Routing hinge recesses

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fezman

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Hi All,

I bought some of these recently
https://www.prokraft.co.uk/standard-sid ... ating.html

I've made an Ash box, and have just cut the recesses for these by hand - and it was a bit of a faff.

I would like some tips on a jig to help rout these. I have a katsu trimmer and would be happy to buy the plunge attachment to use a guide bush.

I also have a Trend CRT router table, which would cut the recesses on the RHS of the box, but I would have to cut in the wrong router direction for the LHS of the box.

I always seem to struggle with getting hinges perfect, so any advice would be very welcome.

Thanks
Ian
 
fezman":175xasrd said:
I also have a Trend CRT router table, which would cut the recesses on the RHS of the box, but I would have to cut in the wrong router direction for the LHS of the box.

That's how I cut hinge mortices for that type of box hinge. On a router table, and where necessary I feed the workpiece from left to right.

I appreciate that technically it's a climb cut, but it's such a shallow cut I've never found it a problem. I use an up-cut 8mm spiral bit so the waste doesn't get packed in the cut, and I ensure that the stop block, which is cramped to the router table fence, has a heavy chamfer at the bottom to prevent sawdust or chips becoming trapped between the stop and the workpiece.

You just take a firm grip on your box, feed it slowly in up to the stop block, then while the cutter is still running slide it back out again and then switch off the router. Once the router has stopped spinning I carefully clean away any sawdust then crack on with the next piece.

One more thing, I make up a spacer block (exactly 8mm shorter than the required length of the hinge mortice) that fits between the cutter and the stop block, this ensures the mortices on the right and left of both the box and the lid are all precisely the same length.

I'm sure there are lots of different methods, but that's what I do and my boxes always seem to turn out okay,
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Thanks Stevef & Custard. Thats exactly what i was after.

Custard those are nice boxes, just what I am aspiring to.
 
Jacob":2f9tg3fi said:
I'd stick with doing it by hand. It'll only get better!

Definitely. A few gauge lines, a few cuts with a sharp chisel, and a bit of paring.... doesn't take long to get the knack.
 
I think people need to look at the type of hinge the op is fitting before giving advise.
I have fitted them and a router table is the only way to cut the slots for them.

Pete
 
Both Andrew Crawford & Ian Hawthorne (professional box makers) who both used to make these type of hinges (only Andrew does now) both use the router table method as described. Far more accurate than by hand.
 
I use the router table, but 90 degrees out from custards version. (I know, I'm just awkward!)

I use the fence as the stop. Clamp a long stop block to the left of the cutter. the distance out that you want the cut to be. Then I run the piece of wood along the stop block, into the cutter untill it reaches the fence. carefully retreat, and cut again. I would make three cuts for that hinge.
That way the cutter always attacks the wood in the correct direction.
 
Glynne":1994yy3f said:
Both Andrew Crawford & Ian Hawthorne (professional box makers) who both used to make these type of hinges (only Andrew does now) both use the router table method as described. Far more accurate than by hand.

Depends how accurate your hand work is.
 
It's bound to be more accurate by router than by hand - it just depends whether the set up time is justified. If I were doing several doors I'd think about it, for a one off it would be done by hand before I found the gear.
 
Pete Maddex":1apc65cx said:
I think people need to look at the type of hinge the op is fitting before giving advise.
I have fitted them and a router table is the only way to cut the slots for them.

Pete

It's not the only way. One of these hinges requires two dadoes with rounded ends, unless I'm missing something? I suppose the rounded ends make the dadoes a bit more complicated that ones with a square end, but a router table is certainly not the only way to go about it.
 
For a one off much quicker by hand. There are plenty of ways of picking out the round end. Simplest would be any gouge of smaller radius.
 
This style of hinge was designed from the ground up for installation with a router table. If you want to work with hand tools that's okay, just use butt hinges. Trying to set this style of hinge with hand tools is a blue print for a gappy mess. It really is that simple, if anyone wants to claim otherwise then show us the photos of the boxes you've made.
 
custard":3kvedwv1 said:
This style of hinge was designed from the ground up for installation with a router table. If you want to work with hand tools that's okay, just use butt hinges. Trying to set this style of hinge with hand tools is a blue print for a gappy mess. It really is that simple, if anyone wants to claim otherwise then show us the photos of the boxes you've made.

I've never used this exact type of hinge, but I'm struggling to see why it would be so hard? Obviously a router table is much faster if you are doing several of them.
 
Both the Smart Hinge (Andrew Crawford) and the Neat Hinge (Ian Hawthorne initially) were manufactured to be fitted by a router - so the width dimensions were exactly that that could be cut by a router bit. Off the top on my head I think I think both were 8mm, so both the width and the semicircular end will fit a groove cut by a router bit. I don’t think anyone is saying that they can’t be cut by hand, but with no disrespect to anyone’s hand skills, I can’t see how a router bit could be matched let alone beaten.
 
thomashenry":3keqdubs said:
custard":3keqdubs said:
This style of hinge was designed from the ground up for installation with a router table. If you want to work with hand tools that's okay, just use butt hinges. Trying to set this style of hinge with hand tools is a blue print for a gappy mess. It really is that simple, if anyone wants to claim otherwise then show us the photos of the boxes you've made.

I've never used this exact type of hinge, but I'm struggling to see why it would be so hard? Obviously a router table is much faster if you are doing several of them.

A router table is faster even if you're doing just the four cuts for a single box.

The problem with a box is that if you want a quality result then the tolerances are extremely tight, a gap that might be acceptable on a large cabinet or on joinery work looks like crepe on a box. Any inaccuracy in setting the hinges means the lid won't sit true, it'll be gappy on one side or skewed off at an angle. The standard I want is that when someone holds the box their fingers won't perceive any offset between the lid and the base. With a bit of care you can hit those standards quickly and consistently using this style of hinge with a router table.

But hey, the proof of the pudding's in the eating, if anyone can post photos showing how they've installed this type of hinge with hand tools then I'm open to having a discussion.
 
Not one the same but I've cut hundreds of hinge pockets all by hand including some with rounded corners (intended for routing).
Routing often difficult - hinge in a rebate or near the inside corner of a cabinet etc etc so doing it by hand is usually first choice. But for a production run of identical items you'd have to look at using a machine if poss.
Obviously if you've got the kit and are able to set it up easily it would be quicker than by hand, but the OP hadn't and/or couldn't and was only doing one pair of hinges.
 
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