PerranOak":1iiwa4wz said:What about those combination squares?
Paul Chapman":j3yhywsz said:PerranOak":j3yhywsz said:What about those combination squares?
Some people say they are OK but, personally, I wouldn't touch them with a barge pole. I've never used one that is accurate or even consistently inaccurate. I have two that I use for various measuring tasks but I never use them as squares.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
PerranOak":1s3h82y1 said:Well, I've made it! (The shooting board, that is!)
Oops! Good point!Davon":ciz7e9v0 said:PerranOak":ciz7e9v0 said:Well, I've made it! (The shooting board, that is!)
Excuse me....... Point of Order.................If what I understand is correct, PerranOak has NOT made a shooting board. NO PICS. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Davon
Davon":b4je9b17 said:Excuse me....... Point of Order.................If what I understand is correct, PerranOak has NOT made a shooting board. NO PICS. :lol: :lol: :lol:
newt":1f00iu07 said:For good shooting you do need a well set up plane, very sharp blade and a flat sole. Gill if you have to have the blade protruding a long way to get a cut that could mean the sole is not flat or the blade is dull or both. You also have to consider the type of wood and it thickness. Anything over 3/4" I may not bother to shoot if it is hard, I would just use a shallow angle plane in the conventional manner. Shooting end grain is a lot easier with a low angle plane LV LA jack is an example, you can also have a wide mouth set on the plane when working end grain. Try some shooting on some thinner wood say 5mm and see how you get on.
Gill":1673ii9o said:I'm also having difficulties using it. I've tried it with a Record #7, a Stanley #5 plane and a block plane, but none of them cut the wood smoothly. Their throats seem to clog and to get any sort of cut I have to make the blade protrude a long way.
newt":1u58m834 said:Perranoak, that shooting board looks the business and well made.
Gill":7w13u1yx said:I've tried it with a Record #7
PerranOak":eu0t9c72 said:Blimey! That's EXACTLY what is happening to me! I have had some good results but it's cost me one dodgy shoulder and everything on the shelves that wasn't nailed down - my "workshop" is a ricketty old shed - still, it has worked on occasion.
The plane often stops half way (because the blade it protrudes so far) unles I give it a massive, shelf trembling, welly of a stroke! We are talking 10 - 12mm softwoods here.
Also, I get tiny breakout - probably because I'm slamming it in?
Digit":21wkavvd said:My method is thus, set the iron and mouth very fine, place the plane on the runway and bring the workpiece up to the plane then shoot the end.
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