, but frankly I'd try the simple stuff first - British-built Startrite 301's, 351's and 352's were tough, well made little machines and they don't often suffer from wheel alignment problems.
Scrit
When you say "play", what do you mean? The upper wheel cants for tracking but unlike larger bandsaws the wheel is light enough that it can be "tilted" slightly rearwards at the top by hand when there is no blade mounted on the saw.
The only thing which goes wrong with the thrust rods is that they wear out and need to be replaced, so despite their simple design they normally aren't a problem. Check that they aren't scored (they should have a relatively flat face). Similarly the side thrusts blocks are made from meehanite and being hard last a long time, but if the saw has been used a loit for curve cutting these can become a bit manky and chewed up. An engineering machine shop should be able to face them off for you relatively inexpensively.
As you are an industrial bandsaw user I think we can safely assume that your blade is sharp and that you're not overfeeding. So if the guides are OK, I'd start looking elsewhere. First off, what state are the tyres in? Take the blade off and examine the tyres for grooves and flats as they can both cause blade "derailments" and tracking problems. Also take the tension gauge with a pinch of salt - I've checked mine using a Starrett blade tension gauge (used to set-up my big bandsaw) and it's pretty optimistic, so I normally give the blade another half to one turn of the bent knob (i.e. over tension it according to the guide on the saw). For setting-up I'd also get yourself a decent quality new blade and set the machine up with that, then you'll remove another variable from the set-up. If it isn't any of the above then the next step is going to be to check if the wheels are coplanar, but frankly I'd try the simple stuff first - British-built Startrite 301's, 351's and 352's were tough, well made little machines and they don't often suffer from wheel alignment problems.
Scrit
Yes, that was what the play is like. The machine looks in good nick but I wasn't sure if there something was a miss with it. I think that it could be it, a little more tension then. I have a good look next week when I have more time.
