Router table - what am I doing wrong?

[celston]

Hello folks,

I'm attempting to use my newly constructed router table to cut some ~100mm diameter circular holes in 18mm ply (to be used in the home-made blast gate for said table). I've made a template in 12mm MDF using handheld router and trammel. I've removed most of the waste (to within approx 1mm of the line) from the inside of the circle. The template is screwed on top of the workpiece, and I'm using a 1/4" bottom bearing bit in the table. The template is large enough so that my hands are never close to the cutter. The router cutter is rotating counter-clockwise, therefore I am moving the workpiece clockwise against the cut (I *think* this is correct). I am attempting to take shallow cuts - which requires a surprising amount of coordination.

Twice now the router has grabbed the work out of my hands - the second time ejecting it across the workshop (away from me, thankfully). Which is why I'm here now asking what daft thing it is that I'm doing :roll:

I've pretty much resolved to flip the problem round and clamp the work + template to the bench and use the handheld router - something I've done before successfully many times. But I'd be grateful if someone could point out the error of my ways for future reference.

Cheers,

Chris.

 

[Wuffles]

Is the router locked in place? So when you apply pressure it can't move off axis, which would alter the centre of the cutter and might do what you've experienced?

Just a long shot.

 

[Chrispy]

I'm not sure what your problem is but trying to cut 18mm ply with a 1/4" cutter may well have a lot to do with it, 12 or15mm on a 1/2" shank would be much better.

 

[carlb40]

First off make sure you are using a starting pin with any freehand template routing on a table.
2nd use some form of grip pad as they are easier to hold down the piece while moving in and routing. Plus if you slip you lose a corner of the pad, not a finger.
As the router is now upside down you need to feed the items from right to left to stop the bit grabbing the timber and making a mess of it.

 

[ColeyS1]

Is it a decent branded router bit or a bent/buckled soft as butter cutter ? If you're going the right way with the template you should be able to feed it quite slowly but consistently- especially if you're only removing 1mm ! Could it be you loosen your grip without realising perhaps ?

 

[celston]

Router is definitely locked in place.

It's a 1/2" router, so I could up the cutter size. I have a much bigger 1/2" template bit, but I think it's a top-bearing, so I'd have to flip the work/template the other way up.

I'm not sure I could make use of the starting pin - I'm routing an internal circle. But on that note - which is the correct direction of feed for a circular hole? Should the work move clockwise or counter-clockwise around the bit?

The 1/4" cutter is a hobby (green) trend profiling cutter - so perhaps overstretched a bit for this job?

Thanks for the ideas. Not sure if I should try with the bigger cutter or go with the previous plan of doing it freehand - I'm tempted to try the bigger cutter to see if I can nail down whether it's equipment or technique to blame. Do bigger cutters grab more or less (or indeed throw the work harder!?)

 

[carlb40]

Ahhh an internal cut, i would definitely do that free hand not on a router table.

 

[Steve Maskery]

You should be feeding the work in the opposite diretion to that which the cutting edge is moving, So on a RT the cutting edge is moving, at the front, towards the operator. Therefore, the workpiece should be pushed against that. There are two ways in which that can be accomplished.

1 Keep the template against the same part of the bearing all the time. This means rotating the whole thing CLOCKWISE
2 Do not rotate the workpiece at all, but sweep the whole thing in an ANTICLOCKWISE direction, so that the workpiece bears against all points around the bearing.

The effect is the same.

If it is being snatched out of your hands then somehow you are pushing in the wrong direction.

S

 

[celston]

1 Keep the template against the same part of the bearing all the time. This means rotating the whole thing CLOCKWISE
2 Do not rotate the workpiece at all, but sweep the whole thing in an ANTICLOCKWISE direction, so that the workpiece bears against all points around the bearing.

CLANG! (sound of large penny dropping)

I have been doing #2, but clockwise. Which probably explains things.

Thanks Steve!

 

[Normancb]

Visualise the cutter as like a small circular saw blade. You wouldn't stand behind a saw and feed wood from the back of the blade. You almost always need to be feeding the work into the front of the cutter (there are a few exceptions when routing but it is a pretty good general rule)

 

[wcndave]

Clockwise on internal cut and anti for external cut when using hand held. Therefore the opposite when the router is upside down. Just need to remember to do the opposite, and it all makes sense.

 

[ColeyS1]

Visualise the cutter as like a small circular saw blade. You wouldn't stand behind a saw and feed wood from the back of the blade. You almost always need to be feeding the work into the front of the cutter (there are a few exceptions when routing but it is a pretty good general rule)

That's the best explanation of which direction to feed workpiece I've ever heard !

 

[andersonec]

Hello folks,

The router cutter is rotating counter-clockwise, therefore I am moving the workpiece clockwise against the cut (I *think* this is correct). I am attempting to take shallow cuts - which requires a surprising amount of coordination.


Chris.

Your cutter is rotating in a clockwise direction, not anti clockwise, hence the reason your work is being grabbed, just change the direction of feed of your work.

Andy