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samhay":16mrw97z said:
sunnybob":16mrw97z said:
samhay":16mrw97z said:
HISTORY LESSON!!! That was my apprenticeship I was talking about.
(hammer) (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) 8)

My son thinks the olden days were any time before he was born.
He's seven.
I guess it's all relative.

My Nan who was "in service" in a big house before she got maried, was a young girl when the cowboys were still fighting the indians, and the indians were winning! :shock:

I do have a tip for all those people who suffer from sliding seats on their toilets.
Fill the two holes with wine corks. Then drill a hole down through them just a bit tighter than the seat bolts and screw the bolts down through the corks. assemble the seat, tighten the nuts below the corks, and youll never fall off again. =D> =D>
 
My offspring have learned how to swear by listening to me when I'm plumbing. Why is all plumbing stuff a) made in China, and b) the wrong size for whichever job it is supposed to do? Nothing works, nothing fits properly, and a 2 minute job takes three days and at least two trips to the plumbing shop to get replacements and/or other bits necessary to repair/replace the bit you are attaching to, which is now broken/incompatible/Chinese.

Personally, I believe plumbers are worth every penny they charge, because their lives are an unending misery of failed parts and impossible to access bolts that are too corroded to undo.

I loathe and detest plumbing, and have to do far too much of it, far too often. And don't get me started on water pumps! Makes me seethe! The money I have spent...

{Nurse? Nurse? NURSE!!!???}
 
sunnybob":uduqjmso said:
.......... Fill the two holes with wine corks. Then drill a hole down through them just a bit tighter than the seat bolts and screw the bolts down through the corks. assemble the seat, tighten the nuts below the corks, and youll never fall off again. =D> =D>

Now that is a good idea.
 
Due to an inherent design flaw in many pans, the problem with the cork or the rubber bungs that I used (which do work) is that the seat mount is pulled to the dead centre of the hole ........... which then means the seat doesn't stay up when you raise it. ](*,)
 
Amazing, isn't it that we can design robotic probes to fly beyond our solar system, machines to heat a plasma hotter than the sun. Yet, a toilet seat that (a) stays up and (b) doesn't slide around, hmm, that's a tough one.
 
Trainee,I want to get you started on yes you guessed it,pumps!My daughter has recently moved into another house,went to bath the grandkids and lol and behold no water comes out of the hot tap for the bath on investigation it seems that the system is fitted with a shower booster pump that doesn't work .A plumber who came to fix the stop tap as another fault had a look and said (the pumps ad it mate needs a new one)he advised one called a Salamander,sraght swap easy to do but if you pay a plumber labour charges would be (short intake of breath. £90. Looks easy to me just turn off a gate valve uncouple and replace,am I missing something or is it really that simple and can I save my daughter a few pounds that would come in handy at this time of year.
 
MikeG.":1t7i9wc5 said:
sunnybob":1t7i9wc5 said:
.......... Fill the two holes with wine corks. Then drill a hole down through them just a bit tighter than the seat bolts and screw the bolts down through the corks. assemble the seat, tighten the nuts below the corks, and youll never fall off again. =D> =D>

Now that is a good idea.


and to get two corks requires? two bottles of wine :D :D dont attempt the plumbing just after you have attempted the wine :( (hammer)
 
I've just replaced the pressure switch on the house supply. while there, I decided to renew some fittings.
Brass 1" T, brass 1" x 3/8" nipple. One brass 1" x nipple.
Bear in mind I made my first pipe joints on black iron gas pipe in 1964 :shock: Suddenly, all these threads are parallel. Run the nipples all the way into the T by hand!
W.T.F.?
How can you make those water tight?
Answer, 2 rolls of ptfe tape on 5 joints. (hammer) (hammer)
Thats NOT progress.

As far as swapping shower booster pumps, yes, it really is that easy. As long as you can make water tight joints.

Is it a twin pump? 4 pipes? if so, and the hot and cold doesnt work, it might be simplest to replace it. If the motor actually runs but no water comes out, double check there isnt a stop cock turned off upstream
Pumps that run but dont pump water can be repaired quite cheaply if you A/ know what youre doing, or B/ are prepared to take the time to learn.
I've just replaced a single stage in a multi stage pump, 300 euro to buy another pump, 40 euro for the single stage.

Make sure you have drained the system before undoing a union (some water will still run out so be prepared with some old towels), and after completion, check all the fittings for leaks while the pump is running.
 
Normally, there will be a brass union connection on each end of the flexible hose.
If so, youre unlikely to have a problem. The unions are either tapered face, in which case clean the faces with 0000 wire wool untill they shine,
or they will be O ring or fibre washer. In which case get new O rings (or washers) and clean everything with 0000 wire wool till they shine before fitting the new O ring.

Use 2 spanners, one on the union and one of the base of the union holding against the one youre tightening with so that you counter balance the force used.If its O ring, dont get all ARNIE on the spanner, if it weeps you can tighten a bit more with no problems. Washers can take more wellie.
those flexible hose joints only leak if you dont prepare.
 
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