Record TS200c Sliding Carriage Setup

[jedmc571]

Hello all,

I need some advice on setting up the sliding carriage on this TS, I'm just wondering if what I'm doing is correct?

Record Tech support have told e to set it up 1 to 1.5 mm above the cast table?

In BWW it's suggested ( as Martin Chapman has done ) to clamp timbers to the cast table, clamp the sliding table to that and then tighten the nuts, which would make it level?

I've struggled all day with it trying to set it up, and didn't get a great response from Record in saying that the guy I spoke to originally was great, anyway.......In my head I keep thinking that if the carriage is 1.5 mm highre, then I'll get a chamfered cut if I'm ripping a piece larger then the 610mm capacity or should I be using it purely as a sliding carriage? and keeping my rips under 610mm?

This is my first foray into a more substantial machine, and l'm more than happy with it, this little quandry has got my head reeling,

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Jed

 

[woodbloke]

I've set the sliding carriage up on my Kity so that it's level with the top of the main table...to set it higher doesn't make any sense to me - Rob

 

[Martingchapman]

Jed,
As you have already seen I have set mine up level with the saw table.
This has worked fine for me ever since I have had the saw.
I rip with the waste running on the sliding table (with the table fixed in position) with no problems.
I also cross cut with the waste running on the saw table, again with no problems.
I cant see that setting the sliding table above the saw table is going to do anything other than cause you problems.

Martin.

 

[Karl]

Jed - get them flush. I can't see why you would want to have the sliding carriage higher than the main table :duno:

If you need a hand I am around tomorrow and Friday.

Cheers

Karl

 

[jedmc571]

Cheers Fellas :wink:

I set it flush, and it's a dream.

I can only echo Martins sentiments in his comprehensive post about the Record TS a while ago.

I have to admit loosing it a few times trying to get it right, and I managed to shear the same bolt as Martin but I made good with a nut and bolt with a spring washer :wink:

It cut's beautifully, and as accurate as you'll ever get ( granted I had to re drill the measure scale mounting holes, but other than that it's sweet

I ripped and crosscut some 18mm oak, it's just so different to my old TS, just the noise of the motor let's you know their's power there, and then some 2" hardwood ( not sure what it is ) but it cruised through without even a difference in pitch.

I know it's had differing reviws, but I have to say, for me personally it's everything I wanted from a new saw, and with 5 years backup, it's really a no brainer, I find myself getting caught up in the "keeping up with the Jones's" scenario, and looking at what others like, rather than what suits me.

I just need to do the riving knife and mitre guage mods, and I'm all set to go.

Thanks for the help

Jed

Karl thanks for the offer mate, I think I'm good now, but the kettles always on if you want a shufty round, I might need some muscle with my latest purchase, which is coming tomorrow 8) and have a load of 15 & 18mm MFC 1200 x 1000 about 10 sheets which you might wnat ? £15 to a blagger like you :lol:

 

[OPJ]

Jed, pleased to hear some more positive comments on this model. There don't appear to be many members of this forum who own one. It's a shame Record don't do a 'saw only' option... Not only would that reduce the cost a bit but you could build in to your own 'station' with a router table alongside. I can't think of another saw in this price range (I think the SIP's a bit dearer now?) that'll cut 3in. either.

I'd also be interested to hear how you get on with the cross-cutting sled/sliding beam... It looks okay for small stuff but I've always feared it's not wide enough for even quarter-sheets - unless you add your own MDF/ply sled?

One benefit in having the table/beam 1mm higher is that your work piece won't foul or 'bind' on the table to the right of the blade... But, as you stated, it also has an effect when you're ripping. I wouldn't try to cross-cut a long, sawn length of timber on a saw like this. Even if it's slightly bowed, you'll probably find it binds on the right-hand table.

Best of luck with your new purchase. Do please keep us informed! :wink:

 

[Martingchapman]

Here are some views of my combined Record TS200 saw and router table unit.
The router table is made up using the Trend Pro Router table top and Fence (all parts of this table are available individually from Trend, but you can buy the Fence as a complete unit). In the router table is the large Triton half inch router.

The saw sits on one end of the unit with a Festool CT33 extractor beneath it, to the right of this is a box containing a Leigh 18 Superjig and on top of this is a plastic tray with all the extractor accessories in it.
The router table is set at the same height as the saw table, behind the saw, so both tops act as in-feed and out-feed tables respectively.
The front edge of the router table top is set just behind the back edge of the saw sliding table. This enables the saw sliding table to be used for end routing (coping cuts on the end of a door stile for example) on the router table.

Behind the saw is the router table and underneath this is storage for Festool systainers and various tools

Here is a view of the saw set in rip mode

Here is a view of the saw in cross cut mode

Here is a view of the router table in edge routing mode, I removed the saw blade top guard and dropped the saw blade (with the riving knife) below the top of the table

Here is a view of the router table in end routing mode using the saws sliding table, again I removed the saw blade top guard and dropped the saw blade (with the riving knife) below the top of the table although this is not strictly necessary depending on the width of the timber you are routing

Here is a view of the Triton router fitted in the table

To mount the Triton Router in the Trend table, all I had to do was drill one extra hole in the router table top and then mount the router through the existing/new holes with a couple of M6 countersunk bolts, washers and nuts.
Here is a view of the router fixings

Hope this is of interest to other Record TS200 users.

Jed,
Sorry, I have hijacked your original thread but OPJ comments prompted me to post this which I have had on my list for a while, hope you don’t mind.

Martin.

 

[OPJ]

Thanks, Martin, that's very interesting. Most people would've have fitted their router table/extension to the right of the blade. I like the way you've utilised the saw's beam for cross-grain work on the router table though.

I guess you don't have a need to rip many wide boards or sheets?

 

[Martingchapman]

Olly,
Thanks for the comments.
My workshop is only about 2.2m wide and 5m long internally so I don't have the room to cut full size boards.
I can rip up to about 350mm off the side of a 610mm x 1220m sheet which is the biggest I can handle on the saw on my own.
If I need to rip or cross cut anything bigger I use a Festool TS55 plunge saw and guide rail which, in my opinion, is not only easier but safer on larger sheets.
I have made a sacrificial top that is fixed to, and slides down behind, the bench which I use with the TS55, if I get time I will post some photos of that as well.
With such a small workshop space is at a premium and the way I have set up the saw/router table is probably about the only way I could fit them both in and still have room to stir my tea!

Martin.

 

[woodbloke]

Very interesting Martin and one that has distinct possibilities for the future :wink: as I'm thinking about re-locating my router/table and replacing the K419 as discussed this morning - Rob

 

[wizer]

yes I think that setup looks really good Martin. I don't think it would work for me in my current setup but worth thinking about for the future. The idea of using the sliding table of the TS for the RT is simple, but clever. My immediate though when seeing your pics was the restricted rip width. But I can sympathise with you reasons and actually can't think of too many instances when you need the wider rip capacity.

 

[Martingchapman]

Thanks Tom, appreciate the comments.
The restricted rip width has not proved a problem so far because for anything wider than about 350mm I use the Festool TS55 and guide rail.
If I am honest I prefer using the TS55 as it is safe and very easy, but not practical for ripping anything narrower than the width of the guide rail (I know some people say you can do this but I am not comfortable with it).
With the TS55 you have to mark a line where you want the cut to be, then set the guide rail in place, which is one extra step so it is not as quick as using the TS200 but the additional time is marginal (I don't do this for a living so time, whilst precious, is not money).
In my situation this set up works fine, narrow rips on the TS200, wider rips use the TS55, however if I had the space I have to admit I would probably do it all on the TS200, in which case I would have gone for the side extension table to give a wider ripping capacity.

Martin.