Routing query\advice

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Skeety

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Hi All,

Going to be using the router tomorrow for probably by biggest project involving the router so far and would appreciate some advice. It will hopefully form my first torsion box\MFT type workbench. This is only the top section.

As you can see from the picture i need to remove 2 main areas from the 18mm (17.1mm measured) ply, the first area at the top is 20mm wide, this will be a slot 9.5mm deep to accept a T track. There are then the elongated access holes. The marking of the access hole is just a guide, i have made a template.

The question are as follows?

For the T track slots they need to be done to all 4 sides. Would you set the router to the top dimension and then rout each to the full depth (9.5mm) then go to the next part of the table before adjusting the fence and then doing the second part of the slot to all 4 or do them one at a time with both cuts to make up the 20mm?

I'm planning\thinking to do the slots first before the larger holes.

For the access holes i'm planning to jigsaw the holes out roughly before finishing them with the template I have made. I have a top bearing template cutter ready for this. In some areas I can clamp the jig but also thinking about using double sided tape? Is that a good idea or not? Can i use double sided tape onto masking tape so it doesn't pull the ply veneer off?

Still pretty new to routing, really appreciate the advice.

Cheers,

Jon.
 

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For the T track slots they need to be done to all 4 sides. Would you set the router to the top dimension and then rout each to the full depth (9.5mm) then go to the next part of the table before adjusting the fence and then doing the second part of the slot to all 4 or do them one at a time with both cuts to make up the 20mm?
I would work on the basis of minimum setting changes to the router. So set it up for the first slot cut then do all 4 panels. Repeat until the 20mm wide slot is achieved. I would get to the 9.5mm depth in 2 stages. Cut the channel furthest from the face edge first, then if you fail to keep the fence on the face edge the cutter will be wandering into waste material.
In some areas I can clamp the jig but also thinking about using double sided tape? Is that a good idea or not? Can i use double sided tape onto masking tape so it doesn't pull the ply veneer off?
I would screw the pattern to the workpiece. Arrange to have the screw hole on the inside of the panel where it won't be seen on the finished product. If you want you use tape the masking/DS sandwich sounds like a good idea as it will be a little bit squashy and therefore have a better chance of adhering well. DS residues can be difficult to remove.
Brian
 
I use double sided tape on masking tape in situations like this as you are suggesting. I would highly reccomend carpet tape over standard double sided tape though, it is much stronger and wider. I have had experiences before with normal double sided tape where there isn't enough hold and it ends up in chatter.

https://www.toolstation.com/double-sided-carpet-tape/p82644
 
Thanks all,

Going well so far! Thanks for the tip about starting on the furthest part of the groove for the track.

Steep learning curve lol. Bigger project and new router to get used to.

Great feeling working inside after years in the garden lol.

Jon.
 

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