Raised Panel Cutters For House Doors Interior and Exterior


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Established Member
19 Apr 2009
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An Ebay seller has these Whitehill raised panel cutters available 283554300816.
I asked the seller if they would be suitable for house doors ,not for smaller type cabinet doors.
He came back with, " They'll produce a fielded panel in any timber. The size is shown on the listing.
If the room doors have 2 panels across their width then these will look ok, if only 1 panel then they'll look too small. "

If these cutters aren't a deep enough profile, how do I go about getting a more chunky look? Something along the lines of ,

http://www.idostuff.co.uk/sections/DIY/ ... anels.html
Have you got a Whitehill raised panel block? These cutters won't fit in a standard Euro block if that's what you're thinking. They're also over cutters which aren't ideal for hand-feeding and they also tend to take bites out of the material if it raises off the table slightly, I much prefer undercutting knives.


They should look fine on a standard size door if you're either doing it one large panel or two divided panels, take the dimensions of your panel opening, take away 72mm (36mm for each side of the panel) and that's what will be left of your fielded panel.
I've got a 140mm Whitehill panel raising plus a set of knives and limiters, got at a good price on Ebay.
" They're also over cutters which aren't ideal for hand-feeding, " Yes I'm aware of the safety aspect of this. That said I think I could use the power feed so that should avoid any risk?
I bought two sets the third had gone. I asked the seller about using the power feed.
He replied, " Because they're over cutters the tongue they create is consistent and fits the groove properly. Also the panel doesn't dip at the end when being machined which always happens with under cutters.
It's always best to machine fielded panels with a power feed and over cutters, far superior than any other method. "
I prefer to cut from the top face when making a single sided raised panel, it gives an accurate tongue as suggested.
The illustrations you have from idostuff are seriously flawed in showing the panel secured only by the bollection and panel moulds. Only an silly person wou fail to put the panels in a groove. It's vitally important to allow space for the panels to expand in the grooves with changes in moisture content. The power of the expanding panels is huge.
Mike Jordan":ptn7rg8y said:
The illustrations you have from idostuff are seriously flawed in showing the panel secured only by the bollection and panel moulds. Only an silly person wou fail to put the panels in a groove.

The doors with the worst and fastest rot I've seen have always been doors with panels that sit in a groove, grooves don't allow water to egress so the water will just sit in the grooves and work its way into the tenons. Most of the time my panels will sit in a rebate with about 3mm clearance all around, siliconed in place and will be beaded in from the outside, If water does get in it will egress under the beads rather than just stay in the door.

Alternatively, on a historic door with bolection and panel moulds I will run a 10x10mm groove around the middle of the panel space. This allows me to nail some 10mm x 30mm square stock (my panels tend to be a hair less than 10mm on the thinnest point) into the grooves which stick out 20mm from the groove creating a rebate for either side of the door. The bolection moulds are rebated so that they rest on the face of the door and onto the square stock that has been placed into the door and stick about 10mm or more past the square stock creating a rebate for the panel to sit against, I then mitre, glue and nail the internal beads into place. Once the glue has dried I silicone the panel (Which is a hair thinner than the thickness of the 10mm square stock to allow it to move freely) into the rebate now made by the beading and nail the external beads on identically to the internal side. This allows the panel to float freely whilst allowing you to use the large mouldings without directly mounting them to the panel which restricts the float. Water will eventually get in over time but it will flow out under the beads, doors done this way will last far longer than groove paneled doors.
Mike- " allow space for the panels to expand "Thanks I was aware of that.
Trevanion - Interesting approach, sounds much more durable, any photos of doors you have done like this?