Problem with planing

[lukeuk]

I'm trying to plane a reclaimed white oak and I'm coming across 2 major problems:

1) sometimes when I'm making a pass the plane gets stuck. It looks like it takes more material than it suppose to. If I continue pushing with more force i will damage the surface. How to avoid it and what to do when that happens?

2) creating a smooth surface seams to be random. Some areas look nice while the other have lots of small irregular holes 2-3mm deep. It looks really bad and I couldn't use this surface as a table top. I'm wondering is that my fault or there is something wrong with the timber (or both). The timber looks dry on the surface but when I cut it with a circular saw the waste has a dark brown colour. Perhaps it's not dry enough although if that's a reclaimed timber shouldn't it be dry before the first use?

Thank you

 

[Grayo]

Are you trying to plane the end grain or against the grain ??? It sounds like you are planing against the grain so try planing in the opposite direction ???.

 

[lukeuk]

Very good question but I have no idea how to identify the direction of grain for those boards. I checked both direction with similar results ;-)

 

[Grayo]

The browning could be the result of a hot blade and burning the wood as it goes through. Is the blade on your plane sharp ??? a blunt blade will produce similar results. You sometimes get this result in wood with a swirling grain by this I mean the grain can go both ways.

 

[Ian down london way]

How much do you think you are taking off? What's the power of the plainer (and its width). Maybe its struggling with what is a very hard wood.

 

[Mr T]

Hi Luke

I assume you are hand planing the oak. I wonder if the blade is sharp enough and the chip breaker set correctly. Old Oak can be a bit "brassy". Requiring a sharp, finely set plane.

If you are machine planing pleas ignore the above.

Chris

 

[Mickfb]

If planing by hand try using a block plane with the throat closed up more than usual and go across the grain where the grain keeps changing.

 

[lukeuk]

I'm using hand plane No.5. It's sharp but not super sharp (I sharpened it with a £10 chisel sharpening system). The plan is set to take as little as possible (maybe half of a millimeter).

The other strange thing is that the wood is getting dirt black in certain areas.

Please see pictures below.

 

[Mickfb]

That is the oak reacting with the metal of your plane. This usually happens if the oak is damp or water comes in contact between the oak and your plane.

 

[Grayo]

Hi Luke,

Have you tried using a scraper like a piece of glass or metal blade ???

 

[Mr T]

Looks like a sharpness and setting problem. As Mick says the black is the oak reacting with the steel of the plane. I would also agree that planing across the grain may help then clean up with a scraper. Alternatively you could give it a good sorting with a belt sander!

 

[lukeuk]

Thank you for you help. I read all the comments and after some thinking and adjusting my equipment ;-) I realised it was an incorrect planing direction and plane setting.

I must admit that learning this particular skill is a very frustrating process.

ps. to achieve a perfect flatness should I invest in belt or orbital sander (or perhaps something else)?

 

[bugbear]

Thank you for you help. I read all the comments and after some thinking and adjusting my equipment ;-) I released it was an incorrect planing direction and plane setting.

I must admit that learning this particular skill is a very frustrating process.

ps. to achieve a perfect flatness should I invest in belt or orbital sander (or perhaps something else)?

Nope, a plane is the right tool, but using one is not completely obvious.

I would suggest learning on something easier (and cheaper) than oak.

You probably need a bit more information that anyone is going to be able to cram into
a forum post. I would recommend a book and/or video (unless you're lucky enough to get
a local to you forum-ite offer one-on-one tuition)

I like this one - http://lostartpress.com/products/the-es ... woodworker

Other planing instruction is available

BugBear

 

[Tierney]

Hi,

David Charlesworth also does some excellent books which describe how to set up a plane, the theory behind how to get good results, and how to flatten a board.

half a millimetre is a thick shaving maybe only appropriate to rough sawn wood. For the final passes of the plane you should be aiming for one tenth of that thickness, maybe even one twentieth.

You will get a better finish if you take a little off at a time, if you watch videos of craftspeople planing boards you will be surprised at how quick they go.

It takes a bit of practice; but, is rewarding!

Regards,

DT

 

[rafezetter]

I would echo all the above and add invest in a better sharpening system - it doesn't have to be a lot - I just bought some sheets of 600, 1200 2500 and 4000 grit wet and dry paper and used the scary sharpening method with a guide (shush you lot) and now my bog standard planes; old stanley bailey's as oppose to lie neilson or even quenshangs, cut like a dream now - blade is shiny as a razor and shaves hairs off my arm just as good. While you may be getting shavings with your current system, going the same route as above will get you better, easier results.

You'll also get extra benefit from adding a SMALL amount of paste wax or similar to the plane sole, which I tried for the first time only this w/e and my does it help! my plane now practically runs away from me when pushing and the shavings are wafer thin - which is far more satisfying than trying to take lots at once.

Don't be disheartened at getting results like this after only a short while using hand planes, I've been using them fairly regularly for a few months now and only recently really getting to a point I can replicate good results every time.

 

[Benchwayze]

Luke,

In general, oak is pretty well-behaved for grain direction. To decide which way the grain runs, you need to envisage the fibres overlaying one another, in a similar way to the hairs on a dog's coat. (Some pesky timbers have stripes like a Rhodesian Ridgeback mind!) To find out which way to plane, look at the adjacent face of the timber, and you can usually see which way the fibres are laid. You know which way to stroke a dog, and it's the same way to plane!

I know some dogs like a bit of stroking 'against the grain', but timber doesn't. :wink:

HTH

 

[bugbear]

I just bought some ... 4000 grit wet and dry paper...

Where did you get 4000 ?!

BugBear

 

[lukeuk]

After reading your comments and watching "Rough to ready" by Rob Cosman I'm terrified how many mistakes I made ;-) Apart from the technique even my plane wasn't sharp enough... I need to get a proper sharpening stone first before I will damage more wood.

 

[rafezetter]

After reading your comments and watching "Rough to ready" by Rob Cosman I'm terrified how many mistakes I made ;-) Apart from the technique even my plane wasn't sharp enough... I need to get a proper sharpening stone first before I will damage more wood.

That's just it, you DON'T need to get a fancy diamond stone or japanese oilstone - I found the scary sharpening method (using wet and dry or other sheet abrasive like Workshop heavens professional lapping papers depending on your budget) are more than you need, at least while you get started. if you want to go the oilstone / diamond plate set later that's up to you, but sheets of 1200 > 4000 grit are easily available on ebay in multipacks for less than £5 usually, and cut into 2" strips will last you a while.

@bugbear as I said above - I buy them from ebay in small mixed packs - 1500 > 2500 sets and 2000 > 4000 sets from only a few quid each set.

after the 4000 grit I hone on..wait for it... heavy grade paper first, like lining paper, then again on normal printer paper. Might sound odd, but I have used these in the past to polish flat items of jewellery to mirror shine without having to clean gunk off after.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370964116399?_trksid=p2055120.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

[lukeuk]

Thank you Rafezetter. I will give it a go. I actually own some sand paper with such a high grit.