RAS use woe

[wallace]

Hi all, I have an old dewalt RAS and am haveing a problem when I use it. When I try to cross cut some wood of say 2" the saw try's to climb through the wood and I find it very difficult to stop it running away and then tripping out. I found an article in an old woodworker magazine from the 70's. In it says that it is normal and just takes practice to prevent it. Can anyone give me some advice.
thanks Mark

 

[liam8223]

Sounds like a blunt blade maybe?

My inlaw came to use my wadkin BRA radial arm, and he just wasn't strong enough to
control the force of the saw.

But my machine is a big brute, so doubt its your strength with yours?

Is the turret bolted securely to the base/bench?
is there any play in the rise and fall?

My dewalt was a workhorse, and I never had a bother wih it, so cant really offer any other input.

Liam.

 

[mailee]

Mine has a return spring on the carriage which helps. But you have got to be very gentle when pulling the blade through the wood. As has been stated it could be a blunt blade. HTH. :wink:

 

[studders]

Arbor bearings not tight enough is another cause.

 

[srp]

Make sure you've got the right sort of blade fitted. Might be worth speaking to Doug at www.cutting-solutions.co.uk to ask his advice on a blade specifically designed for a RAS, possibly negative rake angle and definitely a cross-cut rather than a ripping blade.
If you've done all that, try pulling it with a straight arm (not bent at the elbow) and moving your shoulder back. Clamping the work against the fence also helps as you're then not restricted so much.

 

[kirkpoore1]

Two things will contribute to this. First, as Liam said, a dull blade will climb cut more. Second, as srp beat me to it, a blade with a negative hook made specifically for RAS's and miter saws will climb cut much less than a regular tablesaw-type blade.

Kirk

 

[Benchwayze]

I presume you would notice very quickly if you put the blade on backwards?

DAMHIKT! (Joking!!!)
:mrgreen:

 

[wallace]

Thanks for all the advice chaps
mark

 

[wallace]

Hi all, heres a pic of the blade thats on the saw. Its still quite sharp but I did notice a toothe missing. I know nothing about blades, is this suitable for the ras.

Heres a little clip of me cutting a piece of oak block worktop, as you can see it is fine at first and then it starts to ride through the wood.
thanks

http://youtu.be/qXXq4G7b1rU

 

[doorframe]

My guess is blunt blade. It may feel sharp when you run your finger over it but I suspect a nice new one will make a big difference.

Roy

 

[SammyQ]

Blunt. You can tell by the sound it's making. Sam

 

[Benchwayze]

5/8 bore... I hope you can get a 5/8 bore, and avoid reducing washers. I think Wealden tools do a 5/8 bore selection.

http://www.wealdentool.com/

5/8 bore on this page:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Onl ... e_294.html

If you can't get one, to suit, I think you should be able to get the blade you have, doctored, good as new.

HTH

John

 

[srp]

Your blades knacked and the rake angle is wrong. The Wealden blades are expensive. Go to www.cutting-solutions.co.uk - better stil ring them, tell them what you cut most of and they'll recommend the right no of teeth etc.

 

[andersonec]

These people will cut your size bore for you http://www.atkinson-walker-saws.co.uk/home_page.html Got a blade off them once and sent it back after a year as it had developed a slight wobble, sorted it out free of charge. They will speak to you and offer advice.

Andy

 

[studders]

And take those Gloves off you naughty boy.

 

[wallace]

Thanks all for the great advice
Studders I know I shouldn't wear gloves but I have quite bad vibration white finger and if I dont wear gloves I cant stay in the workshop
Mark

 

[studders]

Ah right. Maself I suffer from cold hands, even indoors, so I do sometimes wear gloves in the w'shop and even forget sometimes to take them off to use a spinny thing.