Shooting Board

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PerranOak

Established Member
Joined
10 Oct 2008
Messages
476
Reaction score
0
Location
St. Ives, Cornwall
How do shooting boards work?

I've started making one but wonder if they work very well for squaring-up end grain?

I get that you extend the board a little into the path of the plane but when the board is flush doesn't the plane cut the shooting board itself?
 
It cuts it to the depth of the exposed part of the iron, then the plane body rubbing against the the guide part of the runway prevents any further cutting.
Hope that explains it.

Roy.
 
The plane is on its side on the runway and is stopped from moving to the left by a raised section that the timber to be shot is resting on. This edge has the plane sole rubbing against it. The exposed part of the iron now can only remove a small amount of the guide face and can then remove no more.

Roy.
 
I was going to buy one but I guess they're easy to make - aren't they?
 
Not necessarily that easy Rob, getting the stop at right angles to the runway can be a problem
The way I do it is to drill for screws but glue the stop into place first using an accurate square to locate it in place before clamping.
When the glue is dry then I screw it all together.
In addition I fit a replaceable end on the cutting face of the stop.

Roy.
 
Here's another way. Rout a slot for the stop, which is made wedge-shaped

Shootingboard2.jpg


Shootingboard1.jpg


If the end of the stop gets damaged, just knock it out, plane a shaving off the sloping side, knock it back in and trim up.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
I tried that method Paul but found that the wedge on occasion would move.

Roy.
 
Well, I've made it! (The shooting board, that is!)

Two things:

1. Do I finish it with, say, danish oil? It made of ply, softwood cleat and stop with a hardwood facing. If so, do I danish oil ALL faces and edges including the runway and fence bits?

2. My square is out! No, honest. I squared the fence with my big try-square, all ok. The first piece I shot I tested with a different square - it's out. Long story short, one of the squares is out (I put them together). So, I need a new square but which one? Also, what do I do now that my shooting board is out - although it's only slight.
 
You can test the squares quite simply.
Place the square on a board with a good edge and draw a line with a sharp pencil, next roll the square over so that if the stock had been to the left it is now to the right.
A 'Square' square will show no error, and out of square one will not be parallel to the drawn line.

Roy.
 
I finish mine with wax polish - helps the plane to slide nicely on the runway.

If the fence is out slightly, use a piece of card or paper between the workpiece and the fence, at the appropriate end, to make up for the discrepancy. However, if it's out by a lot, it might be better to remove the fence and re-position it when you have a decent square.

The best squares are the all-metal engineers type.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
Thanks Digit, yes it is out by 1mm over its length, 150mm!!! Argh!

Paul, yes I need a decent one!

Can anyone recommend a REALLY accurate and stable square, say 150mm. I'm prepared to spend on this one!

Incidentally, I'll also need a mitre square.
 
Mine is Moore and Wright and it is fine, but the cheapo ones may not be so. The normal engineer's type from a reputable supplier comes with a guarantee of accuracy.

Roy.
 
Back
Top