Petrol chainsaw advice

[duncanh]

I've been using a Bosch electric chainsaw for the last few years and it's coped pretty well with what I've used it for. It struggled a little when ripping along the length of logs (ie. with the log led flat and the chain running along it's longest length). I was using it yesterday and had been going for about an 30 minutes (including stops to reposition logs) when the motor cut out just after I pressed the trigger. It started for about a second and then just stopped.
The fuse is ok, the plug socket is ok, there was no smell of burning from the motor, the chain is well oiled and I can see nothing wrong with the machine. Unfortunately it's out of guarantee so I either try to get it fixed or invest in a new one.
A petrol one would be useful on the odd occasion that I need one but most of the time the saw sits in storage. I know you can now get fuel that apparently lasts for year in the machine or in the can. The only downsides I can see of petrol are the cost (my electric was 1900W and an equivalent petrol would be over £200) and the noise (the majority of my cutting will be in the garden and I don't want to annoy the neighbours).

I've used Stihls whilst out with the local wildlife trust and got on well with them. Never used a Husqvarna. I know there are other brands but these 2 are usually the ones that get most discussion. Spares for them are easy to find as well and there's a dealer for each within 15 miles of home.

Any suggestions?

I should add that I've got my cross cutting ticket and all safety gear.

Duncan

 

[Blister]

I have a Husqvarna. petrol saw

very pleased with it

re the fuel , they only hold a small amount , I empty my one out and run it dry so no problems with stale fuel :wink:

they also do 230v ones http://www.husqvarnachainsaws.co.uk/aca ... insaw.html

 

[Jonzjob]

Before it 'just stopped' did it sound as if it were struggling at all?

It would be worth making sure that one of the brushes isn't stuck, but when you take them out make sure that they go back exactly as they came out, some holder and same way round, or they will not sit correctly on the armature. That will cause lots of sparks and damage the armature.

As far as petrol saws are concerned I have a Stihl 180C and it is a great bit of kit. Very easy starting because with their 'Easy Start' system when you pull the cord it winds up a spring that lets go at the end of the pull and turns the crank. Just the job with my back and arthritic hands!

The French have the ideal safety kit when they are using a saw. Shorts and flip-flops, but we do have an excelend medical system here :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I've shown this photo before, but I think it will be OK to show again, just to see how some of the French pro gardeners protect themselves!

The difference between ripping down the grain is the same as a hand saw. You have a special rip chain. So yours being slower ripping is normal.

 

[SVB]

Hi - For info the type of long life fuel I use is called Aspen and marketed through Husquavana.

The marketing stuff claims 10 yrs life and I certainly have had no probs - saw starts on 1st or 2nd pull even after standing for almost a year. But the real plus is no oiled up plugs etc + the exhaust is much kinder to you than normal 2 stroke.

S

 

[JMcK]

I have a Stihl MS230C. Just keeps on going.

An advantage with the Stihl (don't know about the others) is that you can adjust the chain tension without having to use tools.

 

[kingcod]

My Stihl MS181 is very easy to use and quite light. I'm sure its loud but I always wear a Husky helmet with ear defenders!

 

[Thermo]

i use chainsaws in my day job. Both Stihl and Husqvarna are very good and i wouldnt look at anything else. They will last you a lifetime for the money. The fuel going off is a little bit of a falacy. i had an old strimmer up my yard with fuel still in it which had been there for 6 years. started first time! Having said that its not ideal. It can also ruin the diagpraghm making it lose its flexibilty if you leave the fuel in there. WHich ever saw you do go for, more important is the chain. Keep it sharp and sharpen it reguarly

 

[mike s]

how exactly do you sharpen a chainsaw blade?
do you have to go over ever tooth with a file?

 

[Jonzjob]

Special round files and I have mine mounted in a very simple gauge that puts the file onto the correct bit of the tooth and indicates the correct angle to file it to. Yes, every tooth needs the SAME amount of sharpening or else some do more work than others.

Edit : - Just like this http://www.axminster.co.uk/oregon-chain ... prod22855/

I've had it for years and it works...

 

[duncanh]

Thanks for the advice.

No, it didn't sound as though it was struggling although it's hard to be sure wearing ear defenders. I've taken it to pieces and the brushes were in place. Using a meter on the various connections I suspect that it's the speed controller that's broken. Might look into how much to get it repaired - Bosch have a repair centre.

As luck would have it my timber supplier has a never been used Stihl that he was given in payment for some wood. No idea of the model yet but he's after £150. Could be a bargain!

 

[SVB]

how exactly do you sharpen a chainsaw blade?
do you have to go over ever tooth with a file?

As John said. I do mine two or three times by hand to re-touch the edge back up and then tend to take them back to a specalist to get it re-ground. I never touch the limiter part of the chain leaving that to the re-grind process.

I know the above is not essential and it can all be done by hand but given the limited work I do with the saw I prefer to know everything is as it should be!

Not expensive + ensures the correct anges and equal edges are maintained.

HTH

Simon

 

[dickm]

You can get an attachment for the Dremel that should speed up sharpening no end, maintains the angles nicely and removes the temptation to "just finish the job" without re-sharpening
Or there is a 12v Oregon dedicated sharpener that you can use off your car battery if you are out in the woods. Use mine all the time.

With regard to petrol saws, Husky and Stihl are obviously the ones to go for. I've had bad experience, as has our local ag engineer, with the UK Husqvarna base over spares (seems to reflect their Electrolux ownership) but others swear by them. Nothing but praise for Stihl, but their prices reflect that

 

[tekno.mage]

You can also sharpen chainsaws using a dremel or similar multi-tool. You can buy the appropriately sized little cylindrical stones from chainsaw suppliers (I think they are badged Stihl and come in packs of three). My partner always does his saws with these now - it's quicker and the little stones last a lot longer than chainsaw files!

He also recommends Aspen fuel for petrol saws. It is quite a bit more expensive than ordinary petrol but really does what it claims and is great if you don't use the saw very often.

 

[dickm]

You can also sharpen chainsaws using a dremel or similar multi-tool. You can buy the appropriately sized little cylindrical stones from chainsaw suppliers (I think they are badged Stihl and come in packs of three). My partner always does his saws with these now - it's quicker and the little stones last a lot longer than chainsaw files!

Great minds think alike and all that ?

 

[Steve Jones]

Although I've been using an Husqvarna 136 for the last 10 years if I were buying now it would be a Stihl, mainly because I've recently bought Stihl items for my business and think the quality is better.

Also I can highly recommend the Oregon filing guide http://www.tfmsuperstore.co.uk/product. ... Guide+9821 especially for novice chainsaw users.

Steve

 

[ricasso]

with regards to the question of sharpening chains, as a professional Tree Surgeon with over 25 years experience I would just like to say that you should always sharpen the teeth to the height of the shortest tooth, which will mean that chain life will be shortened but will provide a smoother chatter free cut, with less chance of the chain snapping, as for the chain "ramps" a gauge is available but we usually give each one an equal amount of strokes with the flat file ,about two or three, I would agree with whats been said about Husky and Stihl saws, I wouldnt touch anything else