Project Advice - sliding dovetails

[eoinsgaff]

I wish to build cabinets for my tools over the coming months. I want to use sliding dovetails and i intend to make them with hand tools. How should I approach this?

I was considering a hand saw and router plane. However, is it possible to make fine adjustments this way?

I was also going to use a forgiving wood and popular is the current option.

All advice is welcome

Eoin

 

[Benchwayze]

I wish to build cabinets for my tools over the coming months. I want to use sliding dovetails and i intend to make them with hand tools. How should I approach this?

I was considering a hand saw and router plane. However, is it possible to make fine adjustments this way?

I was also going to use a forgiving wood and popular is the current option.

All advice is welcome

Eoin

Try this one Eoin:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ ... hand1.html

PS.. When you come to use your hand-router it's advantageous to have the double-bevelled cutter too. Makes it easier to get right into the corner of the dovetail housing. (That's the cutter with the triangular, pointed bevels.)

HIH

John

 

[Alf]

Derek (as many others) takes the modern router-users approach - but in days of yore, they tended to just slope one side. For the best work it'd also be stopped, so you wouldn't see the dovetail at all, and tapered so it pulled tight as you drove it flush. How complicated d'you want to get? Either way, unless you're a sawing and chiselling genius, this is definitely one of those times that side rebate plane owners speak of - when a side rebate plane really comes into its own. I notice Derek uses an angled block, but an alternative that the Stanley #79 in particular lends itself to, is making a simple replacement fence at the desired angle.

Another alternative is to do a short section of dovetailed housing on the show face and make the rest a regular housing (Assuming that it's the look you want as much as the strength?). That's easier to cut and trim with a chisel - essentially a deep dovetail socket. Just a thought.

 

[eoinsgaff]

Hmmm, because its a project for 'me' I want to push the boat out a little to help develop my craft.

I guess a dovetail on one side would be well worth considering as it would allow me to use a shoulder plane on the other side of the tail to make a fine fit adjustment. This would remove the need to fine tune the dovetail side. I'm not sure it would look as good.

Fine woodworking has a few articles on this topic. I found one that discusses the tapered option you mentioned Alf. With a guide block as per Derek (thanks John) it might well be achievable.

I'll be interested to hear more comments on the subject.

I wonder if popular a good option?

Regards

Eoin

 

[Racers]

Hi, Eoin

Sounds like the perfect excuse to buy a Stanley 444, if you can find and afford one :wink:

http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan14.htm#num444


Pete

 

[Jacob]

If you do a dovetail housing joint on one side only - do it on the top side of the shelf. For a loaded shelf one DT is stronger than two (more wood left behind) but having it on the underside is structurally weak.

 

[Benchwayze]

Hmmm, because its a project for 'me' I want to push the boat out a little to help develop my craft.


I wonder if popular a good option?

Regards

Eoin

Eoin,

Poplar is an easy timber to work, if you can get stuff that isn't too 'wooly'.

The American 'Tulip-wood' seems OK and that I believe is a species of Poplar. I have some British Poplar I've had for years and it might make some decent workshop furniture. But I do know my planks are a bit 'wooly' in the grain.

I think you would be better off to 'sharpen' your skills on one of the cheaper hardwoods, or the denser softwoods like Douglas Fir. You don't need me to tell you about ultra sharp tools but it is especially important for some of the soft woods.

If you can get some old Parana Pine, you'll have nice timber to work, albeit on the soft side. The results can look spectacular too with the lovely grain effects you often get.

Best of Luck

John