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I don't have the iron protruding far so I don't know about that.

Roy.
 
PerranOak":aik0ig2y said:
I wonder, when you've used a plane on a shooting board with the blade sticking out a long way then pull it back, doesn't it leave a gap that would cause break-out?

Shooting boards work best with fine cuts, so the blade shouldn't be 'sticking out a long way'.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 
woodbloke":2uehokva said:
The plane setting for use on a shute is as you would have it normally set up for bench planing, it's not that different 'cept that the plane's on it's side - Rob
As I said earlier, the setting for a shooter is as you would have it for normal bench planing, which is generally finly set, smallish mouth and very sharp...it's not difficult :wink: - Rob
 
Well now you tell me! :)

Given that I've cocked my board with a blade that sticks out like a tranny's tackle, how can I redress the problem?

Should I sand the edge down and "re-commission" the board?
 
My method PO is a sacrificial face on the stop block, if you haven't taken that route and can now cut the damaged face away you should then be able to reface it now and in the future.

Roy.
 
I don't have a shooting board, but I have learnt by trial and error, that when edge planing, I get a much better finish if I turn the plane to say, 45 degs to the forward direction and use the cutting action as per a guillotine.

Rich.
 
Digit":1bz7s39l said:
My method PO is a sacrificial face on the stop block, if you haven't taken that route and can now cut the damaged face away you should then be able to reface it now and in the future.

So, the block is "used up" on each pass?
 
Rich - yes but you're probably very skilled, I'm not!


Now! Look at this:

woodburr.JPG


I did it! This end is square and smooth (for me!) ... except for, you'll see a little bit on the end like, not really tear-out but a very small burr, almost. It is on the end furthest from the plane start point.

Is it my stop block causing this?
 
No PO, once the face has been cut back by the amount that the iron protrudes through the sole of the plane no further removal of material from the face will occur.
If you have made cuts earlier with the iron protruding so far that cutting is difficult then retracted the iron, what will happen is that the piece you are cutting has now lost the support of the fence by the difference in the two depths of cut.

Roy.
 
Basically yes PO, but if the feather on the edge is small normally you can simply live with it. Alternatively plane the edge that rested against the fence/stop and remove any breakout that way.

Roy.
 
Digit":38t8g6m6 said:
Basically yes PO, but if the feather on the edge is small normally you can simply live with it. Alternatively plane the edge that rested against the fence/stop and remove any breakout that way.

I wonder ... if I shunted the facing piece on my stop block (it has a hardwood face) out a bit, that might help?

Thing is, I've screwed it in pretty firmly and, if I only move it by about 1/2mm or so I can't re-use the same screw holes without them ending-up oval and so causing the facing piece to be "mobile".
 
I wonder ... if I shunted the facing piece on my stop block (it has a hardwood face) out a bit, that might help?

That should do it, but remember PO, the edge always wears in the long term, which is why I use a sacrificial face and replace it as needed.

Roy.
 
Digit":3vmrf7uu said:
That should do it, but remember PO, the edge always wears in the long term, which is why I use a sacrificial face and replace it as needed.

Roy, can I see a picture of what you mean, I'm not sure that I really understand the sacrifical piece but like the sound of it.
 
Can't do any pics of mine PO as I have to confess that mine have been replaced by a very fine toothed TS blade and a cross cut sled....

http://www.whitemountdesign.com/Shootin ... 1_-PSD.JPG

... but here is one way of of achieving it. Another way is the shorten the fence and fit a piece on the end, either by gluing or with a couple of counter sunk screws.
Or save for a decent TS, (Duck, run!)

Roy.
 
Hello all,

How funny, I was just thinking about a shooting board myself. I made one years ago when I was in school (Chalk and slate days) and was wondering the exact same thing, that the plane must shave the edge off??
And then all you clever people come on here and allow me to sleep tonight,
Thanks,
Pete
 
Hello Roy,
When you talk about a "sacrificial face" do you mean the long face/edge that the plane runs along?
Sorry to be so thick.

Pete
 
Pete Hughes":2v4evk84 said:
... wondering the exact same thing, that the plane must shave the edge off?

It's all to do with the little bit on the plane where the blade fails to reach the edge. It formas a slight ridge that permits the clear flow of the plane along the run. It works. Amazing!
 
PO - t'would be far easier if someone could show you how a well set up shooter works...shame Alf has departed as she was in your neck of the woods - Rob
 
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