Planer Jig For Window And Door Cill

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pollys13

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I have a Metabo HC260C planer thicknesser. I'd be grateful for any design ideas to make a jig for this that would be suitable for cutting the 9 degree angle on door and window cills and any how to help.
Cheers guys.
 
Hi Polly
That's easy. Forget the planer, this is a job for the thicknesser.

You make a sled with two battens underneath, so that it fits inside your thicknesser, ver the bed, but can't get pulled through. That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. One side of the sled is built up with a strip of wood so that your cill sits in this cradle canted up by 9 degress.

Pass your wood through it until you have the width of slope that you want.

Then put a tenner in the post and send it to...
 
Steve Maskery":2z223i34 said:
Hi Polly
That's easy. Forget the planer, this is a job for the thicknesser.

You make a sled with two battens underneath, so that it fits inside your thicknesser, ver the bed, but can't get pulled through. That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. One side of the sled is built up with a strip of wood so that your cill sits in this cradle canted up by 9 degress.

Pass your wood through it until you have the width of slope that you want.

Then put a tenner in the post and send it to...
I think I can see where the business model went wrong :?
 
P1000722.JPG

With luck this is a pic of a jig i use to make beading with the thickness planer. it uses the same method that Steve outlined but is obviously smaller. I dont make windows any more so its larger brother has gone to the woodburner.
 

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Beau":2lgqs5d0 said:
Should be able to make out my jig in the picture in this thread vari-angle-cutter-head-making-flush-casement-windows-t101941.html
I saw that before but the construction is not that clear. In photo 1 red letter A holding in position at end of bed.
In photo 2 letter B piece of batten holding in position at other end of bed.
In photo A red arrow small square length to raise angle up to 9 degrees.

In photo 2 I'm afraid you've lost me,I don't follow what you've done there, how would the work piece be held securely?
Cheers.
 

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Steve Maskery":sf123yge said:
Hi Polly
That's easy. Forget the planer, this is a job for the thicknesser.

You make a sled with two battens underneath, so that it fits inside your thicknesser, ver the bed, but can't get pulled through. That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. One side of the sled is built up with a strip of wood so that your cill sits in this cradle canted up by 9 degress.

Pass your wood through it until you have the width of slope that you want.

Then put a tenner in the post and send it to...

That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. You mean two strips of wood holding it nice and tight in position. If I used this method or if I can safely use the tablesaw approach. Would I cut the 9 degree angle right accross the cill and then cut the rebate or does it not work like that?
Cheers, Steve.
 
Mike Jordan":1yiitdpb said:

With luck this is a pic of a jig i use to make beading with the thickness planer. it uses the same method that Steve outlined but is obviously smaller. I dont make windows any more so its larger brother has gone to the woodburner.
OK thanks.
 
pollys13":1dmy3a5v said:
Steve Maskery":1dmy3a5v said:
Hi Polly
That's easy. Forget the planer, this is a job for the thicknesser.

You make a sled with two battens underneath, so that it fits inside your thicknesser, ver the bed, but can't get pulled through. That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. One side of the sled is built up with a strip of wood so that your cill sits in this cradle canted up by 9 degress.

Pass your wood through it until you have the width of slope that you want.

Then put a tenner in the post and send it to...

That sled has sides to accommodate your cill, so that it doesn't slide about, left right, like a cradle. You mean two strips of wood holding it nice and tight in position. If I used this method or if I can safely use the tablesaw approach. Would I cut the 9 degree angle right accross the cill and then cut the rebate or does it not work like that?
Cheers, Steve.
If you could provide a sketch of the section you are aiming to achieve we can offer better advice.
 
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