Rip cutting with a chainsaw

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We cut about 8-10 cords a year as a kid (that's what we heated with, and we split in the summer). Dad never had a large saw, just a 16" bar saw with a 61cc motor. He was interested in short bar for a given saw size (never figured that out). That means on Y rounds and other wood that wouldn't split, we sawed the rounds into half or quarter often. We went vertical, top to bottom, no angle, and not cutting noodles (which is laying the bar in the direction of tree height and not across its width).

That was before the internet, so we didn't know you shouldn't do it. Two saws did 15 years of bucking and felling and cutting rounds. It was a little slow, as mentioned here, but by the time you wore yourself out splitting and got to one of those rounds, standing over the saw and letting it go down into the cut slowly didn't seem that bad.

Our saws - mac's near worst in my opinion (promac 610 automatic) had automatic oiling and a manual oiler button to add more. Any time we were ever in any long cut, bucking or not, dad taught me to occupy myself hitting the manual oiler once in a while. We never had a bar/chain heat problem, but a few pushes of the manual oiler button and you could see the oil fly. How could you get into a long cut with a 16" bar? Simple - bucking 25-30" wood with a saw that didn't have that much chain speed (lots of torque, though).
 
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