Shooting boards, how long do they last?

[DennisCA]

I've been looking at making a shooting board, for 90 and 45 degree miters. But one thing that always strikes me when I see them is, doesn't using them mean the plane's cutting into the fence that's keeping it straight?

Seems they must loose their squareness quite rapidly and require re-truing. Is this so, or have I missed something obvious? Is it perhaps the slight bit at the side of the plane where the iron does not reach, what keeps the shooting board from wearing down? If so I assume a hard timber is required here as the surface area the plane registers against is very small.

I have seen designs that seem to put the whole plane in a contraption to move it back and forth, also someone put a wooden fence on the planes side to raise it up, seemingly confirming that this can be an issue.

 

[bugbear]

Alf, late and lamented of this parish:

http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/rocketscience.html

BugBear

 

[Kalimna]

I've found that mine needs re-truing now and again because of user tendency to lean the plane on edge sometimes, which throws an otherwise excellent jig out of whack. I find that a shoulder plane makes a nice job of re-squaring the edge.

Cheers,
Adam

 

[Bluekingfisher]

Paul,

When you say late and lamented of this parish, you mean just the forum or..........................no more? :shock:

David

 

[Jelly]

I've found that mine needs re-truing now and again because of user tendency to lean the plane on edge sometimes, which throws an otherwise excellent jig out of whack. I find that a shoulder plane makes a nice job of re-squaring the edge.

Cheers,
Adam

This!

Also as mine is in a shared workshop, with people of varying skill some users project the Iron excessively which leaves a deep lip and lack of support at the edge using a more finely set plane, again rabbet, or sholuder plane saves the day.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

Shooting boards last a lot longer than bench hooks, usually!

 

[bugbear]

Paul,

When you say late and lamented of this parish, you mean just the forum or..........................no more? :shock:

David

Oh, just the forum. A mob with pitchforks and flaming torches drove her away. (*)

BugBear

(*) something like that, anyway. Sharpening may have been involved.

 

[Bod]

My shooting board has had its 25th birthday, and its made from plywood!

Bod

 

[Peter Sefton]

I've been looking at making a shooting board, for 90 and 45 degree miters. But one thing that always strikes me when I see them is, doesn't using them mean the plane's cutting into the fence that's keeping it straight?

Seems they must loose their squareness quite rapidly and require re-truing. Is this so, or have I missed something obvious? Is it perhaps the slight bit at the side of the plane where the iron does not reach, what keeps the shooting board from wearing down? If so I assume a hard timber is required here as the surface area the plane registers against is very small.

I have seen designs that seem to put the whole plane in a contraption to move it back and forth, also someone put a wooden fence on the planes side to raise it up, seemingly confirming that this can be an issue.

We use one in the School I designed a few years ago which is made with Slick Strips and a perspex running strip. If you send me your email address I will send you the drawing.

Cheers Peter

 

[David C]

Dennis,

The plane is guided by the 3/16" to 1/4" of sole where no blade protrudes.

This part of the baseboard should last more or less indefinitely.

David

 

[mouppe]

I need to true mine up every now and then, but the basic board has lasted me a few years now. The reasons are many.

Sometimes my blade is more exposed than normal and this will cut into the side of the running board. A small skew in the blade setting can affect the squareness of the cut. I have knocked the fence out of square at times. Dust can affect the cut.

I true it up with a shoulder plane and begin afresh.

 

[Bigdanny]

(hammer)
1423 hours and 23 minutes of use normally/

 

[Tony Zaffuto]

I've made 3 or 4 over the past half dozen or more years. Of course, I've only kept and used one, giving the others away!

I too use my large shoulder plane to true it every once in a while (and it's been quite a while since the last truing). I actually used it early yesterday and is still true. It is a ramped style, with a base of good plywood and well seasoned poplar everywhere else. It is also waxed regularly and is slippery as the lady of the house's behind!

Would I build a ramped shooting board again? Nah-that's just complicating a simple apparatus. I did put a bit of time into my bench hooks (again after a number of earlier ones), and I've been just a bit more careful with using this pair than earlier ones, and they are lasting nicely. I do have to say I made a "special" bench hook, much wider than typical, with saw kerfs to help guide the saw, and this one looks quite beat up, taking the abuse the others don't get. Again, I'm a bit anal about waxing surfaces-don't know if it helps, but it certainly doesn't hurt.

 

[rafezetter]

We use one in the School I designed a few years ago which is made with Slick Strips and a perspex running strip. If you send me your email address I will send you the drawing.

Cheers Peter

A picture would be enough

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

I've been looking at making a shooting board, for 90 and 45 degree miters. But one thing that always strikes me when I see them is, doesn't using them mean the plane's cutting into the fence that's keeping it straight?

Seems they must loose their squareness quite rapidly and require re-truing. Is this so, or have I missed something obvious? Is it perhaps the slight bit at the side of the plane where the iron does not reach, what keeps the shooting board from wearing down? If so I assume a hard timber is required here as the surface area the plane registers against is very small.

I have seen designs that seem to put the whole plane in a contraption to move it back and forth, also someone put a wooden fence on the planes side to raise it up, seemingly confirming that this can be an issue.

Hi Dennis

There are a bunch of articles on my website on shooting boards, mainly of the ramped type. I recommend a ramped board for a plane with a straight blade, and a flat board for a plane with a skew blade. The ramp aids in reducing the impact when the plane hits the board. This reduces jarring, and aids in limiting undesired movement.

Here is an example ..

The fence can be adjusted both to close up any gap at the blade, as well as to shoot mitres ..

Prevent the plane bouncing around (and ensuring accuracy) with a side fence ..

.. and shoot long mitres ...

A few links:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... oard4.html

That one will explain how a shooting board works, as well as show you different types.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... Board.html

Regards from Perth

Derek