MattRoberts
Established Member
Awesome work mate. Really professional build and install - I'm jealous! 
Sorry...another kitchen build. 99% finished.
- Thread starter mahomo59
- Start date
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Woodmonkey
Established Member
Great work, you make it look easy! Enjoy your holiday. If you go to edit your first post and edit the title there it should stick.
vanitycat
Established Member
Nice work fella. The finish looks really good. It has inspired me to persevere with a kitchen. After I have finished my futon build. Just have a couple of questions
1. Couldn't see how you attached the drawer fronts to the drawers. Was it just titebond? The way my fiancé slams cupboards I wander if glue is enough.
2. Also what primer did you use? Morrells?
3. I wouldn't mind taking a stab at lacquering process my self. Is there any type of gravity fed sprayer that you can recommend?
Alan
1. Couldn't see how you attached the drawer fronts to the drawers. Was it just titebond? The way my fiancé slams cupboards I wander if glue is enough.
2. Also what primer did you use? Morrells?
3. I wouldn't mind taking a stab at lacquering process my self. Is there any type of gravity fed sprayer that you can recommend?
Alan
Please go for it Alan it will make you feel very proud and accomplished.
1. Drawer fronts are screwed through the drawer boxes into the drawer panel. Four screws into the Stiles. Set the drawer on the runners, pre drill holes in drawer box front and place on drawer front with your margins set, lean over and into cabinet and screw. No glue required.
2. I'm a sucker for Morrells and always use their primer, just think it's best as they work well together. Neither primer or lacquer require thinning.
3. I use their own system ST1 three stage HVLP system, great set up. There are other branded versions of it out there, I believe Dulux do it as well. I spray primer, fill where required and sand. Primer again and two top coats. Both sides of doors etc. End panels and the like, just the face.
GO FOR IT!!!
1. Drawer fronts are screwed through the drawer boxes into the drawer panel. Four screws into the Stiles. Set the drawer on the runners, pre drill holes in drawer box front and place on drawer front with your margins set, lean over and into cabinet and screw. No glue required.
2. I'm a sucker for Morrells and always use their primer, just think it's best as they work well together. Neither primer or lacquer require thinning.
3. I use their own system ST1 three stage HVLP system, great set up. There are other branded versions of it out there, I believe Dulux do it as well. I spray primer, fill where required and sand. Primer again and two top coats. Both sides of doors etc. End panels and the like, just the face.
GO FOR IT!!!
vanitycat
Established Member
Thanks fella . For the inside of the cabinets I presume you used clear lacquer?
. For the inside of the cabinets I presume you used clear lacquer?vanitycat
Established Member
Sorry another question. What did you use to ensure the inset doors remain flush with the FF when closed I.e how did you prevent the door from going inwards.
I normally use these http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/Products.a ... g_id=64560 but couldn't as doors were 2mm thinner as order was messed up. These tuck up in corner behind the faceframe and are hardly seen. The set back is a rubber bumper thickness.
On this kitchen I used these http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/Products.a ... g_id=11722 and packed out with a piece of ply to clear/flush them up with FF and used slotted hole initially to line it up.
Hope this helps
James
On this kitchen I used these http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/Products.a ... g_id=11722 and packed out with a piece of ply to clear/flush them up with FF and used slotted hole initially to line it up.
Hope this helps
James
chippy1970
Established Member
Great job as usual James.
Shame about the Non integrated appliances they spoil the look a bit.
I like the under cloak detail, a lot of so called high end kitchen company's wouldn't do that. They leave unfinished so people have something ugly to look at whilst sat down in the kitchen lol.
What do you keep in your 3 drawer sortainer ? I picked one up the other week thinking it would come in handy but haven't got round to filling it yet.
Enjoy your hols
Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
Shame about the Non integrated appliances they spoil the look a bit.
I like the under cloak detail, a lot of so called high end kitchen company's wouldn't do that. They leave unfinished so people have something ugly to look at whilst sat down in the kitchen lol.
What do you keep in your 3 drawer sortainer ? I picked one up the other week thinking it would come in handy but haven't got round to filling it yet.
Enjoy your hols
Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
Cheers Chris
Yes I know, cost was nothing in it with two extra doors. They couldn't find decent energy rated integrated ones without spending a fortune. Love the under cloaks, simple, easy and inexpensive
Had the 3 drawer for about 6 months or so and under use it!!! Take it on every job, by it's not fully full, so far...pocket hole screws, screws, red brown plugs, plastic packers, sanding pad, pencils/markers, space plugs and more room to fill
Yes I know, cost was nothing in it with two extra doors. They couldn't find decent energy rated integrated ones without spending a fortune. Love the under cloaks, simple, easy and inexpensive
Had the 3 drawer for about 6 months or so and under use it!!! Take it on every job, by it's not fully full, so far...pocket hole screws, screws, red brown plugs, plastic packers, sanding pad, pencils/markers, space plugs and more room to fill
No skills
Established Member
That's a nice looking kitchen
Appliance manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot by charging more for built in stuff.
What size go do you leave between face frame and door?
Appliance manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot by charging more for built in stuff.
What size go do you leave between face frame and door?
chippy1970
Established Member
Sounds like what I will be sticking in mine. I did think of whacking all my pin guns in it. But some sort of fitting kit will make sense.mahomo59":52nxrgtb said:Cheers Chris
Yes I know, cost was nothing in it with two extra doors. They couldn't find decent energy rated integrated ones without spending a fortune. Love the under cloaks, simple, easy and inexpensive
Had the 3 drawer for about 6 months or so and under use it!!! Take it on every job, by it's not fully full, so far...pocket hole screws, screws, red brown plugs, plastic packers, sanding pad, pencils/markers, space plugs and more room to fill
Sent from my ALE-L21 using Tapatalk
No skills":20myv2b0 said:That's a nice looking kitchen
Appliance manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot by charging more for built in stuff.
What size go do you leave between face frame and door?
Shoot the doors into face frame using black plastic packer from the multi coloured pack of different sizes.
Great job James, really top notch!
Can I ask where you got the pre-lacquered maple from for the boxes? I'm trying to decide between doing that or using Blum Tandembox. Still need to find a reasonable price on Blum drawers.
Oh, and thanks for the heads up about the lacquered birch ply at Avon Plywood. I'm just starting my first kitchen build, doing the carcasses as we speak.
Cheers
Dave
Can I ask where you got the pre-lacquered maple from for the boxes? I'm trying to decide between doing that or using Blum Tandembox. Still need to find a reasonable price on Blum drawers.
Oh, and thanks for the heads up about the lacquered birch ply at Avon Plywood. I'm just starting my first kitchen build, doing the carcasses as we speak.
Cheers
Dave
scholar
Established Member
Hi
A very nice job and thanks for all the piccies.
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind:
- you mention that your painting system is two coats of primer and two topcoats, of which the final one is handpainted. How do you find using the Morrells paint for hand painting? (It seems very thin for brushing). Presumably this is applied after installation?
- what sheen level is the Morrells topcoat you have used? (I think the minimum used to be 20% which I find a bit too glossy, but they now seem to do 10% I think.
- Finally what is the bin system you have installed?
(OK, three or four questions!)
Cheers
A very nice job and thanks for all the piccies.
I have a couple of questions if you don't mind:
- you mention that your painting system is two coats of primer and two topcoats, of which the final one is handpainted. How do you find using the Morrells paint for hand painting? (It seems very thin for brushing). Presumably this is applied after installation?
- what sheen level is the Morrells topcoat you have used? (I think the minimum used to be 20% which I find a bit too glossy, but they now seem to do 10% I think.
- Finally what is the bin system you have installed?
(OK, three or four questions!)
Cheers
Hello...
Brush coat is applied on first top coat. Spray with gun and then brush while wet, leave to dry and spray final coat. 20% is what I use. Don't brush internals (backs of door)
Morrells if I remember go down to 0 if not 0 then definitely 10.
Bin unit is from LDLONLINE, based on Blum system. Next one I do will be in a regular drawer box, with no base and ledgers at the top spaced to carry bins.
Hope this helps
James
Brush coat is applied on first top coat. Spray with gun and then brush while wet, leave to dry and spray final coat. 20% is what I use. Don't brush internals (backs of door)
Morrells if I remember go down to 0 if not 0 then definitely 10.
Bin unit is from LDLONLINE, based on Blum system. Next one I do will be in a regular drawer box, with no base and ledgers at the top spaced to carry bins.
Hope this helps
James
scholar
Established Member
mahomo59":3jjfhaeo said:
That's very interesting and helpful James - thanks.
I am sure that the brush coat adds depth to the finished look of the colour - I will try your technique some time.
Cheers
mahomo59":1f8xi93r said:
James, in this photo, is the plinth foot just on the base panel or is it positioned up to the edge of the vertical side panel? Hope that makes sense, I'm just wondering if the side panel needs supporting by the foot? I guess in this case the face frame supports it as well but I'm doing a kitchen without face frames.
Thanks again for posting the thread.
Dave
