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devonwoody

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I have got some veneers ( I think Zebrano) which were given to me by a member some years ago together with other timbers.

I think there will be enough to face some 6mm mdf outside and a less decorative internally.

To make the box I want to make the panels and then frame the faces with mitred edgings.

So I have started a new jig to make mitre corners (like picture framing), the old jig I used was some cheap ply packing sheet and it doesn't lay flat any more. So using an old (1930's) laboratory laminated cupboard door for the platform. Progress so far.

jig2w.jpg


Brought indoors for the night to save from frost expected again.

The other piece of timber and dowel laying around is for that perspex freezer compartment flap I am attempting to repair.
 

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monkeybiter

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I think Mrs Monkeybiter would definitely draw the line at woodwork ON the cooker :lol:

I'd be spending a frosty night that's for sure!
 

devonwoody

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monkeybiter":3uo5r5z1 said:
I think Mrs Monkeybiter would definitely draw the line at woodwork ON the cooker :lol:

I'd be spending a frosty night that's for sure!

The first time titebond 3 has failed for me. I did not bring it indoors until around 8pm and obviously it had had too long out in the cold workshop. So the lady has got it back in this morning on the cooker again.

Very peacefull home this one.

In addition, we have been married 56 years and she has worn herself out trying to tame me. :wink:
 

devonwoody

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A good day tho. nippy in the WS., rebuilt the sliders for the mitre jig, and this afternoon it looks good, stored it in the conservatory (90far) and that should cure it.

I have prepared some black walnut with a roundover bit for the panel edgings, the vertical ones will be wider to start with to accommodate the mitre joints with wastage, then will roundover the horizontal pieces to equal dimensions.

Got out the veneer box which is stored away under some benches.



Over the years I have stored them safely like this, (with packing to keep from knocking about)



Selected enough of what I think is Zebrano.
(and some plain backing pieces)



Got out some cheap pva glue and thinned it down, pasted the first sheet of veneer



Then a piece of mdf 3mm thick.



finally a plain backing piece to stop hopefully any unequal pull.



Finally used my improvised veneer clamping system (it has worked before) and brought into the kitchen when the wife was have her afternoon siesta.



The next three pieces will hold things up a bit being done one at a time.
 

monkeybiter

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devonwoody":388ohda6 said:
In addition, we have been married 56 years and she has worn herself out trying to tame me. :wink:
Wow! I take my hat off to you [both] That's more than three times our current acheivement.
 

devonwoody

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10.30 am couldn't resist open up my press and having a look after 16 hours, I think it should be OK but will leave next ones a full 24 hours.

face side.



rear side

 

woodbloke

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DW, I don't think that stuff is zebrano, it looks more like some sort of rosewood to me or maybe cocobolo? - Rob
 

devonwoody

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Veneer, thanks above, you are also not alone in your views, the reason I thought it was Zebrano, I saw some boards at Yandles labelled Zebrano which had the same colourisation of orange and towards the outside edge of board looks entirely different, that grey brown.

So perhaps I will post a picture in General Woodworking and ask for views.

Meanwhile got another long side veneered up, and did some more work on the mitre sled and were brought in for the night to cure the glue.
 

devonwoody

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The four veneered panels are shown, they look messy but there is plenty of waste to cut away.



The sliding mitre sled is not going as well as it should.



This is one of the problems.





This came about working off the hoof so to speak. the first former was glued and screwed on and run through the blade, the second guide had a 45% angle cut and then placed against the first already in place, but as you can see it does not form a perpendicular (?) point.

However all is not lost because the angles are correct and a test run produced perfect 45% mitres. Its the cutting point that changes depending which guide is used. I can upend a mitred end and cut on same guide for the other end to avoid set up problems, but I cannot use each guide consecutively like 1 2 3 4 with a measurement stop block if doing a rectangle.

Looking back its difficult to create that perfect point without thinking about it because both guides need to cross the cutting line and cut through at the same time and still be making a perfect 45% cutting jig.

Perhaps I should have gone looking for that jig Nikki displayed here.

Edit found it here.

http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/cutt ... 45-a-6387/
 

devonwoody

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Using the mitre sled jig turned out to be a waste of effort.
Because the mouldings have already been formed I could not get a decent set to the guides when cutting mitres. I also didn't want to use metal clamps because there was a risk (because of mouldings causing instability) of a clamp coming loose and perhaps hitting the spinning saw blade.
So in the finish I roughly cut mitres by hand and finished to a decent face on the sander table.

Fitted some mouldings as per picture.

14w.jpg



At this point I usually mitre the ends to form the box, but I am not happy about getting the cut line of mitre to equal the top and bottom edges of box, so I have in mind something entirely different in the way of a corner joint.
 

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devonwoody

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I have got the panels almost ready for making the box, the panel indicated is in need of attention the moulding slipped during the gluing process so extra timber was built on the edge, to be now cut away.

Then I can start the corner jointing process which will be different from my usual mitres.

15w.jpg


BTW those veneers smell like Zebrano, someone described the smell as very similar to a farmyard.
 

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devonwoody

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Found a piece of oak (european) that had come from Yandles odds bin that they do each open day at beginning and end of summer.

I have glued these four pieces to corners of long fronts.



Later I cut of the horns using a Japanese saw I have now had for a number of years, I forget the name of this particular one (perhaps you know?) but its a good un. It cuts clean because it has no set to the teeth so you can get a perfectly clean and undamaged finish, also its sharp and has lasted well. My hands these days are getting rheumatic so I have used a sanding block to hold piece to saw board to get some hold.



Also that saw can cut off very thin slivers with ease.



Finally got the four corners glued up by hook or crook. (those picture frame holders came from a car boot sale £1 )
Even got them into the kitchen!



Took the brackets and clamps off this morning and I am pleased with the outcome. (the masking tape is holding packing pieces in place whilst those two handed clamps are tightened up)
 

monkeybiter

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I wonder if it would be any good making a bench hook with the 'fence' a little nearer for using a pull saw, with the work resting against the far side and pressed toward you? You'd probably have to clamp it to the bench, or possibly make a longer conventional one but hooked over the far side of the bench.

P.S. Mrs.MB saw the piccies and noticed the kitchen environment. :shock:
 

devonwoody

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MB, thanks for your suggestion re bench hook.

Started the cleaning up process, ( found a use for the chisel holder given me last week, the tools go back in their storeage box when finished with)



The carcass starts to look smarter after sanding and a general tidy up I took the carcass to the router table and used a roundover bit and shaped the four corners.



The box is now ready for the next stage, a lid with aperture and bottom sliders to be created.



The lid I am trying to deviate from my usual arrangement, I want to laminate a swirly stripe pattern.

I have all these waste strip pieces laying around, some for ages, I will get out the cheap pva glue and water down (the diluted glue was perfect on the veneers, in fact it was rock hard on the seepage and quite difficult to clean off)
then make an egg shape former and try to do those laminations.

 

devonwoody

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Well here goes, a laminated patterned lid for tissue box. (I might even make up some laminated boards later to make a box as well).

This is the partition that is normally released from a tissue box and I am using it for a template.



I located three different pieces of scrap to try out for a glue up frame. (one was ply packing from a supplied machine some years ago)



Used a piece of scrap oak in the end from that odd bin again and drew out the aperture needed and overall lid size plus a strip to create the shape.



Next I took the blade off the bandsaw for the first time on my new machine to replace with a 1/4" blade, lost around 40 minutes by the time the large blade was back on again. (I wished I had kept my old smaller machine, it would be handy to have two with different sized blades available)
I did a dry run using the cutout and a strip.



Next followed an hour or so of getting the strips prepared, got a kickback putting a piece through the thicknesser whilst holding the timber end, it felt just like six of the best that happened 65 years ago.



Started the lamination's but could only manage around half a dozen pieces because the pull on to the former is proving difficult for me with those rheumatic hands. So going to take it slowly and build up in steps.
(BTW never used those waste pieces laying around to create the strips, I wanted longer lengths for convenience, so now I have lots more waste bits building up)

 

devonwoody

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Those first laminated strips are pictured below.



The process begins of building up the lid, the total width is around 140mm so at around 3mm thickness per strip that's about 46 strips needed.

The next section was getting difficult to pull a section of eight pieces on to former, they went on but later in the day a third section was added but this time I found a way of getting leverage, I put in a screw on the left hand end tight against 8 strips and then pulled it over to the right and bunged in another screw quickly.





I am leaving the laminations fastened down for around 6 hours and going back to add more, however this was the temperture at 5.30pm so not suitable for glue to set, so into the kitchen again and another telling off.

 
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