Screw Removers, any good?

[RossJarvis]

I can't find anything under search, but I'm sure I remember someone talking about this. Are screw removers any good, such as the Trend Grab it;

https://www.trenddirectuk.com/grab-se1-set

I'm going to need to take up some decking, as non-destructively as possible and strangely enough the screw heads don't appear to be in the best of condition :shock:

I'm using a brand new Wera diamond Impaktor bit, straight from the packet, so that's not the problem.

 

[bugbear]

What kind of screw heads are they (or were they, when they went in...) ?

BugBear

 

[RossJarvis]

What kind of screw heads are they (or were they, when they went in...) ?

BugBear

Posi 2, the heads are now rusty so not stainless, probably not green "decking screws" either.

 

[morfa]

Complete and utter carp. I bought a similar set from Screwfix and they were worse than useless.

I've had much more luck with doing it by hand with a piece of rubber. It's a tip I got off here I think and it works really well.

Otherwise you're better off drilling out the whole thing.

 

[SteveF]

I had this issue PITA
I had a bit of luck my screws were not fully threaded
after trying to drill the head out...slow process
I found that some had already sheered off
I ended up using a floorboard clamp with a piece of angle attached to top
tighten up the straps and a tap with a persuader snapped the rest
lift up the board and molegrip the remaining screw in the frame..if you need to bother

Steve

 

[morfa]

Oh and this is why you ought to use nails for decking. Always going to be easier if you might remove in the future. Looks nicer as well IMO.

 

[MikeJhn]

I have never had any success with screw/bolt removers, in timber I usually use a plug maker around the screw and then take it out with a mole grip, then make good the hole with the proper size plug (obviously) and put the new screw adjacent, not through the plug.

Mike

 

[RossJarvis]

Thanks for all the replies guys, looks like I'll not be getting a set of these.

 

[bugbear]

What kind of screw heads are they (or were they, when they went in...) ?

BugBear

Posi 2, the heads are now rusty so not stainless, probably not green "decking screws" either.

I would attempt to remove them using a good bit, held in a hand brace, either 10" or 12" sweep.

If that fails, proceed to the more destructive methods mentioned elsewhere in the thread.

BugBear

 

[RossJarvis]

My Mistake, they are green "decking" Screws, I found one that wanted to come out and in between the brown rust and shiny steel there was some green, whatever that may be.

I generally find the application of persuader to a knock through screwdriver gives best results but I am incredibly lazy. All I've got to do now is convince the customer that I'm justified in charging more for getting the old decking up than putting the new down

 

[RobinBHM]

if you are chucking the old deck timber could you just use a skil saw either side of the screws, take up the board sections and knock off the short pieces that remain and then snap the screw heads or angle grind off?

 

[RossJarvis]

if you are chucking the old deck timber could you just use a skil saw either side of the screws, take up the board sections and knock off the short pieces that remain and then snap the screw heads or angle grind off?

I was hoping to cause as little damage as possible so as not to damage the boards, as I just wanted to see what was underneath (customer over shoulder!). Was seeing whether or not we could re-use the supports and how easy it would be to get the decking off without damaging the joists.

After scientific research for a couple of hours the results are; Screws removed directly with drill/driver: 1, Screws removed with impact driver: 0, Brand new HSS drill bits destroyed: 1 (after 4 screws), Small fires started: 1, Near death experiences due to slipping on slimy decking: 8 :shock: , Decking boards broken: 1 (now hidden under large flower pot) .

I discovered a good quality knock-through screw driver seems best (Wera 900 series). A few taps with a hammer and if it's going to come out it will, a few turns and the drill/driver will do the rest. If it aint gonna come out you can punch the screw down through the board (hammer) .

Non-destructive means seem unlikely for removal of the boards so I think it's time for the Jemmy. Re-use of current support structure.....unlikely.

 

[MikeJhn]

Hmmm did you see this reply?

I have never had any success with screw/bolt removers, in timber I usually use a plug maker around the screw and then take it out with a mole grip, then make good the hole with the proper size plug (obviously) and put the new screw adjacent, not through the plug.

Mike

Using the above method will get the boards up with the minimum damage obviously plug drill around all the screws in a board, lift the board off and then use the mole grips, and with a correctly set stop system will not compromise the joists either.

Mikeob

 

[RossJarvis]

Hmmm did you see this reply?

I have never had any success with screw/bolt removers, in timber I usually use a plug maker around the screw and then take it out with a mole grip, then make good the hole with the proper size plug (obviously) and put the new screw adjacent, not through the plug.

Mike

Using the above method will get the boards up with the minimum damage obviously plug drill around all the screws in a board, lift the board off and then use the mole grips, and with a correctly set stop system will not compromise the joists either.

Mikeob

Yep, that was one option but I really don't know where my plug cutters are :? , plus I've never been able to use one in a hand-held drill with any accuracy, I always use them in a drill press.

 

[Mark A]

Do you have a Dremel-type rotary tool? They can be used to cut a slot in the head of the screw or bolt to accommodate a flat screwdriver. I wouldn't like to extract an entire deck-worth of screws with this method, mind.

The fast way would be to cut either side of the screws with a circular saw, split the short bits of timber left in position with a chisel or axe and then unwind the screws with vice grips.

 

[SteveF]

hole saw just to the side of screw?

Steve

 

[TFrench]

I'd be reaching for the angle grinder. Grind a slot into all the heads with a thick disc till you get to the shank of the screw, jemmy the boards off and slice all the bits of screw off with a slitting disc. There's a time and a place for messing about with a plug cutter, this isn't it!

 

[ColeyS1]

Fowards backwards forwards backwards forwards then either backwards and out, or snap [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH]

Coley

 

[MikeJhn]

I'd be reaching for the angle grinder. Grind a slot into all the heads with a thick disc till you get to the shank of the screw, jemmy the boards off and slice all the bits of screw off with a slitting disc. There's a time and a place for messing about with a plug cutter, this isn't it!

I'd like to see you do that as non destructively as possible as the OP asked in the first post.

Mike

 

[TFrench]

I'd be reaching for the angle grinder. Grind a slot into all the heads with a thick disc till you get to the shank of the screw, jemmy the boards off and slice all the bits of screw off with a slitting disc. There's a time and a place for messing about with a plug cutter, this isn't it!

I'd like to see you do that as non destructively as possible as the OP asked in the first post.

Mike

You can't do it - but later on he said he's replacing the decking. At least that way you only lose the boards, the joists below aren't being abused by having screws ripped out of them. Plus its a paying job - no customer is going to want to stand the bill for getting each one out individually...