spindle moulder ????????

[Steve-Sash]

Hi There,

Firstly I would like to say hello to everyone who uses this forum and say what a great forum it is. Have been looking at some of the posts and there is some great comments and advice in them.
Ok my name is Steve and I am in need of some expert advice from you guys. I make sash windows and was wondering weather its worth purchasing a small spindle moulder. If so which one and what sort of things should i be looking for ?I currently use my router table.

 

[DaveL]

Hi Steve,

Welcome to the forum.

I only have a router table setup but understand that for making long runs of a profile a spindle is much quicker. Someone should be alone soon who can advise on what they use.

 

[BradNaylor]

Hi Steve,

Welcome aboard!

I would definitely recommend that you invest in a spindle moulder. I do cabinet work and managed for years with just a router table. Since I got a spindle moulder though, I've not looked back!

It will eat far more timber than any router table. Cuts that would have taken 3 or 4 passes can now be done in one. The finish is far superior as well.

As to which one - I don't know!

Mine is an old Wadkin BRS which I picked up for a couple of hundred quid. I know nothing about making sash windows so don't know what sort of cutters you will want to use. I would always go for an old cast iron machine like Wadkin rather than a new one, so long as you've got 3-phase power. Try ebay.

Cheers
Dan

 

[ProShop]

Sash windows is a bit vague for a choice of spindle moulder imho, a bit more info needed

New or s/hand ?. 2hp is about the smallest you'll get, only take smallish steel cutter blocks and slightly larger alloy ones.

Also depends how much your prepared to spend on one, and remember the tooling can cost you a lot more than the machine. If your making windows a pro tooling set can cost over 3K alone . do you want the moulder to be a tennoner or a comb jointer as well ?. Do you want to multi stack ?.

I take it your making the window section, if so you'd be advised to buy a power feeder to go with it.

Oh and I almost forgot ,you'll need a good extraction system these moulders can fill a bag nearly as fast as a planer/thickneser .

Making windows on a router table ?, these can't be Fensa approved can they ?. :?:






..

 

[billbeee]

Hi Steve,
I served my time on an old 1 1/4" machine.
Many times I have heard a spindle moulder described as the most versatile machine in the shop. The reason that they are far more efficient than a router, is the size of the cutter heads, but that size needs power to drive it. Which means to my thoughts 3 phase power.

If you have three phase power available then you are open to heaps of possibilities for dirt cheap second hand old units. I saw an old combination machine, spindle/saw/tennoner with power feed that went for absolute peanuts at a recent auction where I live, far less that the new cost of a set of new cutters.

If you are looking for single phase stuff, join the queue, every man and his dog is looking for those.

Just curious, I guess you are making replacement new sash windows to match existing ones? Nobody is using them in new work, surely? If you are matching existing profiles, a spindle moulder is definitely the way to go, because you can grind up your own cutters.

On the downside, before I sign off, a lot of the old spindle hands had missing tips of fingers etc. It is (or was) known as the most dangerous machine in the shop. Take care.

Cheers
Bill (Australia)

 

[Steve-Sash]

Hi there and thanks for your replies,

Yes they are replacement sashes.So no need for Fensa. I have to match the the existing mouldings. Bristol/Bath sash city. Also i need to run various sizes of staff bead and parting bead with a 8mm channel to take a draught strip.

 

[jasonB]

Replacements will need Fensa or to be certified by Building control for a fee, if they are repairs ie just the sashes not complete box frames then you will be OK.

Jason

 

[OPJ]

On the downside, before I sign off, a lot of the old spindle hands had missing tips of fingers etc. It is (or was) known as the most dangerous machine in the shop. Take care.

Cheers
Bill (Australia)

You raise a very interesting point - and a lot of people are very wary of the potential dangers of using a spindle moulder. But, in my opinion, a router table is almost as dangerous. Statistically, the circular saw is the one machine that causes the most accidents each year (in the UK, anyway).

Spindle moulders appear to be improving in terms of appropriate guarding and limited cutter projection - which could account for some of the accidents in the past. Common sense is another issue! If it doesn't look safe or, you're not sure about something, don't start it until you've reconsidered.

Featherboards, hold-downs, anti-kickback devices and feed rollers are essential for any spindle moulder.

 

[Digit]

The old spindle moulders were dangerous with a capital D, probably the most dangerous in the shop. The reason was the method of fixing, or not fixing, the cutter in place. The modern blocks are no more dangerous than a planer as the cutter/s are well secured. On the old machines they could cast a cutter and you didn't want to be standing in the firing line!

Roy.

 

[OPJ]

They're the ones that were wedged in place, right? I've heard horror stories about them flying out and ending up in people's guts, etc...!! :shock: :?

 

[Digit]

That's the ones, you had about one tenth of a second to duck! And you didn't stand behind the chap who was on the machine either! :roll:

Roy.

 

[Steve-Sash]

Cheers guys that makes me feel like going out and buying one. !!!! :shock:

 

[Digit]

With the modern cutter block for what you are talking about doing I wouldn't hesitate. Take a look at Axminster's cat and you'll see for yourself how the cutters are secured now.

Roy.