question about dw125 RAS

[kirkpoore1]

These are the answers I usually get.......and yet I remain confused.

I have a sliding mitre saw which I use for cross cutting. It has stops...clamps to hold against the fence and surface and will cut pretty wide panels and all feasible lengths/depths of stock. The only thing it won't cut is panels wider than the reach...but I use the tablesaw for that anyway.

So...again...my question is, why use an inherently dangerous piece of gear that is known to be lethal if not used correctly as opposed to a fairly safe sliding mitre...which at least chucks chips out of the back?

I take all the points about safe practice...but surely that applies to ALL powertools?

Jim

Lethal? No. Dangerous? If, as I said, not used with caution.

Rigidity, durability, ability to tune it up if it isn't quite right. (Though the latter may be possible on better CMS/SCMS, I don't know.) I'm not sure what you mean about the chips, since mine sends them out the back and into the dust chute I've added. It's got an induction motor, vs the universal motor found on many (most? all?) CMS/SCMS. I think some SCMS can be set to cut only partway through a board, but I've never seen one. I do tenon shoulders and dadoes frequently on my RAS. I also think it's reasonable to say that most RAS's will crosscut more than CMS's and most SCMS's. That may not be a big consideration for most people, but I do use mine to cut sycamore 2x16's to length fairly frequently (it will do a 22" crosscut, but it's a relatively rare long-arm version.) If I need to break down sheet goods, I go to my circular saw with a clamped on fence.

A compound miter saw is certainly more portable and will do what's needed as a jobsite saw. And they will do just as well for many simple cuts, at least for a while. A good CMS will cost as much as a cheap RAS, so if that's all you need get the CMS. But if you need more, a good RAS will do more. I've used CMS's some, but I like the RAS much more.

Kirk

 

[urbanarcher]

Well I'll be looking to cut oak ash and maybe some idigbo well that's the plan. Hope that helps with the blade advice. I wont be ripping on it as i have a startrite TS for that kind of thing.
I bought this as i have been doing all my cross cuts by hand for the longer lengths and truing them up on the table saw that meant measuring twice and cutting twice and everyone keeps telling me to measure twice and cut once! . Choices were
*buy a mitre saw
*buy another hand saw (the other hard point is getting blunt)
*buy a radial arm saw

Well you know what i did. and i did it for a quiet life (induction) and because i like old solid machines.
Now i just hope all my fingers survive after all the comments here I'm just planning on marking an area on the new table with a colour 150mm each side of the blade and keep my hands out of that zone!! oh and also remain cautious of that wirly bit!

Ryan

 

[Streepips]

Urbanarcher, you will be fine. The RAS only has a bad reputation amongst the unlearned and those lacking in a natural affinity with machinery.
A bevel mitre saw may do the same job, but to me always feels a tiny bit like cheating, using it instead of using a handsaw, which with practice will suffice for most cuts. Cheaper to buy and safer to use.....Does that make a handsaw better though? It does according to the criteria some apply here.
Whereas a RAS, well that feels substantial..... Fixed. Like you have just moved the workshop up a gear..( You know its not really when you have used 3 phase larger machinery) and is a machine with a dedicated place in the workshop unlike portable power tools, it has its place and its task and it will behave itself perfectly as long as you maintain it and respect it. Its a two way thing.
More people get hurt opening tins than with operating a RAS.

 

[jimi43]

A good handsaw in the right hands is infinitely better for the soul than a mitre saw....but that will get us into a machine tool/hand tool debate which rages far too often in these circles.

I have now concluded that, given the correct understanding/training/reading the handbook, a RAS is inherently no more dangerous than any other power tool, throws debris out of the back and not the front and commands much love and affection from those who have one.

I would however questions accident statistics like that...I would think that there are a hell of a lot more people who open tins every year than use RASs.....and I would think that the level of injury was a tad higher with a RAS than a tin opener...

Of course...I have no idea what sort of tin opener RAS fans use...I could be wrong! :mrgreen: :wink:

Jim

 

[studders]

Of course...I have no idea what sort of tin opener RAS fans use...

Jim

I'm pretty sure it says in the Manual that the RAS does that too, I may have misread it though. :?

 

[jimi43]

Of course...I have no idea what sort of tin opener RAS fans use...

Jim

I'm pretty sure it says in the Manual that the RAS does that too, I may have misread it though. :?

AH! That's why the "opening tins" accident statistics are so skewed! I knew there must be a reason! :mrgreen: :wink:

I believe the DW57 does that!

(deep...Jimi...deep!...and a tad sad! )

Jim

 

[powertools]

If it does I think you may need the full guard for that.

 

[studders]

Just the splash guard and a saucepan apparently.

And it's the DWH57V Jimi. (Deeper and sadder)

 

[kirkpoore1]

Splash guard and sauce pan are in the third row.

I think you use the saber saw attachment with a metal cutting blade for opening cans.

Kirk

 

[studders]

I think you use the saber saw attachment with a metal cutting blade for opening cans.

Kirk

Noooooo, that's for slicing the Bread. Tsk! I thought everybod knew that.

 

[bosshogg]

I think you use the saber saw attachment with a metal cutting blade for opening cans.

Kirk

Noooooo, that's for slicing the Bread. Tsk! I thought everybod knew that.

(homer) Doh...obviously a sabre saw is for cutting the bones of big scary tigers for the soup pot...silly's...or as we call them in Scotland Wee, sleekit, cowrin, tim'rous beasties. R.B./i]...bosshogg :wink:

There is nothing better than real, authentic, Scottish haggis, served traditionally with "neeps n tatties" (hammer)

 

[No skills]

Has anybody got a high res copy of that dewalt advert?? would make a great t shirt

 

[powertools]

Iv'e got to tell you that in the book that came with mine in the saftey advice it states and I quote-
Keep your tie tucked in,or do not wear one at all !
How things have changed over the last 30 years.
I am wondering how the op has got on with his machine

 

[kirkpoore1]

Has anybody got a high res copy of that dewalt advert?? would make a great t shirt

It's the last page of this PDF:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/detail.aspx?id=2924
3.5 MB download, so it's not too big. Lots of scary stuff--shaper cutterheads, etc. Maybe even some guys wearing ties.. Perfect for Halloween.

Kirk

 

[No skills]

Thats so cool! thanks kirk

I do like 'saucer cut' on page 6, seems particularly dangerous

 

[urbanarcher]

Keep your tie tucked in,or do not wear one at all !

Do not wear one at all preposterous I've taken to wearing my dickey bow it catches less on the machinery!

well I've had the people changing the bathroom past couple of days so haven't had a chance to use it much. The blade is as sharp a toffee hammer to I'm going pick one up on the way round today i have two blades in mind they are
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...k-circular-saw-blade/path/circular-saw-blades
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/p...aftpro-saw-blade-250/path/circular-saw-blades

any opinions on these ??
any other suggestions?

 

[studders]

Can't really see any indepth specs for those blades, so difficult to say to be honest.

 

[urbanarcher]

ah yes here is the tech links for them
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produ...craft_saw_blade_250mm_x_60_teeth_x_30mm_.html
http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produ...ium_and_plastic_250mm_x_84_teeth_x_30mm_.html.

hope it helps

 

[studders]

They'll do the job but be aware they will tend to make the head 'climb' toward you so keep a stiff arm when cutting. Ideally you want a negative tooth angle to reduce that happening. Personally I prefer the Freud Brand to Trend.

 

[jimi43]

They'll do the job but be aware they will tend to make the head 'climb' toward you so keep a stiff arm when cutting. Ideally you want a negative tooth angle to reduce that happening. Personally I prefer the Freud Brand to Trend.

I think I will stick to tin openers and take the risk... :mrgreen:

Jim