Record No. 5 for £1!!

[Carl P]

Just thought I'd share this carboot 'gem', cost me one pound, I bought it because I thought it an ideal candidate for trying out derusting with a battery charger, all I need now is a charger - doh!

Miraculously all screws were free, so I'm hoping it will come up well, any restoration tips you may have would be greatly appreciated,

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

That is not as bad as might first appear. Shame about the Stanley lever cap, though.

Mike

 

[thick_mike]

Here is what i learned from my experimentation with the technique:

Use mild steel for the anode (+), not stainless steel. Stainless steel releases chromium ions into the water which are carcinogenic.

Throw some bicarb into the water for the electrolyte.

Warm water works better than cold.

Clean a spot on the rusty tool so that you get a good electrical contact with the electric supply.

The larger the surface area on the anode and the closer it is to the rusty tool (without touching it), the quicker it will de-rust.

When it comes out of the bath, you will probably still need to clean the surface with some abrasive (scotch brite or similar) it won't be shiny straight from the bath. Also, get some oil on the surface ASAP. The new surface is very prone to flash rusting.

 

[G S Haydon]

Sharpen the blade and your good to go

Tips, elbow grease.

 

[woodbrains]

But you can be too sharp!

Mike.

 

[marcros]

you may need to put a battery in the system. My charger has some form of protection to stop it shorting out, and so wont work on its own for electrolysis- it was just a "normal" one from wilco motosave IIRC. I am yet to try it, but I think that if you connect battery to chareger and them onto the annode/cathode it will be ok, but research it first rather than take my word.

 

[bugbear]

Just thought I'd share this carboot 'gem', cost me one pound, I bought it because I thought it an ideal candidate for trying out derusting with a battery charger, all I need now is a charger - doh!

Miraculously all screws were free, so I'm hoping it will come up well, any restoration tips you may have would be greatly appreciated,

Cheerio,

Carl

Sad. Apart from the rust, that was in good condition!

BugBear

 

[thick_mike]

you may need to put a battery in the system. My charger has some form of protection to stop it shorting out, and so wont work on its own for electrolysis- it was just a "normal" one from wilco motosave IIRC. I am yet to try it, but I think that if you connect battery to chareger and them onto the annode/cathode it will be ok, but research it first rather than take my word.

I used one of the (very many) phone chargers I have in a dusty drawer. I just cut the jack plug off and exposed the wires. It worked great for small things like planes...not sure you could do a v8 engine block with it though!

 

[Carl P]

Thanks for all the assorted comments -

Woodbrains - yes it is a shame about the lever cap, I like to pretend that I'm not bothered about such things that just add 'character', but I've found myself looking on ebay for a record one, despite the fact that it would rather negate the 'plane for a pound' and bring it much closer to 'why didn't I just pay normal price and not waste so much time'!

Thick_mike - thanks for the advice - I'd not thought of a phone charger, I'm sure we have a few kicking about somewhere, I'll give it a go.

GS - is that some sort of special grease extracted from crooked oak branches? Or could it be I have to put some effort into it? No derusting app yet - damn!!

Bugbear - alas the same can be said for me - shame, if it wasn't for the excess weight and years of neglect that body would be in good condition!


Cheerio,

Carl

 

[toolmaniac]

I de-rust all the time using a battery charger.
I use old files suspended from a wooden rack as the anode.
I find the best technique is to do all of the above (omitting the battery), but let it work slowly. My 4 amp charger starts off at about 2 amps, then tails off to half an amp. That's plenty.
Usually, I leave things in overnight, and sometimes for a couple of days. While they're underwater they are fine, but when you've removed them you will find a black deposit on everything. It wipes off easily with a paraffin rag. Spray with WD40 to prevent re-rusting.
And remove the handles first!.

 

[vankou]

Hi,

If you have not yet obtained one I have a Record lever cap for your no. 5 plane which you are welcome to no charge. PM me your address and I will forward it on

Paul.

 

[Carl P]

Thanks again for the helpful replies,

Toolmaniac - I've previously used citric acid, but I'm increasingly unhappy with it because of the damage it does to the non-corroded steel (put a bunch of moulding plane irons in once, one got left behind by mistake for a month - now totally useless!), have you noticed any similar effects with this method?

vankou - thanks for your very generous offer, I will take you up on it, if only because I will then be morally obliged to make sure it's a good job!

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[woodbrains]

you may need to put a battery in the system. My charger has some form of protection to stop it shorting out, and so wont work on its own for electrolysis- it was just a "normal" one from wilco motosave IIRC. I am yet to try it, but I think that if you connect battery to chareger and them onto the annode/cathode it will be ok, but research it first rather than take my word.

Put a light bulb in series in the circuit, you need some resistance.

Mike.

 

[Mr_P]

Toolmaniac - I've previously used citric acid, but I'm increasingly unhappy with it because of the damage it does to the non-corroded steel (put a bunch of moulding plane irons in once, one got left behind by mistake for a month - now totally useless!), have you noticed any similar effects with this method?

Isn't the same true with the car battery method, leave it in too long and it will dissolve into goo ?

 

[thick_mike]

Toolmaniac - I've previously used citric acid, but I'm increasingly unhappy with it because of the damage it does to the non-corroded steel (put a bunch of moulding plane irons in once, one got left behind by mistake for a month - now totally useless!), have you noticed any similar effects with this method?

Isn't the same true with the car battery method, leave it in too long and it will dissolve into goo ?

...and abrasives. Rub too long and the tool disappears!

 

[Carl P]

Hi,

If you have not yet obtained one I have a Record lever cap for your no. 5 plane which you are welcome to no charge. PM me your address and I will forward it on

Paul.

Safely received - and more besides! I've pmed you, but thank you very much, extremely generous of you,

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[monkeybiter]

So when you've cleaned it up will it appear in 'for sale' for 100% profit? I've got my £2.00 ready....

 

[vankou]

PM returned, you are more than welcome.

 

[wallace]

Apparently you can leave cast iron in the tank and it will be fine for any length of time but if you leave steel for too long it gets eaten. Stainless makes toxic stuff.
Mark

 

[wizard]

I bought a record T5 last year they wanted £2.00 but beat them down to a £1.00