Posh planing board and shooting boards

[woodbloke]

care to expand?

Tom - making and adjustable long mitre shoot to do something like an octagon means that you then have to get 16 angles (and 8 lengths) absolutely bang on, so that even a tiny discrepancy in a shot angle or length then gets multiplied by a factor of 16 (if my thinking's correct :? ) when you try and pull the frame together.
Dod's probably got the right idea when he suggests that there could be some adjustment on the angle by means of a cunning screw arrangement...and yes, Pete's mitre shoot is adjustable in all planes (but not necessary as it's accurate to start with) - Rob

 

[wizer]

Sorry Dod, missed your reply.

So I assume these adjustment is via screw on the underside of the DE. What sort of screws are they? Photo?

 

[woodbloke]

Sorry Dod, missed your reply.

So I assume these adjustment is via screw on the underside of the DE. What sort of screws are they? Photo?

Pete said that they're simply a brass flat headed bolt going into a circular nut arrangement. Pete got a pocketful of them just before he retired...they were being used to hold document folders together and Pete got hold of them before the girl in the Registry binned them! - Rob

 

[newt]

 

[Steve Maskery]

Pete
That's a good example of adapting a standard shooting board to do wide mitres. But. What's the overall length please? It looks rather short to me for shooting. I'm not having a go at you, I've recently made a new mitre shooting-board myself ( for long ones rather than wide ones) and I think I've made that too short too.

S

 

[newt]

Steve , the overall length of the runway is 350mm, the runway length to the fence on the 45 degree piece is 250mm, the length of the 45 degree slope is 215mm and the width of the 45 degree slope is 120 mm. I made this for boxes with sides about 150mm high. I use the veritas LA jack which has a nice long front sole.

 

[miles_hot]

fogive the utter ignorance but I've never really understood the whole shooting board idea... why doesn't the surface that the blade is running along get planned the first time (and every time) that it is used? I would ahve thought that this would then lead to progressive errors...

Help!

Thanks

miles

 

[Steve Maskery]

Miles
It does get planed the first time you use it but it stops getting planed when the sole of the plane reaches it. Have a look at your plane. The blade doesn't go right to the edge does it? That few millimetres of body is what stops the blade eating into the base, it can cut only as far as the projection of the blade, no more.

Newt
I forgot to thank you for the info - much appreciated.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Harbo]

Wizer - they are not difficult to make and quite easy to tweak to get the required accuracy. Make one before you get rid of your saw - the Jet should cut it accurate enough?

Here's a couple I have made out of odd scraps of stuff:

The only slight problem with the Newt design is that the thickness of the wood making the jig limits the cutting thickness - great for thin boards though.

Rod

 

[newt]

Harbo, I have shot 18mm Oak and to be honest I would not want to try any thicker, the effort was quite considerable.

 

[Harbo]

Newt - yes I would think so especially in oak - I might have been tempted to take most of it off with my bandsaw and then trim if off with the plane?

Rod

 

[woodbloke]

As Steve M has rightly said, part of the board gets planed away the first time it's used, thereafter it ought not to be cut by the blade...provided that the side of the plane is kept dead flat on the runway. There's always the danger of the dreaded 'tip' syndrome when pressure is not directed vertically but at somewhat of an angle. If a dedicated shooting board plane is used (such as the LN No9) then this becomes far less of a problem as there's a much larger bearing surface on the runway. Standard bench planes can be used perfectly well, they just need a little more care in how they're used - Rob